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whistles when breaths, need oppinion!

marito Jan 17, 2004 11:42 AM

hello everyone! yesterday i received a free B/P, they say its about 3 years old, when i went to pick it up the snake had no heat pad, and it hadnt shed completly, they also had it in a 10gal.( it about 3 feet!!!)when i got it home, i gave it a warm bath to remove the skin! and then i noticed i heard whistles! at first i thought it was me!! but it wasnt! then i held the snakes head to my ear and it was the snake! he doesnt have discharge of any kind he doesnt seem to sneeze or bubble from its mouth or anything! should i worry? or is it normal for some snakes to whistle? the snake looks healthy and fat! but the whistle worries me! any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated!!! thanx!!!

Replies (19)

DexterPython Jan 17, 2004 11:45 AM

Take it out after it's been back in it's cage and had a chance to "dry" off completely. If the noise is still there, it could be an RI. My guy will do that from time to time if he dunks his head during a soak. Also, make sure the temps are correct and it should be fine.

dfr Jan 17, 2004 12:24 PM

` Sometimes nasal whistles are caused by decaying shed in the nostrils. I have several Boids who do this before, and during shed. I have a couple who do it all the time. An obstruction usually makes a sharper, thinner whistle than a gasping, wheezing, or thick sound from congestion. When they're wheezing, you can hear the fluid. Use a paper towel spool as a stethoscope. If it is an obstruction, it doesn't necessarily block breathing. One of my Boids will breathe through her mouth during shed. She's been doing it for years. Still, don't fail to be watchful of R.I.
-----

steve71 Jan 17, 2004 02:04 PM

i had a ball that used 0to wistle all the time.she still does when she is stressed. she doesnt like to be handled alot. at first i thought it was a ri,she postured to. but there was never any discharge but i still took her to the vet and to be safe he put her on amikacin(i dont know how to spell it)he also did a lung wash and the results were negative. at any rate to make along story short it came down to the fact that my hot side temp was a bit high and this was causeing the wistling and posturing. and when i say high i mean only 90 degrees i know alot of people swear that the hot side temp should be 90-95 but my vet said its really up to the snake so to speak. now my hot side temp is 86-89 depending on the outside temp and she is doing great.good luck.
-----
.3 ball pythons
3. felines(main coon,siamese,mix)
2. dogs botrh muts
1.1 kids karl20, jessica12
.1 georgeous wife

ASK Jan 17, 2004 07:46 PM

I say it may be a respitory infection but i cant be sure if it is respitory then increase the humidity and if that doesnt help then go see a vet I hope that your BP will be alright

jamison Jan 17, 2004 09:42 PM

why increase the moisture in the air? its like you want the snake to get RI. keep humidity low, like 50%

joels417 Jan 18, 2004 12:00 AM

Incorrect, keep good humidity and heat on a snake with RI.

May even want to run the temps a little higher than usual.

- Joel

>>why increase the moisture in the air? its like you want the snake to get RI. keep humidity low, like 50%
-----
- Joel Smith

Email Me!

oogieboogie Jan 18, 2004 03:48 AM

Umm I would check the information you got about that. I had the exact same situation in my ball python and took it to a very well respected vet near my house.

She asked me about my setup and the care i was giving it. It turns out I was keeping the tank far to humid. Ball pythons do not need a constant high humidity. (not saying to keep it low) In the wild they will constantly move from more humid areas to less humid areas. She told me to keep the tank around 65 percent humidity and provide a humidity box and let her go in and out as she pleases.

Adding more himidity to a snake with a RI will not help and most likely cause more problems.
-----
2.0 Ball Pythons
0.1 Leucistic Texas Rat
0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa
1.1 Bearded Dragons
0.0.1 Albino Ornate Pacman Frog
0.0.1 Ornate Pacman Frog
2.0 House Cats

And a partrige in a pear tree...

~!Bearded Dragon Custom Cage Design!~

joels417 Jan 18, 2004 10:40 AM

RI's come from low humidity and low temps. After talking with some experienced herpers and vets it seems as though there may be more than one kind of RI. I don't know of any studies confirming or denying this, so at this point it's at least possible.

