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Rack/ wood question.

symatic Jan 22, 2004 02:41 AM

I plan on making a rack using the Iris cb-110. It is a large tub that is about 39" long. I have two 321D enclosures and i would love to place them on top of the rack. The problem is i am looking for a wood that is strong enough to hold the boaphiles and tubs w/o warping. Also i am looking for a light weight material. Melamine is way too heavy!! Humidity will not be very high, but i would like it to with stand many years of use.

Any suggestions would be appreciated..sym
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"You can't appreciate Shakespeare until you've read him in the original Klingon."

Replies (12)

Atistaldi Jan 22, 2004 04:57 AM

I just finished making one out of those exact tubs actually. I followed Artfan1's designs at The Ladder Rack I had to make modifications all over the place, but I finally got a finished product. Thanks Artfan1, it's perfect. I added industrial casters on the bottom of it, awww it's not that heavy, it rolls around, even on carpet with the wheels. Let me know if you need the plans, it was a rather expensive project though. It required alot of melemine 4 sheets of 46 x 96. I decided to use the top shelf as another housing unit so mine is heated on 11 shelves. As soon as I find my camera that my year old hid somewhere I'll be taking photos.

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Violette
www.shakahnsgrove.com (Coming Soon!)
Yes I do need a webmaster.

chris_harper2 Jan 22, 2004 02:09 PM

Glad to hear you've completed your rack. Hope all of our e-mails back and forth helped more than they confused...

Did you attach the casters directly to the bottom shelf or do you have a rolling frame of some sort that the rack rests on?

If the casters are attached directly to the bottom, you really need to remove them.

If your rack consists of 4 sheets of melamine and the casters are attached to the bottom shelf, you will have problems.

In a nutshell, what happens is that the rack will start to sag around the casters. In other words, let's say, for example, the sides of your rack are elevated 2" off the ground with the casters attached to the bottom. Almost right away the rack will sag and the sides will be about 1/16" closer to the ground.

This distance will only decrease and will stress your rack.

With racks this large the weight absolutely has to be carried by the sides.

rudedogsurfrat Jan 22, 2004 05:38 PM

I am concerned because I have a melamine rack with casters. It holds 10-32QT tubs vertically. Here is a picture. Should I be worried?? It is heavy.

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1.1 Kenyan Sand Boa adults
1.1 Kenyan Sand Boa 2003
0.1 Rubber Boa
0.2 Eastern Hognose Snakes
4.4 Western Hognose Snakes
1.1 Womas
Spadefoot
Black Knobbed Sawback
Northern Diamondback
Florida Redbellied Slider
Western Painted
Southern Painted
1.0 African Hedgehog
1.0 Sulcata
1.1 Leopard tortoises
1 Pleco
2 Silver Dollars
3 Bosemian Rainbows
1 Cory Cat
1 Upside Down Catfish
2.0 Fire Guramis

uhh... I think that is it.

rudedogsurfrat Jan 22, 2004 05:39 PM

Another picture of the casters.

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1.1 Kenyan Sand Boa adults
1.1 Kenyan Sand Boa 2003
0.1 Rubber Boa
0.2 Eastern Hognose Snakes
4.4 Western Hognose Snakes
1.1 Womas
Spadefoot
Black Knobbed Sawback
Northern Diamondback
Florida Redbellied Slider
Western Painted
Southern Painted
1.0 African Hedgehog
1.0 Sulcata
1.1 Leopard tortoises
1 Pleco
2 Silver Dollars
3 Bosemian Rainbows
1 Cory Cat
1 Upside Down Catfish
2.0 Fire Guramis

uhh... I think that is it.

chris_harper2 Jan 22, 2004 08:21 PM

From what I can see on my monitor, it appears your bottom most shelf does not fit inbetween the sides like the other shelves. Instead the sides rest directly on it and the casters are moved as close to the outside of the rack as possible.

While not absolutely ideal, I highly doubt you'll have problems.

Nice rack. Did you build that yourself?

rudedogsurfrat Jan 22, 2004 11:56 PM

Yes that is exactly how it is built. The bottom piece is not a shelf.

I actually purchased this rack for a mere $100!!!!!
The guy just wanted to get rid of it. It must be quite old because they first used the old Sterilite 1656's and when they broke or ran out he re-configured the shelves to hold the new sterilite 1756's. So there are 4 old tubs and 6 new tubs. This made the rack terribly ugly since there were so many new unused holes. I spent a day scraping off the paint he used on the cut edges and ironing on melamine edging. Also I capped the holes and painted over the scrapes.
The rack has a dimmer built in and is heated by this double heat cable that winds through a routed groove. What makes me a bit nervous is that he actually used metal tacks between the double heat cable. It's like one miss and he could have a short.

Anyways 10tub 32qt rack is a steel at $100!!!!!!!!
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1.1 Kenyan Sand Boa adults
1.1 Kenyan Sand Boa 2003
0.1 Rubber Boa
0.2 Eastern Hognose Snakes
4.4 Western Hognose Snakes
1.1 Womas
Spadefoot
Black Knobbed Sawback
Northern Diamondback
Florida Redbellied Slider
Western Painted
Southern Painted
1.0 African Hedgehog
1.0 Sulcata
1.1 Leopard tortoises
1 Pleco
2 Silver Dollars
3 Bosemian Rainbows
1 Cory Cat
1 Upside Down Catfish
2.0 Fire Guramis

uhh... I think that is it.

