Respiratory infections, by far, have been the main ailments that have been posted in this forum. I am going to post my ideas on Respiratory Infection (RI) and the dreaded "Burm Disease". This ramble should rival BrianSmith for the longest post ever.
I do not believe that burm "morphs" are any weaker than the normals. If you look at a wild population of snakes, in this case the burm, there is enough inbreeding that happens in their own little habitat to rival anything that we have done to them in captivity. Natural selection took care of any weak genes that would cause health, or any other physical problems, millions of years ago; color morph is not a weak gene.
First off, I don't believe that any one "burm disease" exists. More accurately, I should say that any of the problems, or any combination of the problems, that I am about to explain are what get labeled as "Burm Disease".
I think that the bacteria that cause RI in burms is always present in the lungs, naturally and peacefully, until it is given the opportunity to raise it's ugly head. I don't believe that RI is air born and I don't think it is contagious...in most cases. I think that if one burm gets RI and then others begin to develop RI, it is not the case that the original burm spread it to the others. I think that the improper husbandry conditions contributed to each of the animals contracting RI, just at different times. I am sure that there are some weird viral diseases that can can be contagious and spread from one animal to the next, but that is not what I am addressing. I want to discuss the potential reasons and the most COMMON reasons that a large burm would develop respiratory complications.
I believe that there are three things that contribute to RI problems in larger burms; they are low humidity, low temps and lack of exercise. Allow me to share with you my beliefs:
Humidity: We all learned our lesson with low humidity many years ago when Brazilian Rainbow Boas, Borneo Short-tails, Bloods etc. all began coming into the U.S. If they did not have the proper high humidity, they turned into big snot balls and died. I believe that humidity requirements can be species specific and not regionally specific. For example...retics, Short-tails and Bloods all come from the same region, but the short-tails seem to be more delicate when it comes to humidity requirements, while retics seem to be more adaptable in lower humidity conditions. I think that Burms are one of those species that needs a higher humidity. I have heard, and I believe, that in lower humidity, the lungs of a burm can get dry and even crack, forming long thin lesions that are a breeding ground for bacteria that eventually gets infected and develops into RI. I have heard people recommend lowering humidity to "dry up" a RI. I believe just the opposite. I think that higher humidity will moisten their lungs and allow them to hack up what mucus has developed. Why else do we use humidifiers when we get sick? I think that burms need a constant humidity of at least 75%. I have tried to keep my snake room at a higher humidity but I was beginning to develop mildew on my walls, (which I am sure was not healthy) so I now keep it around 75%. High humidity must be coupled with fresh cirulating air. The higher the humidity with fresh air, the better.
Temps: Ideal temps for a burm are low 80's at night and mid to upper 80's during the day- basking sites around 90-95 are always nice. However; I think that burms can dip down into the mid 70's at night as long as they have day time temps that are raised back up into the mid 80's. When burms are cooled to lower temp (mid 70's) I think that their immune system becomes suppressed. With a suppressed immune system, I believe that bacteria that naturally lives in their lungs will begin to grow out of control and can develop into RI. Where does this bacteria come from that causes the RI? Like I mentioned earlier, I think that the bacteria has always been there and it is just now allowed to grow out of control. I do; however, think that as long as the burm is warmed back up during the day, the immune system of the animal will fight back any possible infection. It is when burms are kept at prolonged low temps (days) without the daytime increase in temperature that they begin to devlop RI. During breeding season, I cycle my burms down to 75-76 degrees at night and don't have a problem but I raise them back up to 84-86 degrees during the day and even give them a 4 hour basking site around 90 degees.
Lack of exercise: If you have ever done a necropsy on a large burm, you realize that their trachea and lungs span half the length of their body or more. I think that since in captivity they have no need to move around much and really don't have anywhere to go, they get very lazy. It is possible that there are areas in the deepest part of their lungs that do not get used and that can create "dead spots" where little air exchange happens and a perfect environment is created for bacteria growth; again, the bacteria is already there, it is just now allowed to grow out of control due to environmental conditions.
Mycoplasms are commonly associated with RI in burms. Mycoplasms are a bacteria that can be supressed with Tylan. I say "supressed" because Tylan is used only to stop the reproductive cycle of the mycoplasma bacteria so that the animals immune system can fight it off. Tylan itself does not kill the mycoplasma. Tylan is also available in a concentrated strength so that smaller doses can be given to the bigger burms. Antibiotics should be used carefully; they can sometimes do more harm than good when improperly dosed, i.e. renal failure. If you need to take your animal to a vet, please try to get references from a local herp society or your area herpers to find a good one that has a lot of experience with reptiles. Most vets do not see enough reptiles to really be able to properly diagnose or treat with accuracy.
I have been meaning to post this information for quite sometime and I just have never gotten around to it. I hope it helps.
Thanks for reading it!
Tom