RI's can be transmitted by contact, either with a sick snake or from you touching a sick snake then touching a healthy one without washing your hands first. If you have a sick snake, always deal with it last when cleaning, checking cages, etc... Also always wash your hands up to the elbows after handling a sick snake, you may also want to change your shirt. I'm not sure if that's going too far, but I'd rather not take the chance.

The best defense against RI's is having good humidity levels and keeping your temps up. Also, keep your cages away from drafts and air vents. Washing your hands after handling each snake is also a good idea. This may sound a little over the top, but I know one breeder who does this and asks that his visitors do the same. You might not realize that your snake has an RI at the very beginning and you could unwittingly transmit the disease.

If your snake does come down with a RI you will need to seek out a good reptile vet. These can be hard to come by. Your snake will need medication, also, you will want to turn up the heat a little more than normal. For some reason sick snakes often seek out the coolest part of their cage so increasing the overall heat will be beneficial.

Besides medication there are other things you can do to help your snake get better. Note: The following are in no way a suitable replacement for medication.

Move the snake into an enclosure that is much taller than the snake. Put something in the cage (branch, etc..) for the snake to climb on. The reason behind this is that snakes don't really have a cough mechanism like we do so by giving the snake ample room to move its body it will be able to let some of the "snot" either drain out or fall back into the lung. Either way it's keeping the fluids out of the mouth so the snake can breath.

Keep the snakes enclosure a little warmer than usual. This does not mean to cook your snake. When I have a snake with an RI I put it into an aquarium with a heat pad and a heat lamp. From some talks I've had it seems that most of the bacterias that cause RIs can't handle temps in the 90 degree range. By making the whole tank a "hot spot" you are increasing the snakes body temperature and helping to kill off the bacteria. The heat lamps do not run 24 hours a day, they are set on a timer on a 12/12 schedule.

Excercise your sick snake. Take the snake out daily and handle it for 15-30 minutes. Make it move around and use its muscles. This seems to help loosen the "snot" in the snakes lung.

--------------------------

Other ailments which commonly affect, mostly imported, Ball Pythons are mouth rot, blister disease, and respiratory infections. If you suspect your snake is ill, increase the heat a few degrees and get it to a qualified herptile veterinarian. Your local herpetological society or pet store should be able to help you find a good doctor. Mouth Rot is an infection within the snake's mouth. If you are seeing a white cottage cheese like material in the snake's mouth, chances are your snake needs treatment. Signs of a respiratory infection are: open mouthed breathing, wheezing or popping when the snake breaths, and/or clear fluid coming out of the snakes nostrils or mouth. Blister disease is usually a direct result of the snake being kept in poor conditions. Lowered, or no heat, combined with a damp dirty cage and possibly ectoparasites can lead to blister disease. The snake will have red sores or blisters usually on it's belly or lower sides, but occasionally they appear on the back. Again, if you suspect that you have an unhealthy snake, a trip to the veterinarian should be in order. An important part of keeping your snake healthy is keeping it warm and clean. I like to use baby wipes to spot clean and pick up feces. A few times a year, I break down the cages and scrub them with soapy water. A solution of 10-15% bleach and 85-90% water can be used to disinfect the cage.

www.reptilerooms.com/Sections index-req-viewarticle-artid-59-page-1.html
forum.kingsnake.ca/snakes/messages/11950.html
www.repticzone.com/forums/Pythons/messages/5782.html
www.ccbreptiles.com/ball care sheet.html
www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide/

Need any more sources?

-Joel

>>Umm I would check the information you got about that. I had the exact same situation in my ball python and took it to a very well respected vet near my house.
>>
>>She asked me about my setup and the care i was giving it. It turns out I was keeping the tank far to humid. Ball pythons do not need a constant high humidity. (not saying to keep it low) In the wild they will constantly move from more humid areas to less humid areas. She told me to keep the tank around 65 percent humidity and provide a humidity box and let her go in and out as she pleases.
>>
>>Adding more himidity to a snake with a RI will not help and most likely cause more problems.
>>-----
>>2.0 Ball Pythons
>>0.1 Leucistic Texas Rat
>>0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa
>>1.1 Bearded Dragons
>>0.0.1 Albino Ornate Pacman Frog
>>0.0.1 Ornate Pacman Frog
>>2.0 House Cats
>>
>>And a partrige in a pear tree...
>>
>>~!Bearded Dragon Custom Cage Design!~
-----
- Joel Smith

Email Me!

oogieboogie Jan 18, 2004 12:04 PM

Actually I could use some other sources. Considering I got mine from a whole slue of vetrinarians. o)

In your last part of your post you mentioned taking it to see a qualified vet. Which I have done. And I have already told you what she has told me.

