Like Rob, I do not manipulate heat or light cycles to get them to breed. They are happy little geckos that have no problem figuring out when it's time to start and time to stop. Around Christmas, I start hearing tails rattling, and by right about now is when the constant sound of 9 breeding groups' tails going permeates the entire place constantly!
I feed the girls daily while they are egging, give them about .5cc of Neocalglucon every week, and a pinkie after every clutch gets laid. I watch for signs of stress or injury from the mating process, and if I see anything like that I remove them from the colony and let them have some R&R for a week or so. Likewise, if they start showing signs of noticeable weight loss, dull skin, lethargy, and loss of appetite.
Right after breeding stops, a few of them might look a little haggard, but the vast majority of my girls do not lose more than about 8 grams of their pre-season weight. During the 3-4 month rest period, they are fed and supplemented well, and given occasional waxies, butterworms, and a pinkie now and then.
I am very attentive when it comes to the health of my females, and getting/keeping them in optimum condition throughout the year is the key to successful breeding IMO. It concerns me when people are in such a hurry to breed that they will risk the health of their females by breeding them when they are too young. I think the ideal age for a female to start breeding is after they are at least 18 months old and weigh over 50 grams.
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Marcia McGuiness
Golden Gate Geckos
www.goldengategeckos.com
