I would suggest Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis Macularis)
Characteristics:
The leopard gecko is one f the best pets available in the pet trade industry . They take up little space, have simple feeding requirements and comes in a multiple variation of colors and patterns. They are exciting and fiesty as hatchlings but as they become adults they become tame. Most adults can be hand fed and most like to interact with their keepers. They can be handled by children as long as they are supervised by an adult.Leopard Geckos can reach a total length of 8-10 inches.They cannot climb plastic or glass but are experts at climbing cloth.They rarely bite and are very timid.Their tails break off easily.Many of them will only use one area of their tank to excrete.
Diet:
Put mealworms in a shallow bowl with a supplement that has calcium
,phosphorus,vitamin A,D3,etc.If the gecko will not eat the mealworms
then feed it crickets in a seperate,smaller cage.Feed it a waxworm once
a month and for a gravid female,every couple of days.Put a waterbowl in the
cage and change it once a day.For hatchlings and juveniles spray them 2
-3 times a day.
Cage Size:
10 gallon aquarium for one and a 20 gallon for one male and two females.Two males will fight.Always make sure you have a lid on your enclosure.
Cage Furniture:
You can use almost anything for your gecko's cage furniture. You can purchase half logs, driftwood, or plastic cage furniture at pet stores. You can also use cracked clay pots or rocks and wood from outside. Just make sure you disinfect anything you get from outside before putting it into your gecko's cage.Include a humid hidebox. You can use a small rubbermaid or tupperware container with a hole cut out of the lid. Fill it with moist vermiculite or spagnum moss and mist it every couple of days.
Heat:
Use flex watt heat tape.The tempature should be about 90 F on one end of the cage and 80 F on the other side of the cage.The temperature can drop down to 70 degrees at night.A winter cooling period is not needed but is a very good idea if
you wish for productive breeding and healthy females.
Substrate:
You can use:
Papertowels-easy to clean and inexspensive
Calcium Carbonate Sand-causes impaction and moderetaly exspensive
Lighting:
I don't suggest that you need to have any type of UV lighting since leopard geckos are nocturnal. No harm done if you do use one.
Sex:
Sexing your leopard gecko can be a slightly difficult, especially if he or she is young. Male geckos are usually larger and heavier in the neck region. They have a line of small preanal pores on their stomach between their hindlegs which are just in front of the anal opening. They also show two hemorphial bulges at their tail base. Females are usually smaller in size compared to the males. They also lack the preanal pores on their stomach. Leopard geckos are sexually mature around 10 months old.
Morphs:
Normals, Hi Yellows, Tangerines, Striped, Jungle, Albinos, Blizzards, Snows, Patternless/Leucistic and Hypomelanistic. These are not all the morphs available.
Incubation:
Incubate the eggs in a plastic box with damp medium and little air flow.Two good incubation mediums are vermiculite and perlite in a 1-1 ratio with water(measured by weight).The tempature determines the sex of the offspring.The temp. is the following:
83-84:mix of both sexes
-a couple degees:mainly females
a couple degrees:mainly males
When removing the eggs make sure they stay in the exact same position as the position that they were laid in.
Some common problems are:
-not being able to shed(if it occurs let your gecko sit in warm water for a couple minutes)
-Impaction
-if you do not have a winter cooling period it will make the female sick
-Vitamin Defiecency
-D3 Overdose