Reptile & Amphibian Forums

This is partly in response to Matt's post. I tried all the methods suggested and more -- flour, bright lights, water, separating cultures, etc.

I eventually decided to go a chemical route. I could not find any pest strips that did not have an odor. I consulted our veterinarian about what could kill mites by contact and not release any fumes that could affect the flies or anyone else in the house. He suggested Frontline (fripronel). It is made for fleas and ticks on dogs and lasts for a month.

I keep my cultures in a shallow rubbermaid container. I take the container outside, spray the bottom and inside sides with Frontline and let it dry compeletely. Just to be safe, I wait a day. I then bring it inside and place the cultures in the container so that any migrating mite would have to cross through the treated surface.

I have not had mites since! It seemed risky, but like I said, nothing else had worked. The flies have produced fine and the frogs are fine. There is no chance of an escaped fly bringing the stuff back into a culture since it kills any escaped flies.

Chris D.

sounds like a good plan also...I use frontline on my cats but didn't know it came in a "spray". I will have to check it out.

Thanks,
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Matt

I wouldn't be spraying chemicals around anything that comes close to my frogs, you are just asking for problems. I would try this solution first. I don't even like using cleaners in my frog room.
Go to Carolina Biological Supply " http://www.carolina.com/ "
and do a search for anti-mite paper ( product #WW-17-3115 )
It is a shelf paper that is treated for mites for Drosophila cultures.

If this doesn't work I would order new flies and place them in a different location in your house on paper or in water. And when you do this make sure the cultures are not touching each other or the sides. To get rid of mites you need to remove there food source, and by changing locations and adding a barrier you shouldn't have a reinfestation.

Benjamin Green
www.thechocohut.com
Carolina Biological Suppy

Thanks for the product number at Carolina Biological for the anti-mite paper. I had looked there before and could not find it.

However, it obviously is treated with some chemical. Since, as I said, I don't even spray in the house and the Frontline kills by contact only, I don't see a difference. Basically, I have used Frontline to create an anti-mite surface, not unlike anti-mite paper.

If there is a difference, it rests with whether the mite paper is a safer chemical overall and its cost. Does the paper say what chemical it uses? Also how long does it last? The paper might be much cheaper than Frontline, assuming it lasts longer.

I personally try to avoid chemicals with everything. I only went this route after separation did not work. Of course, separation alone can't work forever. If it did, the first infestation would have never occurred.

Chris D.

The best non-chemical method to get raid of mites, is known as "Running the mites." The principle here is to naturally get raid of the mites. Mites will lay eggs everywhere in your culture including on your fruit flies. Therefore, when splitting your cultures to make new cultures, the mites go with the flies. A dusting of powders may remove adult mites, however the eggs and mites in their nymphal stage will remain attached to the flies. The mite egg will continue to develops and then fall off into the culture between 3 to 7 days to began it lifecycle.

"Running the Mites" Method:

1. Prepare seven new cultures using about a quarter of the media normal used. Do not place any material into the cultures to add surface space such as excelsior, paper towels or filters.
2. In a 1/8 cup of warm water dissolved a small a pinch of baker’s yeast. Once dissolved pour onto the cultures just enough to moisten to top of the cultures.
3. Place the lid on the cultures and store in a warm area, 75 to 80 degrees F., for two days. It is important to store clean cultures away from contaminated cultures.
4. Number your containers 1 through 7. Place infected flies into container # 1. Make sure to store this container away from the other containers and in a warm area.
5. Allow the flies to remain in container # 1 for 24 hours, then shake the flies into container #2, and again allow the flies to remain in container #2 for 24 hours. Repeat this until you have used all seven containers.
6. On the eight-day prepare a new culture as you would normally and shake the flies from container #7 into your newly prepared culture.
7. This last culture should be free of mites. Make sure your new culture is stored properly to prevent mite re-infestation.
8. Check your cultures for the next two generations to assure that your cultures are mite free.

Just remember mites are everywhere and re-infesting is a matter of time if proper management and quarantine of newly received cultures is not practiced. I know, I’ve been there.

Sounds like a plan, but I am wondering if it might be more simple to just buy a new, mite free culture.
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Matt

Sorry Chris, I didn't mean to sound like I was attacking your method. I just REALLY want to make sure people are not just spraying chemicals around their frogs. Your method sound like it would work great as long as you do it the same way you did.

And to answer your question. The paper is treated 1% with
o-Isopropoxyphenyl methylcarbamate, which is a Veterinary insecticide, I am not sure the active chemicals in Frontline, as far as I know it could be the same ingredient.

If anyone is using either method, please remember not to place these cultures in your tanks for vacation feedings! The chemical will be on the outside of the jars!

Take care everyone and have a great Christmas Holiday,
Ben Green

Don't worry, I did not take offense. I suppose I just wanted to make it clear that I was not spraying the stuff anywhere near the frogs -- or flies, my kids, and dogs for that matter. It is probably no more dangerous than many common chemicals in a typical house, but why take the chance.

Personally, I would not have done it except nothing else I tried worked. I may, however, try the "out running" the mites idea.

Happy mite free holidays!

Chris

THe spray method seems like it's a great idea. Personally after a losing battle with mites I got the mite paper and never had a problem since.

cost might determine my method. The frontline spray is about 25 bucks and the mite paper is about 4 bucks.
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Matt

hi all, how do you know when you have mites?

are you all talking about fruit fly cultures, as i have 4 at the moment and im new to this!

someone said dont keep them near crickets?

how do i identify if i have mites in my fruit flys, and what would happen if i did :S

JOno
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0.0.3 Orange Splash Back Dart Frogs

mites look like tan or offwhite specks of dust. You can't even tell that they are bugs until you see them slowly creeping across the container wall. Once you get them, it is hard to get rid of them and they will contaminate your other cultures. If you get too many they can crash your cultures or slow production.
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Matt

but can these mites damage your frogs?

Thanks

Jono
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0.0.3 Orange Splash Back Dart Frogs

England, UK
gjuk@ntlworld.com

np
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Matt