Reptile & Amphibian Forums

And also any other data (numbers) available about them. Like number of animals by space available in the cages.

Also guinea pigs and gerbils if possible.

That is because I use to replace the breeders when I notice a clear sign of low output, but this sistem is not worth.

And BTW a pic of a new rat breeding sistem that I am developing, I am trying to make it as "free labour" as possible and I am working with industrial rabbit cages as base. We are working open air but it will go under roof.

Thanks.

1. I usually go ahead and retire at about 6 months. I set up a tub, then when I get the first litter I mark a date for that tub. At about the 6 month mark I retire the male from that tub and leave several pups to mature in with the females. 4-5 weeks later, after the females have dropped any pups they were carrying, I retire the females and all the jueveniles but 1 male and3 females that become the new colony.

2. I use cement mixing bins for rats (I'll attatch a photo) I run 1.3 in these. I use lg cat litter pans for mice, I run 1.5 in those.

3. I know nothing about ginea pigs or gerbils. Maybe someone else can help.

4. I can't really tell from your photo, but it looks maybe like you are trying to build a cage on a wire bottom like for rabbits? If thats the case~ bad idea. Rats will get "Bubble foot" they can not tolerate a wire base like rabbits can.

Hope that helps some.

The disease rats get from wire floor cages is bumblefoot.

Guinea pigs are not always the best thing to breed as feeders. They tend to have small litters, 2-5 is the average range. It takes about 60 days for gestation but come out fully furred and eyes open and can eat solid food almost immediately but should remain with their mother for 2-4 weeks. It takes them about 4 months before being full grown.

Buying guinea pigs for breeding stock can range from $10 to $30 (Canadian) depending where you get them. They also need alot more space to be happy, as much as 7 square feet per single guinea pigs, with a square foot added per additional guinea pig. You can keep them in smaller pens but they won't be as happy. Also, they poo alot and are vocal, much more than mice or rats.

Don't know anything about gerbils though others have used them as feeders for snakes.

Thank you very much to all replies.

Regarding wire mesh bottom I have been with this system for some months, not exactly the same cages but others cheaper, and I never saw any problem with the rats feet. This could be because 50 - 70% of the wire mesh is covered with bedding material and only the area for drinking and popping is clean. So this helps in keep the cage clean and dry, but of course not all the rats poops in the same corner, but most of them do. It works fine for me.

In the past laboratory wire mesh cages for rats were more common, as you can see in the book "The UFAW handbook on the care & management of laboratory animals" page 313. BTW this book is a "must" for anybody interested in animals in captivity (not only rodents, and not just for the lab technical).

Gracias amigo.

JM - Canary Islands

rats:

They can be bred until they start giving small litters (under about 8-10 kits, consistantly) are inconsistant in giving litters, or are about 1.5 years old, some even can go up to 2 years as a breeder.

GP's give REALLY small litters, and need TONS of space.

Gerbils can only live in 1.1 situations, and give really small litters also, about 5 every 3-4wks. And once you get a snake on gerbils it is really hard to get them switched to anything else. They are addicting to snakes.

On the wire mesh. The shape of their back feed make it really rough when they are on wire. They DO get bumble foot if you keep them on it.
As for space. I am keeping 1.2 in a 10 gal rubbermaid (about 20"L by 10"W by about 10"T.

Here is a link of a Professional rodent breeding cage.....and it's dimensions are 18Lx14Wx8T And you can keep a 1.2 group in this......
http://www.bigappleherp.com/Reptile_Supplies/Product/Big_Apples_Professional_Rodent_Cage_110100.html

I as I said use rubbermaids for my "mini" colony. I cut out a large square in the middle, bolt hardware cloth to the top, make a drop down basket, attach the basket with wire ties (no they don't chew them) put the water bottle down in the basket, and put the food in the basket (make sure it's low enough for any babies to reach, but not so low that it touches the floor)
No escapees, no chewers. Just make sure the rubbermaid has no lips that they can get a hold of.
-----
1.1 Ball Python, 0.1 motley amel corn, 0.1 western hognose