Reptile & Amphibian Forums

How close would be too close with a 24" Vitalight or Reptisun 5? I have a spot where this Anole loves to hang out for a time that will be only a couple of inches from the bulb. Can they be damaged that close? If so, what would be a better distance?

Andy

I just recently joined the Yahoo Group for UV meter owners (even though I am not one - I only wish!). Someone this last week was talking about UVB emitting fluorescents like the Reptisun actually emitting small amounts of UVC (bad stuff) at very close ranges. I have no way of checking this, but just to be safe, I would go for more like 6" instead of 2 or 3". Can you lower the object away from the light? Or raise the light a little?
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Torey
1.1 Uromastyx Geyri (Joe and Arthur)
1.1 Anolis Carolinensis (Bowser and Leeloo)
1.0 Betta Splendens (Mr. Miagi)
0.0.2 Sunset Dwarf Gourami
0.0.6 Bloodfin Tetras
0.0.2 Corydoras
0.0.2 Aquatic Frogs
1.1 Felis Domesticus (Roscolux and Jenny)

Howdy el toro,

Yes, I can raise this fixture plenty. It adjusts very easily. I also grow a couple of dwarf succulent plants from Africa under it (I have lots of other ones too but on other tables) but I guess I can raise them up so their distance away doesn't change. The set up won't look as nice but I sure don't want to fry this anole's brains or anything.

Thanks,
Andy

The Vitalite doesn't emit enough UVA/UVB or UVC to be dangerous. The Repti-Sun 5.0 most likely doesn't either. I have mine on a Critter-Cage using the mounts that come with it (about an inch from the screen). The screen top of the enclosure will absorb and deflect a good portion of the emitted UV. If you are using a glass top, as much as 90% of the UV will be absorbed.
In any case, the UV will only penetrate about 12" into the enclosure.

I just think I have this one piece of cork that she perches on too close to the top. It wasn't intended for her to use that spot of the cork but they always have their own ideas about these things. If I move that and raise my light a bit, it should be OK.

Regarding these lights. It's hard to know what is accurate. You read at Kingsnake (A lanolis) That Vita Light is one of the 3 recommended and then you read here (Link below) That Vita Light doesn't emit any UVB at all. Who knows anymore.

Andy
http://coloherp.org/careshts/lizards/griguana.php

There are some who don't use UVA/UVB fluorescents at all. They supplement with calcium at almost every feeding. I still think the best solution is to get a reputable UVA/UVB light (i.e., Repti-Sun 5.0) and use calcium supplements once or twice a week. If you use lighting, make sure they get about 12 hours a day. I find an appliance timer very helpful.

Unfortunately I doesen't know anthing about the Vitalite, since I never have seen it before here in the Netherlands, and also never had read anything like the UV productions of it.
But, I can help you further with the UV-production of the Zoomed Reptisun 5.0. I don't know were you got this information it would almost give non UV, but this isen't true. From an distance from 30 cm this lamp still gives 20 µW/cm² UVB. Needed is atleast 1 µW/cm² so the animals can make there D3 to use there Ca. About 20 mJ/cm² a day should be enough to let the body make D3. So, just say there would be still 1 µW/cm² at the bottem of the enclosure, and you lighten your animal about 12 hours with the RS 5.0 would mean: 1 µW/cm² x 12 x 3600 (1 hour) = 43200 : 1000 (1 miliJoule is 1/1000 of an Joule) = 43.2 mJ/cm². So more then enough.
Since it's know that animals like Uromastyx haven't got problem with 60 µW/cm² (Zoomed powersun at 30 cm distance), you can asume your anole will also haven't (even not because he is not an desert living species). Valve's messured at Reptilia, the Netherlands.
Glass indeed filters almost everything of the emitted UVB (4 mm glass 97,6% and 35% of UVA).

Regarding if it's needfull to provid UVA and UVB I only can say yes. I know it's possible to provid enough D3 to the diet of the animals to make sure the will take Ca enough, but then you miss the main idea of UV. As lots of you perhaps may know reptiles and amphibians see much more of the full spectrum then we do. The can see from deep into the utraviolet to far in the infrared. Make them seeying this you can imagin the see a totaly differant world like we see it. It is know, and especially in Anolis (since the are the once it tested with), that the need the full collor spectrum to comminicate. Means, without these light you disturbe there natural behavior. So, UVA is deffenitly needed for them. Knowing UVA emitting lamp also produce UVB a liqued providing of D3 isen't real needfull anymore.

Yann Horstink
Arnhem, the Netherlands
ACG Participant Administrator
http://come.to/anoliscontactgroup/
YannHorstink@hotmail.com

Actually, I only read that the vita light didn't emit any UVB (not sure if that's true though), not the Repti Sun 5. Maybe that was just a misunderstanding in my post.

I have pretty much decided (unless anyone has other ideas) to go with the Repti Sun 5 at about 5 or 6 inches from the top and maybe lower that piece of cork that is way up at the top.

The only thing left for me to decide now is, with this setup, should I eliminate all D3 or still use some sparingly.

Thanks for all the info everyone. I remain open to any further suggestions.

Andy

Andy,

Actually, I only read that the vita light didn't emit any UVB (not sure if that's true though), not the Repti Sun 5. Maybe that was just a misunderstanding in my post.

I think so. The Reptisun 5.0 is an great UVA and UVB emitting lamp. With his UV-production he's deffently one of the better ones.

I have pretty much decided (unless anyone has other ideas) to go with the Repti Sun 5 at about 5 or 6 inches from the top and maybe lower that piece of cork that is way up at the top.

It's a good choice. Two other good choice would be the Compact serie from Arcadia (reptile and bird). Both provid more UVA and UVB then the ZM RS 5.0.
Anyhow, if you want to obtain the ZM RS 5.0 just lay the lamp on the topscreen of your enclosure (not above the glass; only above ventiation parts (gauze)). The animals may each the lamp that far so the can't touch it. Since anoles make use of their third eye (photoreceptive) the will know howlong the need to be exposed to the givin sunlight.

The only thing left for me to decide now is, with this setup, should I eliminate all D3 or still use some sparingly.

I should says it may be depending on the egg production of the female. If she isen't it's no problem to forget misting with liqued D3. If she is highly productive (up to 30 eggs a year; much seen in captifity since most haven't got a 'egglaying-seazon' (mostly an disturbed biological life)) then I should say yes. Otherwise, just keep on misting the enclosure once in the two weeks with D3. I also do this without any problems (reason, the species I keep are productive and the UV-production of the lamps will get less, the longer the use of the lamp).

~Yann

Yann Horstink
Arnhem, the Netherlands
ACG Participant Administrator
http://come.to/anoliscontactgroup/
YannHorstink@hotmail.com

Well, I went with the Repti Sun 5 because I found it at an online store that had some other things I needed. I have calcium carbonate without D3, Herptivite without D3 and some calcium carbonate tablets WITH D3 that I take which I can grind up and use sparingly (every other week maybe)like Yann mentioned. I can adjust this light at almost any height I want so I should be all set. Thanks for all the great info everyone. I'll keep you posted on how she is doing.

Andy