Atistaldi Jan 23, 2004 03:38 AM

The industrial casters idea was actually another friend's idea and he insisted I attach them to the bottom of the rack with 2x4s. The happened to be rebuilding the townhouse next to me (A fire burned half of it down) so I went over and the nice guy gave me some scrap 2x4 and the castors are on the very outsidemost I could get them with the 2x4s attached to the bottom of the melemine. I'm still looking for the camera. I'm expecting the first of the 11 inhabitants tomorrow morning. I'm excited.

Violette Garcia
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Violette Garcia
www.shakahnsgrove.com (Coming Soon!)
Yes I do need a webmaster.

chris_harper2 Jan 22, 2004 08:58 AM

The type of material used to build the rack will have minimal bearing on how well it holds cages on top. That is simply an issue of getting the weight distributed to the sides rather than the top shelf.

I can't really give you any advice on this not knowing the exact footprint of the Boaphile, or if you're building your rack slightly oversize for thermostats, etc. You'll have to fabricate some simple spacer and/or cleat system to distribute the weight.

Regarding lightweight material to build the rack from, that's a tough one. I've built a handful or racks from plywood and they have worked fairly well. Not my favorite material for racks by any means, though.

I'll attach a picture of a very simple rack I threw together one day to quarantine a group of snakes. The boxes are fairly tall but do not have the same area as your Iris boxes.

The boxes in this picture are ~32" x 16" x 13". The rack is over 6' tall.

I cut the shelves from a piece of birch-laminated plywood and then cut the excess into the strips you see making up the vertical supports of the rack. I think I had to buy one 1x3 for a backstop as I did not have enough leftover for 4 verticals and a back.

But with the Iris boxes you'll need a lot more material and should have plenty of excess material for the supports.

This was supposed to be a temporary rack so that's why I limited myself to two vertical per side. Ideally this rack would have 3 verticals per side.

Also, my drill had died so when I built this I only used a couple of screws on the whole cage. The rest was assembled with wood glue and 2" nails. My plan was to go back and add screws later.

Alas, that never happened. Even with this less than ideal design, and being held together with little more than glue/nails, this rack survived several months of use, 800 miles in the back of a moving truck, and was still in one piece after spending a half a day submerged under water during a flood. The shelves swelled from the flood water to the point where the boxes would not slide, of course, but the rack was still standing.

Using plywood and the open sides and back saves a lot of weight. It does take more skill to cut and assemble, however. I highly recommend cutting dados/rabbets into the sides and back with this design. I did not but it would have made the whole project stronger and so much easier to assemble.

There are ways to build a much lighter rack than this. It involves building frames for shelves and using 1/8" material or screen over the frames. This is a lot of work and takes some skill and equipment. I do not recommend it unless one is a skilled woodworker and has access to a decent shop.

With a design like this one has to fill the gaps with styrene or stryrofoam unless to room is heated.

symatic Jan 22, 2004 11:54 AM

Thanks alot for all the detailed info. I have to really put some brain storming into this one. I now have some great info on what a can do for this project to take shape...I would love to take look at those plans.

Chris can you explain this? I'm not sure i understand what you mean.
"You'll have to fabricate some simple spacer and/or cleat system to distribute the weight."

Once again thanks...sym
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"You can't appreciate Shakespeare until you've read him in the original Klingon."

chris_harper2 Jan 22, 2004 02:04 PM

I assume you'll be building your racks so the boxes slide out length-wise (always a good idea with boxes that size).

I also assume your Boaphile cages will be sitting on the racks such that the ends will be hanging over each side of the rack. I make that assumption since your rack will likely be about 22" wide and that the Boaphile cages you mentioned are longer than that.

I'll also assume that the very top shelf of your rack will fit between the sides rather than resting on top of the sides, just like all the other shelves will.

Lastly, if you need casters you'll need to attach them to the sides and not the bottom shelf. You want the sides supporting the weight of the rack and the cage, not the bottom shelf.

If all my assumptions are correct, you'll only need to tack small strips of wood onto the very top of the sides of your rack. Make sure they are the same width as the material used for your sides.

Then the cage will rest on these spacers, thereby distibuting all the weight to the sides.

Let me know if my assumptions are not correct, and how you will actually have this cage/rack setup oriented. I'll try to tell you the correct way once I have that information.

symatic Jan 22, 2004 06:12 PM

Actually this is where the problem comes in. My Boaphiles are 36x24. I'm shooting for a rack around 40"x24"x36". I want the rack and the cages to be proportional, because my boaphile will sag if not balanced correctly. So if i rest them on top of the rack they would not be able to rest properly. I was thinking of putting the top piece of wood directly on top of the side panels, but i'm afraid this would not be strong enough. I will most likely have to place a spacer of sorts(maybe a 2x4 rectangle pattern) between my rack and the cages to distribute the weight correctly.

I'm gonna draw a picture and get a website, so i can post a pic. But see what you can visual with this.

thanks sym
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"You can't appreciate Shakespeare until you've read him in the original Klingon."

symatic Jan 22, 2004 06:50 PM

just a quick sketch..

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"You can't appreciate Shakespeare until you've read him in the original Klingon."

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