Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I've had my gecko for four years, when I got him they told me he didn't need a UV light just a basking one. He hasn't been eating lately and I was just told it's because he needs a new UV light, as well as the basking light he already has. There is quite a bit of non-direct sunlight in the room he is in, wouldn't this be enough? At the pet store they also told me that the calsium sand in his cage is 100% proven not to cause impaction and that it acctually decreases it. I asked them about it because that is why I thought he stoped eating. I don't know anymore, there are so many views, I just want my little buddy to be happy again. Thank you for any resonses

I really hate to see posts like this. Not because you are asking a question, but mostly because of the debate it sparks. First off, I think 95% of the people on this forum (well, the ones who actually know what they are talking about), will say they do not need UV lighting. I use them on my tanks, but that is because I have live plants, not for the leos. Mine don't come out enough during the daylight hours to get any of the UV benefits anyway. Most books will tell you the same, because of the fact that they are nocturnal animals, UV isn't needed. I also think most would tell you that a basking light isn't needed either, just a UTH. Anyway, just my 2 cents. Secondly, as for the sand and impaction... I have tried many sands, and to this day I use Reptilite by Carib Sea, and there are those folks on here that will say we are crazy for using sand as a substrate, however, I will say, there is not a single sand substance that I know of that can guarentee 100% against impaction, not a single one, and I work in the pet industry. I can tell you to stay away from Glow in the Dark and colored sands. The GITD contains high amounts of phosphrous which is bad for the lizards, and the colored sands will dye your leos.

That said, you may want to consider these solutions to your leo not eating. Perhaps the room temperature (or more specifically the tanks belly temperature) has dropped enough to cause the leo to "hibernate", during which they won't eat as much, or that perhaps they are reaching maturity during which they will also slow their eating.... Either way, I wouldn't worry about it just yet. Hope some of this helps..

Jeff

Thank you it does help a lot, it saved me $50 for a new light set-up. As for the sand it is kind of an orange colore, I don't know if you meant the bright colored ones like blue. He has an underheating pad and the temp is about 85-90. I think it is getting pretty serious he has only eaten one mealworm in over a month. However, he still looks healthy and has energy. Except he has become rather lathargic and somehow managed to get a big cut on his tail today.

Well, I don't know too much about the cut on his tail, but the eating I still wouldn't be concerned about. I am changing my female enclosure about every 6 months to give them larger, more managable quarters as I expand my colony. They usually take about a month to adjust during which a few will eat like mad, the others just kinda take a break... if their tails are nice and plump, I really wouldn't get too worried yet. As for the orange sand, just be wary, check your leos underside occasionally, I do know that MOST of the colored sands other then natural will stain the skin.

Jeff

Thanks again, it's a relief to have someone say not to worry about it. His tail is huge almost as big as the rest of him.

Leopard geckos are nocturnal. They do not come out in the daytime except for short periods. Their eyes and skin have not adapted to UV rays. They need a photo cycle, meaning they need to know when it is daytime and when it is night time, but they do not need any special lighting.
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Marcia McGuiness
Golden Gate Geckos
www.goldengategeckos.com