Reptile & Amphibian Forums

It's his first year going through brumation, and I'm worried because he last had a bowel movement about a week and a half ago, but he ate about a week ago, meaing he has partially digested food inside of him. He was completely brumating a couple of days ago, and I think he's going to again pretty soon, so I'm worried that the partially digested food will hurt him in some way.

Also, right now he's sort of dormant. He won't eat or poop, but he's basking again. I thought that their metabolism only slowed down when they were sleeping in a cool area? What's going on? He's been basking for a couple of days and hasn't gone back into his complete brumation mode again yet, which is why I'm anxious right now to find out what's going before he does again. Once he has a bowel movement do I just gradually turn the lights down so the basking spot is only around 90 and stop feeding him all together. Then how do I know when he's done? will he just come out or do I have to start gradually turning the lights on brighter and increasing the amount of time that his light are on each day to signal spring. He's has a pretty good view of a window to the outside, so I think that's how he's keeping track of what time of year it is, since I've kept his temperature steady all year. Can I just keep the temperatures high and let him do what he wants through winter?

Basically, I haven't found much info on whether or not they should eat or anything through brumation, and other details. But mainly right now I'm trying to figure out if it will be safe for him to start brumating again without having a bowel movement (just so you know, he's a little strange and only goes once, twice, or sometimes three times a week). What are some warning signs to look for to make sure he's remaining healthy throughout the brumation?

thank you in advance

If you do not want to breed him I would put a few hides on each side of the tank. Leave the hot end hot. If he wants to sleep he will seek out a cool dark area to brumate. But he will also be able to bask. You can offer him food every day or two. I offer mine pellets daily but don't offer crickets. I occasionally offer worms to them. I just don't like crickets they are a pain to get out. Dragons will choose what they want to do and there is nothing you can do about it. On the other hand if you want to breed them what i do is go from 14 on 10 off down to 8 on 16 off by two hours a week. I also lower temps 5-10 degrees a week until there basking spot is down to 85. The cool end is 75 and the whole tank is 75 at night. Wish I could make it cooler but I need room temps that high for the snakes. I leave mine down for 2 months. reverse the proccess and they wake up. I soak them weekly, and offer pellets daily. I do monitor their weights and observe them daily. If basking all day I monitor them more closely. Just some of my thoughts on the matter. If he has a spot that gets to 90 then he should be able to digest any of the food he eats. He is probably only taking in small amounts of food therefor does not have to defecate that often.
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Derek Affonce
DeKeAff Exotics
dekeaffexotics.com

This is the third year my adult female has brumated. She just does it. There is no preparation or changes on my part. The first year she went to sleep in November and woke up in Jan. The second was asleep in Oct and awake in Feb, this year she went to sleep Late Sept. I take my cue from her, when she goes to sleep I turn the lights to 10 on 14 off. Throughout the winter, she may wake up a few times and come out to bask. She will even take worms sometimes. But the past two years she did not poop for a few months even though she ate a little. I just leave her alone, really, to do her own thing. I really wouldn't worry, Chupa always looses some weight but never so much it hurts her. Just dont decrease them temp, I'd only change the hours of the light.
My $.2
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DogStar

"Many have forgotten this truth, but you must not forget it. You remain responsible, forever, for what you have tamed." --Antoine de Saint Exupery

Brumation is triggered by light cycle and temp, however light plays the larger role.If your animal can see any natural light chances are he will cue onto that instead of your cage light cycle.Since we are now in less than 12 hours of daylight it would be totaly natural for him to be a little inactive and want to brumate.Because he can see natural light I would suggest that you match your light cycle to sunrise and sunset as not to confuse him. You should also lower your temps slowly to a daytime high of around 80.He will probably still feed somewhat but every animal is different. Some remain a bit active, still basking during the day and some burry themselves and you wont see them for a couple of months. Remember dragons are dessert animals, nighttime and winter temps can get pretty low. As long as he is not loosing weight he should be fine. I live in NJ and 2 years ago I had a female escape in earley spring when it was still frosting overnight. I found her a week later in the AM, she was stiff and I thought frozen. I put her back in her cage to warm up and 2 days later she laid 23 eggs and all hatched.Anyway my point is they can tolerate pretty low temps without any harm.

I was starting to get worried, and I had already posted this about 3 times without any replies. So I guess I'll just let him do what comes naturally.

thanks again