Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I really need an answer to my previous postage I don't even know if my lizard is in danger or not.

What kind of alligator lizard do you have?

Regardless of species, however, the bellow should hold true.

Feeding:
Movement is usually what triggeres a feeding response in alligator lizards. For this reason, you will probably be unsuccessful in getting your lizard to eat canned crickets. Canned crickets also should not be a staple even if your lizard eats them because they are of questionable nutritional value. You would be much better off buying and gut loading live crickets yourself so that you can ensure that your feeders are as nutritious as possible. Calcium supplementation is also very important as captive alligator lizards are prone to MBD (metabolic bone disease). Rep-cal is an excellent supplement.

Mites:

This problem needs to be addressed ASAP as your lizard's life is at stake. If your lizard is healthy / of good body weight you should do the following immediately.

Set up a treatment tank. I've used the large critter keepers with the tall sides in the past. Ring the upper inside with vasaline (this will keep mites off the lid so you'll have less to disinfect). This tank should be furnished with something disposable like paper towels and an easy to clean water dish. Everyday all furnishings (paper towels) should be thrown out and the water dish and tank should be cleaned with a 10% bleach solution. This will prevent the mites from continueing to multiply.

Your lizard should be soaked for 15 minutes a day in lukewarm water, this will wash off many of the mites. Remove any mites remaining at the end of the bath by hand (check behind the limbs, in the vent, in the ears, and in the corners of the mouth). This treatment alone should erradicate the mites within about 2 weeks. I'd recommend continueing in the quarentine tank for an additional week after you have had a few miteless baths just to make sure the mites are totally gone.

An additional treatment consists of applying a layer of olive or vegtable oil to the lizard after the bath to suffocate the mites. Care should be aken to keep the oil out of the nostrils and eyes. I haven't personally used this method, but others here have with success.

Because of the extensive handlng involved in erradicating the mites your lizard may become somewhat stressed and refuse to eat. If he has good body weight he should be able to tough it out. If he doesn't set him up in the treatment tank, remove the furnishings daily etc and wait till he's gained some weight before starting the baths.

If your lizard has had contact with any cage furnishings: bake wood and rocks in the oven at 250 to disinfect them, everything else including the tank should be disinfected with the 10% bleach solution or thrown out.

Note: Each female mite is capable of laying hundreds of eggs. In a captive situation all the baby mites will then move to your lizard to feed. If the mites are not controlled your lizard will die of blood loss. Additionally, many of the commercially available insecticides available for use in controlling reptile mites were formulated for snakes and are not safe to use on small lizards; that is why I recommend the above.

Hope this helps,
Alice