When i mentioned to her my reasons for keeping the humidity high in the cage, which was that I read caresheets and got advice from users on the internet she said something like this. There is alot of wrong information floating around the internet, Information that was correct a few years ago but is now being proven wrong through studies. Not just in bp but in many other exotic animals as well. For example, its a common mistake that bp need a consstant high humidity. In reality in the wild they do not stay in a constant high humid area. They travel back and forth and move in and out of spots as they feel the need to. Hence if you have ever owned one and had ahumidity box you would know that they do travel back and forth and do not sit in the humdity box all day and all night.

As for the first sentence. RI's come from wrong humidity and wrong temps. And as you stated the best defense against a RI is having the *correct* humidity and temps. As you said there could be different types, and of course there is. So it is perfectly possible that their humidity could have been extremely low and that is a possibility.

(these are just my comments and thinkings i am not a vet. so be warned *lol*) -- And if you actually stop to think about it. Bacteria likes *moist* areas to grow in. Humidity creates the perfect chance for that bacteria to grow and thrive. Lowering your humidity levels and raising your heat levels is the correct way to combat something that needs moist temps to survive in.

So the few simple posts linked me too don't cut it for me. Especially since they were posted by users of a forum. Ims orry but I wont take their word over a handful of vetrinarians at my Exotic Animal Hospital.
-----
2.0 Ball Pythons (Kurt the Snake ~ Frosty McFry)
0.1 Leucistic Texas Rat (OogieBoogie)
0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa (NoFingers McGee)
1.1 Bearded Dragons (Saku ~ GracieJ)
0.0.1 Albino Ornate Pacman Frog (Jabba the Frog)
0.0.1 Ornate Pacman Frog (Hooter)
0.0.1 Emperor Scorpion (Still Thinking)
2.0 House Cats (Bill ~ Ted)

And a partrige in a pear tree...

~!Bearded Dragon Custom Cage Design!~

joels417 Jan 18, 2004 01:01 PM

Sorry if I am not going to waste any more of my time looking for sources for you, 1. Because you are set on the belief that your vet is telling you the right way, and is the only right way. and 2. Because I know what works for me, you can belive what you'd like.

Take care and good luck with all your RI's.

Joel

>>Actually I could use some other sources. Considering I got mine from a whole slue of vetrinarians. o)
>>
>>In your last part of your post you mentioned taking it to see a qualified vet. Which I have done. And I have already told you what she has told me.
>>
>>When i mentioned to her my reasons for keeping the humidity high in the cage, which was that I read caresheets and got advice from users on the internet she said something like this. There is alot of wrong information floating around the internet, Information that was correct a few years ago but is now being proven wrong through studies. Not just in bp but in many other exotic animals as well. For example, its a common mistake that bp need a consstant high humidity. In reality in the wild they do not stay in a constant high humid area. They travel back and forth and move in and out of spots as they feel the need to. Hence if you have ever owned one and had ahumidity box you would know that they do travel back and forth and do not sit in the humdity box all day and all night.
>>
>>As for the first sentence. RI's come from wrong humidity and wrong temps. And as you stated the best defense against a RI is having the *correct* humidity and temps. As you said there could be different types, and of course there is. So it is perfectly possible that their humidity could have been extremely low and that is a possibility.
>>
>>these are just my comments and thinkings i am not a vet. so be warned *lol*) -- And if you actually stop to think about it. Bacteria likes *moist* areas to grow in. Humidity creates the perfect chance for that bacteria to grow and thrive. Lowering your humidity levels and raising your heat levels is the correct way to combat something that needs moist temps to survive in.
>>
>>So the few simple posts linked me too don't cut it for me. Especially since they were posted by users of a forum. Ims orry but I wont take their word over a handful of vetrinarians at my Exotic Animal Hospital.
>>-----
>>2.0 Ball Pythons (Kurt the Snake ~ Frosty McFry)
>>0.1 Leucistic Texas Rat (OogieBoogie)
>>0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa (NoFingers McGee)
>>1.1 Bearded Dragons (Saku ~ GracieJ)
>>0.0.1 Albino Ornate Pacman Frog (Jabba the Frog)
>>0.0.1 Ornate Pacman Frog (Hooter)
>>0.0.1 Emperor Scorpion (Still Thinking)
>>2.0 House Cats (Bill ~ Ted)
>>
>>And a partrige in a pear tree...
>>
>>~!Bearded Dragon Custom Cage Design!~
-----
- Joel Smith

