RI's come from low humidity and low temps. After talking with some experienced herpers and vets it seems as though there may be more than one kind of RI. I don't know of any studies confirming or denying this, so at this point it's at least possible.
RI's can be transmitted by contact, either with a sick snake or from you touching a sick snake then touching a healthy one without washing your hands first. If you have a sick snake, always deal with it last when cleaning, checking cages, etc... Also always wash your hands up to the elbows after handling a sick snake, you may also want to change your shirt. I'm not sure if that's going too far, but I'd rather not take the chance.
The best defense against RI's is having good humidity levels and keeping your temps up. Also, keep your cages away from drafts and air vents. Washing your hands after handling each snake is also a good idea. This may sound a little over the top, but I know one breeder who does this and asks that his visitors do the same. You might not realize that your snake has an RI at the very beginning and you could unwittingly transmit the disease.
If your snake does come down with a RI you will need to seek out a good reptile vet. These can be hard to come by. Your snake will need medication, also, you will want to turn up the heat a little more than normal. For some reason sick snakes often seek out the coolest part of their cage so increasing the overall heat will be beneficial.
Besides medication there are other things you can do to help your snake get better. Note: The following are in no way a suitable replacement for medication.
Move the snake into an enclosure that is much taller than the snake. Put something in the cage (branch, etc..) for the snake to climb on. The reason behind this is that snakes don't really have a cough mechanism like we do so by giving the snake ample room to move its body it will be able to let some of the "snot" either drain out or fall back into the lung. Either way it's keeping the fluids out of the mouth so the snake can breath.
Keep the snakes enclosure a little warmer than usual. This does not mean to cook your snake. When I have a snake with an RI I put it into an aquarium with a heat pad and a heat lamp. From some talks I've had it seems that most of the bacterias that cause RIs can't handle temps in the 90 degree range. By making the whole tank a "hot spot" you are increasing the snakes body temperature and helping to kill off the bacteria. The heat lamps do not run 24 hours a day, they are set on a timer on a 12/12 schedule.
Excercise your sick snake. Take the snake out daily and handle it for 15-30 minutes. Make it move around and use its muscles. This seems to help loosen the "snot" in the snakes lung.
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Other ailments which commonly affect, mostly imported, Ball Pythons are mouth rot, blister disease, and respiratory infections. If you suspect your snake is ill, increase the heat a few degrees and get it to a qualified herptile veterinarian. Your local herpetological society or pet store should be able to help you find a good doctor. Mouth Rot is an infection within the snake's mouth. If you are seeing a white cottage cheese like material in the snake's mouth, chances are your snake needs treatment. Signs of a respiratory infection are: open mouthed breathing, wheezing or popping when the snake breaths, and/or clear fluid coming out of the snakes nostrils or mouth. Blister disease is usually a direct result of the snake being kept in poor conditions. Lowered, or no heat, combined with a damp dirty cage and possibly ectoparasites can lead to blister disease. The snake will have red sores or blisters usually on it's belly or lower sides, but occasionally they appear on the back. Again, if you suspect that you have an unhealthy snake, a trip to the veterinarian should be in order. An important part of keeping your snake healthy is keeping it warm and clean. I like to use baby wipes to spot clean and pick up feces. A few times a year, I break down the cages and scrub them with soapy water. A solution of 10-15% bleach and 85-90% water can be used to disinfect the cage.
www.reptilerooms.com/Sections index-req-viewarticle-artid-59-page-1.html
forum.kingsnake.ca/snakes/messages/11950.html
www.repticzone.com/forums/Pythons/messages/5782.html
www.ccbreptiles.com/ball care sheet.html
www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide/
Need any more sources? 
-Joel
>>Umm I would check the information you got about that. I had the exact same situation in my ball python and took it to a very well respected vet near my house.
>>
>>She asked me about my setup and the care i was giving it. It turns out I was keeping the tank far to humid. Ball pythons do not need a constant high humidity. (not saying to keep it low) In the wild they will constantly move from more humid areas to less humid areas. She told me to keep the tank around 65 percent humidity and provide a humidity box and let her go in and out as she pleases.
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>>Adding more himidity to a snake with a RI will not help and most likely cause more problems.
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>>2.0 Ball Pythons
>>0.1 Leucistic Texas Rat
>>0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa
>>1.1 Bearded Dragons
>>0.0.1 Albino Ornate Pacman Frog
>>0.0.1 Ornate Pacman Frog
>>2.0 House Cats
>>
>>And a partrige in a pear tree...
>>
>>~!Bearded Dragon Custom Cage Design!~
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- Joel Smith

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