Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Ok, well, my new blood python has not eaten yet - previous owner says he ate last on January 9th. Offer him a f/t rat - he refused.

I find that he gets really testy, feisty and nippy when I go to pick him up - he hisses alot!!! I lift him up, hold him, and he immediately defecates!! Ugh. All the time. Yes, he poops as soon as I pick him up. Is this just a nervous reaction?

Should I really just leave him alot. He is 1 1/2 years old, and a Male. Once he is in my hands, he is fine, but initially he is feisty and he hisses.

Should I just leave him be for a few weeks, or should I continue to offer him food weekly?

Thanks,
ALAN

Stop handling him until he eats a few times. I might wait 2 weeks to make sure he's good and hungry. It always helps with mine if I heat the head of the rat under hot water.
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"The serpent crams itself with animal life that is often warm and vibrant, to prolong an existence in which we detect no joy and no emotion. It reveals the depth to which evolution can sink when it takes the downward path and strips animals to the irreducible minimum able to perpetuate a predatory life in its naked horror."
Alexander Skutch

Hey Alan!
I have dealt with Blood Pythons for several years and find that usually the set-up and allowing a 'settling-in" period is what makes the difference in getting a stubborn eater to finally feed.
I set up all of my Blood Pythons with a deep substrate such as shredded coconut fiber bedding,a moss bowl and two hiding logs.
The moss bowl helps provide humidity and gives the snake a place to sit and "marinate" during shedding periods,I use a clear plastic tray like sold for use under houseplants,buying the appropriate size for the snake and enclosure,filled with white sphagnum moss,the New Zealand variety.
I also find that since Blood Pythons like really tight,snug hide areas they often will lay directly under the moss bowl if it's light enough.
For a hide box I provide something snug,like a half log or simulated stone cave,think tight and snug,a hide area or several placed throughout the cage are essential in eliminating stress in the settling in period.
Keep your ambient cage temperature in the high eighties with a good 96 to 98 degree substrate temperature and your humidity should be in the tropical range of about 70 to 80 percent.
Now the most essential part is to not handle your Blood Python until it has broken it's fast and ate a few good solid meals,when I'm settling in a new one I generally won't hold them until they've established a feeding schedule,sometimes they can hold out for awhile,particularly if they feel hassled by too much handling or being gawked at.
In realy picky feeders I will tape newspaper around the cage for added security so they can't see me approaching the cage.
I just bought a new baby Blood Python recently (I have several already) that was farm raised and imported and she ate directly the week after I bought her,which i attribute to a good set-up and the hands-off policy.
Anyways,I hope all this helps,I don't know how your Blood is set up right now but find generally set-up makes all the difference with these great snakes.

StormyHall