I'm just going to throw my two cents in, can't answer the mealworm and silk worm questions though! I work a pet store, so getting buggies for my girls isn't a problem and pretty cheap...anyway here I go.
>>I'm sold on getting a leopard gecko as my first lizard. I've been reading books, caresheets, posts, etc. and still have a few questions:
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>>1) Am i correct that insects should be both gut-loaded and supplement added?
Yeppers! Especially for younger geckos. Gut load at least 24 hours before you feed your leo, and supplement (dust) them 3-4 times a week for younger ones and about 1-2 times a week for adults/older leos.
>>2) Some of the books I read said to use a calcium supplement free of phosporous every day to e/o day for young and 1-2 times a week for adults. They then said to use a vitamin powder (not on same day as calcium supp) 1 time a week. Is this accurate information? I've found some calcium supplements that I can use, but what are some of the vitamin powders available?
I recommend the t-rex brand sandfire leopard gecko supplement. It's made specifically for leos and I only use it. Also there was a post a few days ago and a few other people also mentioned they use this product and only this product. It's wonderful stuff, just kinda hard to find in petstores. I know Petco carries it, and you can order online from them.
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>>3) What are some possible/good substrate to use?
For younger leos don't use sand. Compaction can happen, kinda icky. Some people say use paper towels or newspapers, mainly for easy clean-up. I'm not such a fan of the newspaper because they really can't get much traction. For my babies I've started them out on "lizard carpet" or that astroturff kinda indoor/outdoor carpet. It cleans easy, at least the indoor/outdoor stuff does, and it's inexpensive. The biggest thing to look for is something they can't eat, they can walk on with no problem, and there are no loops in the carpet if that's what you're looking at. They can get the loops caught around their toes, lose circulation, and the toe ends can fall off, not fun for the leos.
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>>4) I read the thread below on raising mealworms. Do they smell?
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>>5) Anyone have info on raising silkworms? And again, do they smell?
Can't help! Sorry! I'm sure someone else can.
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>>6) When are leopard geckos considered adults?
Uhh, at least a year? Anyone have an official age? I generally say when they are full grown they are adults. And depending on care, about of food, quality of food, stuff like that, that's how fast they will grown. But since you said you have snakes you know a little about that already.
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>>7) I've read some problems that can occur with crickets left in the tank and about how you should/could leave a piece of fruit in the tank for the crickets. I'm concerned about this as based on the setup/deco I'm planning there may be plenty of places for crickets to go. Does anyone feed crickets in a separate container? Am I being too paranoid or will adding the fruit really help with that?
Okay. Yes there can be problems, especially with younger ones, with crickets being left in the tank for long periods of time. A few things can happen. First, after about 24 hours, all that gutloading you do it's going to start being used up by the cricket and then they aren't quite so nutritious for your gecko. Second, when they get hungry they like to eat at your lizard. Similar to if you left a mouse/rat in a cage with a snake and the snake wasn't hungry right away. The prey gets hungry, and can munch on your gecko. You can leave pieces of apple or potato in the tank for the crickets, but if they won't be in the tank more than 24 hours (so if there are extras remove them) then it won't be such an issue. Crickets will hide no matter what, they're sneaky like that. What I do is there are a few places I know they hide, so I just go in and move them. Eventually they will get eaten, or they'll die hiding. Generally though, they will leave their hiding place because they are hungry and your gecko will most likely find them then. I did try once to feed my first leo in a separate container. She ate a few, but wasn't too thrilled with the idea of being moved back and forth. Babies don't seem to mind it to much, but my first was 3 or 4 months old when I got her so she didn't like it. You're not being paranoid you're being a new parent!
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>>8) How long is the shedding process and what are all the signs?
Again, you said you've had snakes so you know a little. Leos sometimes even shed so quickly you won't notice until the next morning when there is some shedding in the tank. My first did that so many times I was actually missing the whole process. What happens in the leo skin starts to get pale looking, as the dead skin on top gets whiter the sooner they will shed. Sometimes you have to help them get all the shedding off, but most of the time they're fine. That's why you need a humid hide for them. The humidity will help get the skin off faster. Also soaking them for a few minutes in warm (not hot) water will help get skin off.
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>>9) Is shedding stressful for leos as is for snakes? Should they not be handled while shedding?
That I also don't know. I don't believe it's quite as bad as for snakes, because I know how nasty snakes can get. Honestly when I notice my gecko shedding it's normally right toward the end so handling them never happens. The shedding process doesn't take (or shouldn't take I should say) as long as for snakes. It should be no more than a day and a half to get all that skin off. After that you may need to help.
I hope I helped! I know other people will say other stuff, but these are my recommendations!
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All my girls are here. I'm a dork with a website of my geckos, but hey!
http://homepage.mac.com/chuutena/PhotoAlbum2.html
-Kristen!
aim: chuutena@mac.com (yeah it works)
Proud user of my Powerbook G4!
