At the top of the page linked here
www.tortoise.org/general/tntdiet.html#wilddiet
there is a table listing foods consumed by desert tortoises derived from paper in 1976.
Says the average protein (as % of dry matter) of foods consumed by desert torts is 10.5%. Of course you can drive yourself nuts with the dry weight vs "natural state" of vegetable matter (i.e. things like greens can be 20%-30% protein by dry weight.)
Anyway, it sorta backs up what you are saying about needing more than 4% protein.
But I think what is often missed in these discussions about % protein is the fact that a creature probably needs X grams of protein to live/grow/breed/etc., and if he gets it in 1 bite of high protein feed or 5 bites of low protein feed, it doesn't matter too much. It's the total package of balanced nutrition that matters. If the feed is full of unneeded fats, and has insufficient fiber and calcium, then it doesn't matter what the protein content is.
The concern I have with the canned feeds is that they are made of things that are generally not recommended for tortoise (soy, wheat, corn, etc.) because of "anti-nutrient" qualities like goitrogens, oxalates, etc. Are these anti-nutrients removed or neutralized in processing, or do they not effect tortoises in the ways we think they might, or is it that the tortioses are thriving in spite of them? (other possibilities exist, too).
A secondary concern is that the nutrient-dense, high protein feeds *might* make it easier to over-feed a tortoise. Of course a tort can over-consume on weeds and grasses, but it takes more effort to plow through a mountain of tough, fibrous weeds versus a small mound of tasty Mazuri pellets.