Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I would like to build basic plywood enclosures with sliding glass of hinged plexi glass fronts for my mali uro and bearded dragon. Right now the uro is in a used tank I picked up a week or so ago, which measures 48"x13"x13", and the bearded dragon is in an overpriced tank that measures 36"x18"x25". I would like to build two stacking enclosures that would measure 48" long, 20" deep, and 20" tall. I would go with 24" deep, but with my room, the extra 4" does make a difference, and I chose 20" tall because I have trouble getting the temperatures right in my bearded dragon's tank, and he never gets close enough to the UV tube. Plus it would allow me to use a 100 watt active UV bulb if need be. The light fixtures would be on the interior of the tank and probably inside a custom built screen cage to seperate them from the reptiles.

I think the basic design of the cages would be 3/4" plywood sides, top, bottom, and back, with 2x2's running the height of each cage in each of the corners (to provide support for stacking and a good place to screw the sides together). The front would be a 3/4" litter dam, probably about 3" tall, which is where the bottom track for the sliding glass doors would be installed, or the hinges for the plexi doors. There would be something similar at the top of the tank for either the top track or latch for a plexi door. So that should give you a good idea of what I'm looking at doing. Still not sure about what to do for vents though.

One thing I'm not sure of is what to use for a sealer for the inside of the tank, and whether or not I should paint it first (on the inside and outside). I think I would probably want to put a bead of silicone on the edge of the bottom (where the bottom and sides meet) so that sand can't get through. That's all I've thought of so far though.

On a final note, I'm not quite sure if my parents are going to like this, because I just got done paying off my loans for the last two tanks (the bearded dragon's one was over $300!). I think I've found a way through this though. I was thinking I could just start with sort of a prototype. Like, buy the wood and see how well it goes together, and if that goes good, paint it, and finally install the doors and lighting. Then I'd use that for the bearded and move the uro into his old tank. Then if that works out well, build another for the uro and sell the tank? What are your thoughts on it? I figure that I should be providing them with as much space as possible, and plus, if I sold the bearded dragon tank, that would probably bring in enough cash to pay for both the new tanks. Just not sure if the parents will go for it.

I've got spring to think about it though. If I can find ways to setup the tanks I have now that would allow for good space to roam, I'll probably keep them. I just like the idea of the large cages (who wouldn't?).

-ryan

"I chose 20" tall because I have trouble getting the temperatures right in my bearded dragon's tank"

try elevating your basking spots! i have said this a dozen times here and very few seem to understand or apply it! not just a 3 inch elevation, build UP TO THE LIGHT!

check out our FAQ below about wood basking stacks. you can adapt and modify to fit your application, even use different materials, but the idea is...

bring the animal to the light! don't try and blast through a foot and a half of dead air to make temps on some lame stone on the bottom of the cage! that is why we can use 45 watt bulbs, with 150F basking spots, while others plug in 250 watt bulbs with 105F spots...

in this picture, the light is literally 3 inches above the top of the stacks...

Wood basking stacks link

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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

I like the stacks, and I'll probably use that design with my uro so I can use smaller bulbs, but they aren't really ergonomically designed for beardeds. Mine likes to bask on thick branches, and I can't seem to get thick branches high enough. Any suggestions for my beardie?

I wish I wasn't snowed in this weekend, because I actually have time to go get stuff and try it out this weekend (like the hide spots made out of the ceramic planter trays or whatever they are). But if you have any suggestions for the bearded dragon's setup, let me know. He seems to like cork bark for basking on and sleeping under. I was thinking if I could find the right size cork bark tube (the ones that are like a hollow log), and then find someway to raise it up close to the light, he would like it a lot.

-ryan

beardeds wouldn't like basking stacks? where? on Saturn?

have you tried the stacks, or are you just guessing? i think you might be in for a surprise...

a nice wide basking area that not only captures top basking temps, but greatly increases cage square footage, and allows for incremental dropping basking temps (level by level) and decent hide-ability...

what lizard WOULDN'T like that?!?

some things are like mantras- Great Lizard Information is Great Lizard Information for YOU! the species doesn't matter, just apply the theory and ideas! apply apply apply!

we could go into the Bearded forum and have ALL the same discussions about temps, soils, hide spots, soils!, socialization, all of it, it is all applicable

of course, we don't work with Beardeds, and i have a hard enough time finding enough free time to post on the forums that i already do

on another quick tangent, thin cork bark can work the same way as the stacks (although with less even gradients), and to use a cork bark tube, just get a long one and lean it up against the side of the cage, with the top under the light, because certainly your basking light is on one end of the cage, right? easy as pie
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

Ok. When I get a chance (hopefully soon) I'll get one of my parents to drive me up to get some 1/4" plywood and 2x2's and try it out. I think with my bearded dragon I'll probably have to screw all of the levels together though...he's known for finding ways to knock stuff over. But I think I could use a stack and then have a long piece of cork bark leaning up against it in case he wants quick access to the top for basking (instead of having to scale the sides or climb through the middle). For an 18" beardie, should I do a stack that's about 12"x12" and then whatever height I find best? How do I cut the hole through the center? All I have around are standard tools like handsaws, drills, a circlular saw, and a saws-all. If there's a cheap tool used to make it, I could probably buy one. I don't have ANY money right now, but my bearded dragon is brumating so i have time to get enough for a $10 sheet of plywood and some cheap 2x2's. As for Sam the uro (who I now believe to be a male)...he's still a little too fat, but he's loosing weight quickly and soon I'll be able to do a stack for him and get some sort of real substrate in his tank (I want to try dirt, but I'll probably have to wait till summer to experiment with that).

