Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Does anyone here have any husbandry tips on this species? What size of cage do they need, i know they are arboreal to an extent....also, anything on temps and humidity would be appreciated.

Oddly...when I looked at your question I realized I have never kept this species as an adult (I allways seem to trade them by the time their 3-4'). I have however, kept at least a dozen or two as n/bs and raised them to sub-adult size.
I start the babies of in a 5gl aquarium with spagnum for my medium. I live in South Fla so temp is not a big issue. 80-85F works well. It is naturally humid here but since my herps are in AC, (important in our hot summers)I find that daily mistings are a good idea (dehydration is a big issue with n/b). I also try to keep my spagnum moist (which they seem to prefer as they spend their days under it). I supply branches which they usually can be found patroling at night.
Most of my Boiga start out on n/b pinks. I feed on a two week schedule increasing food as needed (I do not beleave in forcing rapid growth so as long as their body weight is healthy, I am ok with this). I have found the occcasional Boiga to prefer Lizard (Gecko or anole)as first food. Eventually all have gone to mice. I have seen a few n/b that have totaly refused food and found it necesary to force feed to start them (twice I had n/b that died because they just would not eat).
Older specimens I put on cypress mulch. I still mist daily but it becomes less important as they grow.
You did not mention the size of the B.d. you are interested in. I would recomend getting an established specimen in the 2-3' range if possible. They can occasionaly be a bit nippy and there is enugh venom in a large adult to make life possibly interesting (in an unpleasant way).
Frank
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"The luxury of not getting involved departed with the last lifeboat Skipper..."

Thanks for replying...I was actually looking for a sub-adult to adult dendro...I try keeping all my snakes on newspaper as this is easier to clean often, the lack of aesthetics doesn't bother me as long as it doesn't bother the snake...and i don't think it does, ...I was under the impression that a mangrove bite was pretty painful, but did not require the urgency other venomous bites would, could you elaborate on the specifics of their venom and what a bite could possibly entail? Of course i don't plan on being bitten, but it is always best to know any possible outcomes...

You might want to try BGF's website VENOMDOC.COM for specifics on that venom. Personally; I think it is no big deal, but a large specimen could possibly inject enough to cause a problem if your sensitive to it.
I'm not a fan of newspaper in this instance. It works ok for a Boa or corn snake. But it gets messy and wet too quickly and when wet; can harbor a lot of bacteria...which is an issue if you are misting a snake daily.
S
Many snakes from more humid enviroments tend to be more sensitive to infections and Boiga d. is no exception. Cleanliness is more of an issue with them and they are especially susceptible to eye infections.
All being said....They are well worth the effort to keep them.
Frank
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"The luxury of not getting involved departed with the last lifeboat Skipper..."

Once again, thanks for the post...i keep a brazilian rainbow boa in a 55g aquarium with newspaper as substrate, and have had no problems with hygeine...the paper dries relatively quickly and the bottom of the aquarium stays pretty much dry...i do change to newspaper 2-3 times a week though, and feces are never left for very long. BRB's though are quite resiliant to blister disease, etc., so it's possible a mangrove might not be so resiliant. Any ideas on where to get a good boiga (preferable CB)? I've seen a few specimens, but they appear to be imports...also, when it comes neccesary to handling, does the hook and tailing method work with mangroves?

Right off the top...I would have to agree that Brazilian or any other Boa would be much more disease resistant than a Mangrove. Look at their natural habitats. Boas spend a lot of time under leaf litter and on the forest floor. that is a lot less clean than an arboreal snakes habitat. In identical cage conditions, the Boa is at an advantage as except for it's moisture requirements, It's a pretty hardy snake and used to spending time in closer quarters. Mangroves (while hardly fragile) require a more specialized care.

Handling is individualistic with these. Most I've seen tame to handling to the point hooks are not necessary (a very good reason to start small so it gets used to you while it is completly harmless). However...there is the occasional nippy one which the tail and hook method works fine on.

I should point out that with any larger rearfang I work with, I usually (if possible) lift from the tail first working my hands gently forward till I am supporting it. I try not to restrain the head if possible. Usually, the snake will remain reasonably calm. Frequent handling is important to keep it used to you.

There are captive born around, but the odds on getting larger than a n/b aren't that good. A healthy w/c can be tamed and still will make an excellent specimen.

Frank
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"The luxury of not getting involved departed with the last lifeboat Skipper..."