Email Me!

oogieboogie Jan 18, 2004 05:01 PM

Fair enough. But i dont know what you want me to think here. Does one trust the vet house? Or does one trust someone on a forum? And if that works for you, thats great, but what worked for me is what the vet has told me and I have had zero problems since.

Good luck with your own RI's o)
-----
2.0 Ball Pythons (Kurt the Snake ~ Frosty McFry)
0.1 Leucistic Texas Rat (OogieBoogie)
0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa (NoFingers McGee)
1.1 Bearded Dragons (Saku ~ GracieJ)
0.0.1 Albino Ornate Pacman Frog (Jabba the Frog)
0.0.1 Ornate Pacman Frog (Hooter)
0.0.1 Emperor Scorpion (Still Thinking)
2.0 House Cats (Bill ~ Ted)

And a partrige in a pear tree...

~!Bearded Dragon Custom Cage Design!~

Thomas j Jan 18, 2004 05:35 PM

My trusted vet also told me he knew how to probe a snake. When i got the snake there he tried to probe from the vent to the head. Not vet to the tail. Now all i get is meds from him and that is it. Take to Rob Carmicheal he is one of the most expericed persons on here that has dealt with RI's many times.

The high humidity keeps the lungs from drying up and getting infected. So higher humidity is best.

>>Fair enough. But i dont know what you want me to think here. Does one trust the vet house? Or does one trust someone on a forum? And if that works for you, thats great, but what worked for me is what the vet has told me and I have had zero problems since.
>>
>>Good luck with your own RI's o)
>>-----
>>2.0 Ball Pythons (Kurt the Snake ~ Frosty McFry)
>>0.1 Leucistic Texas Rat (OogieBoogie)
>>0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa (NoFingers McGee)
>>1.1 Bearded Dragons (Saku ~ GracieJ)
>>0.0.1 Albino Ornate Pacman Frog (Jabba the Frog)
>>0.0.1 Ornate Pacman Frog (Hooter)
>>0.0.1 Emperor Scorpion (Still Thinking)
>>2.0 House Cats (Bill ~ Ted)
>>
>>And a partrige in a pear tree...
>>
>>~!Bearded Dragon Custom Cage Design!~
-----
Thomas Jones
aligatorhunter@earthlink.net

No one is to be trusted

oogieboogie Jan 18, 2004 06:35 PM

I suggest you find a new vet then O)

The vet I go to specializes in exotic animals. The do not see regular animals period. Sorry to say im still inclined to listen to my vetrinarian over some joe schmoe on the internet. Especially when it worked. No disrespect to anyone here or the amount of information they have.
-----
2.0 Ball Pythons (Kurt the Snake ~ Frosty McFry)
0.1 Leucistic Texas Rat (OogieBoogie)
0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa (NoFingers McGee)
1.1 Bearded Dragons (Saku ~ GracieJ)
0.0.1 Albino Ornate Pacman Frog (Jabba the Frog)
0.0.1 Ornate Pacman Frog (Hooter)
0.0.1 Emperor Scorpion (Still Thinking)
2.0 House Cats (Bill ~ Ted)

And a partrige in a pear tree...

~!Bearded Dragon Custom Cage Design!~

symatic Jan 19, 2004 03:50 AM

I remember when i had severe bronchitis(spelling) i was told by my doctor to go in the bathroom and turn the shower on the hot temp. the room filled up with alot of steam, but i tell you what. The breathing problems went away (also i hacked up alot because of the steam). i like to share my stories....sorry about that

i usually increase temps with RI, because of the drying out idea of the lungs. most tend to heal themselves, but when you have the lungs dry out you prolong the process, just like you would see in yourself. Increase humdity, lungs do not make noise. Lower them, i hear problems. Also remember seeing a good vet is very important if the problem is not fixed.
-----
"You can't appreciate Shakespeare until you've read him in the original Klingon."

