Reptile & Amphibian Forums

HI IN CONSIDERING BUYING A KALATOA RETIC HERE IN UK,BUT CONCERNED THAT HES A NON FEEDER,HES BEEN WORMED,3MTHS IN CAPTIVITY,FROM WHOLESALERS,LOOKS HEALTHY AND NOT SKINNY,WONDERED POSSIBLE REASONS TO NOT FEEDING OTHER THAN WORMS.HIS VIV IS QUITE BIG HES 3FT THERES NO HIDES IN THE VIV PERHAPS HE FEELS VUNERABLE,HES BEEN IN THE VIV 3 TMHS.FORCE FED TWICE.IS THERE SIGNS OF STOMITITIS? CHEERS MARK

Well, one reason it may not be eating now is that it was force fed. I personally believe that is the worst thing to do to a snake. It will eat when it is ready. Many times with imports it takes months to aclimate and start feeding (just with import snakes in general).
Second reason it may not be feeding are the temps. Maybe the temps are too low? I was going to say because it is winter, but if it has only been in for a few months it would not yet be adjusted to the different time of seasons vs. the southern hemisphere.
Now for buying the snake? There are many snakes out there that are feeding, healthy and ready to go. I would not buy an adult snake that was not feeding whether it be an import or a captive bred animal.
Just my thought
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Brian Oakley
Phoenix, Arizona
BrianOakley@cox.net

I was typing the response while thinking about the 15' LTC in the post below yours.
I re-read your post and see it is not an adult. I still feel there are pleanty of CB, feeding snakes.......or even WC feeding snakes. I still would not buy a snake that was not feeding. The only exception would be a baby out of the egg.
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Brian Oakley
Phoenix, Arizona
BrianOakley@cox.net

First off, a 3' snake in a large vivarium with no hides??? Have I mis-understood?? A 3' acclimatising retic is better off in a much smaller enclosure, or tupperware box. Keep it warm, dark, and give it access t a damp box. Then, when the lights out put a warm small rat, and a warm chick in the enclosure and just leave it be, see what happens.

Yes, it is best to make him feel safe, content and secure in a smaller (instinctually "cave-like" cage or sweater box with low light or extended "night time" periods. In addition to this great advice this guy gave you I would suggest that you try using pre-wean rat pups and leave them in the cage overnight. Pre-wean rat pups will not pose a threat to the snake and will offer movement that the snake may be more apt to go after. If he doesn't eat it by the next day the rat pup should still be fine and can be returned to a rat mother. Since this snake is only 3 feet this should offer an adequate meal for him, especially considering that he has gone so long without food. If this works and if and when he grows you can also do this technique using rabbit pinks (or "kits". Again, it poses no threat to the snake and offers him more appealing live food to kill and consume.

I hope this helps

>>First off, a 3' snake in a large vivarium with no hides??? Have I mis-understood?? A 3' acclimatising retic is better off in a much smaller enclosure, or tupperware box. Keep it warm, dark, and give it access t a damp box. Then, when the lights out put a warm small rat, and a warm chick in the enclosure and just leave it be, see what happens.
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"If I had 365 enemies it would only take a year out of my life to settle all scores." Mia Miselfani

Hi mark 30

I live in the UK and keep and breed reticulated pythons.

I know for a fact if you wait a couple of months there will be quite a few captive bred dwarfs about.

Kalatoas only came into the UK a few months ago on one wild caught shipment. The mouth swelling you see is a very common problem with the wild caught dwarfs.

The web site Jon_G gave a link to has quite a few keen UK retic keepers, I think you would be surprised how many are here !

Login and post the same questions on the herpetology exchange web site you may find one of us lives round the corner from you.

Hope we can help

James
Herpetology Exchange