The only thing I don't like about the rocks in sam's tank is how hot they get compared to the ambient are temps, so with a stack I could get the air temp to belly heat ratio evened out a lot better.

I wish you did stuff with bearded dragons. Most the people over there right now are into everything being "sterile". At least 50% of them won't use any sort of substrate that could remotely cause an impaction, even if they don't feed the dragons in the tank they house them in. I like having an environment that stimulates the animals and is still fairly easy to maintain.

-ryan

for a beardie of that size, try 12 or 14 inch squares.

don't use 1/4" ply, just use the thin wood paneling. i get it at Home Depot, just interior paneling, the thinnest, cheapest stuff they have (that is wood), it runs about $6 a sheet. they can even cut the squares for you right there...

use a hole saw to cut the holes, make them at different spots in the square, so they don't just line up in the center. but they are not necessary, the animal can get up and around them fine without it, although i like to have them there.

use enough stacks so that the top of the stack is a nice high basking temp, say 140 or so. that would be with a 45-90 watt halogen bulb too, not some 150 watt reptile monster bulb.
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

Ive been thinking of using the retes stack you describe on youre site for a while.
I think I can get everything right, but I dont think I can make those holes in the middle (I dont have any tools).
Would it still work without the holes???
I thought the holes where what allowed for the temp gradient, without it would the temps decline too much at each level???
Im gonna try doing it without the holes, hopefully I can get all the cutting done at home depot.
What other way should I modify it if I cant make the holes???
Should I make it in steps, moving each level back about an inch or so, so the Uro can climb to the top???

Thanks Allot
Jack
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0.1 Hypo-Tang Leopard Gecko
0.1 Tremper Albino Hypo Tang Leopard Gecko
1.0 Hypo Tang Leopard Gecko
1.0 Crested Geckos
0.0.1 CB Baby Saharan Uromastyx

it will work without the holes, it will just have a quicker drop in temps as you go down through it. still great temps though, so minimal effect.

and they can climb and manuever in it just fine, you don't need to make steps or anything, i have seen lizards walk up a nearly vertical wood wall, the kind with a little wear and tear and claw crevices, just like the stacks will naturally have : )

ask your dad or a neighbor for a hole saw, even the small size that drills out door knobs. someone is bound to have one, they are very common (and cheap)...
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

Ive asked a few people for saws before, for this and other herp thing, but around my neighborhood people just dont have or use them, BRooklyn NY if youre wondering.

Thanks anyway though Im gonna try without the holes, and Ill see maybe they can actually make the holes in home depot.

Thanks
Jack
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0.1 Hypo-Tang Leopard Gecko
0.1 Tremper Albino Hypo Tang Leopard Gecko
1.0 Hypo Tang Leopard Gecko
1.0 Crested Geckos
0.0.1 CB Baby Saharan Uromastyx

I'll have to get some of that panelling. I think we actually have a bunch of it up in the rafters of the garage, but I'm too lazy to get it down and clean it up, so I'll just go to home depot next time I get a chance and get some panelling (and hope they can cut it for us, because I don't have transportation for a 4'x8' sheet of wood). I think instead of holes I'm going to use a slight step idea. Basically just the each level is an inch shorter than the one below it on one side. Then, like I said before, I could give them a flat piece of cork bark leened up against it for quick, direct access to the basking spot.

I would like to use halogen bulbs, but in my bearded dragon's enclosure there are two design flaws that might prevent me from using them. For one, the fixture is made of plastic, so I'm worried a halogen bulb might melt it? It can hold up to 100 watts, but wouldn't a halogen flood bulb get hotter than a 100 watt incandescent? Also, the fixture is in a corner, so it won't allow for a very big bulb. I think if I were to try using a 6" diameter bulb, it would be up against the glass. How big are the halogen bulbs? What specific kind are they too? I will get one for the uro's tank too, but not until the powersun bulb I spent so much money on burns out. then I can switch to a halogen bulb and small uv fluorescent or something.

-ryan

I just finished my double-decker cage, similar to what you are describing:

http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/cages.html

I made an extra shelf so the two cages are only 18 inches high. I made this myself, and I'm a chick! And it looks good, my family is very impressed!
I'll post pics as soon as I get new batteries for my camera!

Beth