IMO Jan 18, 2004 05:43 PM

Great, you got a free ball python. Well, now that your thoroughly confused from all the posts arguing back and forth about humidity and temps, TAKE IT TO A VET. You've saved money already by getting it free, so take that money you saved and spend it wisely on good vet care.

oogieboogie Jan 18, 2004 06:36 PM

"Great, you got a free ball python. Well, now that your thoroughly confused from all the posts arguing back and forth about humidity and temps, TAKE IT TO A VET. You've saved money already by getting it free, so take that money you saved and spend it wisely on good vet care."

BINGO! Take it to the vet, dont listen to anyone here. If you do you risk your pets helth. The only one you should be listening to is a qualified vetrinarian. And try and take it to a vet that specializes in snakes or exotic animals and not to your normal cat/dog vet.
-----
2.0 Ball Pythons (Kurt the Snake ~ Frosty McFry)
0.1 Leucistic Texas Rat (OogieBoogie)
0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa (NoFingers McGee)
1.1 Bearded Dragons (Saku ~ GracieJ)
0.0.1 Albino Ornate Pacman Frog (Jabba the Frog)
0.0.1 Ornate Pacman Frog (Hooter)
0.0.1 Emperor Scorpion (Still Thinking)
2.0 House Cats (Bill ~ Ted)

And a partrige in a pear tree...

~!Bearded Dragon Custom Cage Design!~

reptilicus81 Jan 21, 2004 07:50 PM

Your best bet of course is to take the animal to the vet. However in the mean time make sure you have an ample heat source, and offer the animal a humidity box. Do not keep the overall humidity much higher than 65%. Since it appears everyone is debating about humidity, I believe you should follow some simple advice...offer the animal a humidity box that is large enough for the animal to sit fully coiled. If you use something too large most likely the snake will not go in it (they like to be in tight areas). To make a humidity box you can use a tuperwear plastic container with a hole cut out either in the lid or preferably the side of the container. Place peat moss, bed a beast, or even paper towel in the bottom of the container and wet it. This will provide an area of high humidity if the snake choses to reside there. It is inadvisable to place a snake in a tank full of humidity for two reasons: 1.) the animal has no choice but to remain in perhaps uncomfortable conditions (think about how we all advise people to give snakes a temperature gradient...this is to allow snakes to choose to heat or cool their bodies...I believe we should allow them the same justice in terms of humidity). 2.) Even though an area of high humidity help the human respiratory tract expell fluids we don't spend our lives in our shower filling the room with water vapor...we go in there when we feel like we need to! When we allow a lot of humidity to be present in a snake cage or anywhere for that matter we allow many different types of bacteria to grow! Ones that the snakes deficient immune system may not be able to handle!
Hope this helped
-----
*Amy*
0.1 Green Iguana (yes, I have a lizard in my bathroom)-iggy
2.1 Ball Pythons (normal)-cosi, jake, and frosty mcfry
0.1 B.smithi (mexican redknee tarantula)-athena
0.0.1 midland painted turtle-nemo
1.1 dogs-rocky and skippy
1.0 normal grey cockatiel-opie
0.0.30 betta, guppies, rosy reds, fantail goldfish, clown pleco,...

symatic Jan 22, 2004 01:27 AM

I agree with your humidity box decision. As you could tell my post was some what sarcastic. Mine does not often use his water bowl, but loves a rubbermaid with moss.

Just thought i would clarify..
-----
"You can't appreciate Shakespeare until you've read him in the original Klingon."

reptilicus81 Jan 23, 2004 12:39 AM

"Mine does not often use his water bowl, but loves a rubbermaid with moss."

LOL I love your terminology! My little girl can't get enough of her humidity box...especially since she shed last night and "forgot" the top of her head! LOL

Best wishes to all!
-----
*Amy*
0.1 Green Iguana (yes, I have a lizard in my bathroom)-iggy
2.1 Ball Pythons (normal)-cosi, jake, and frosty mcfry
0.1 B.smithi (mexican redknee tarantula)-athena
0.0.1 midland painted turtle-nemo
1.1 dogs-rocky and skippy
1.0 normal grey cockatiel-opie
0.0.30 betta, guppies, rosy reds, fantail goldfish, clown pleco,...

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