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A few questions.........(Russian Torts)

Nykole Feb 08, 2004 04:07 PM

Hi everyone!
Im planning on buying a Russian Tort this spring/summer and I have a few questions that I havent been able to find on a caresheet.

Are there any reputable RT breeders that any of you know of? I have only seen imported Russians and Id perfer a CB if possible.

During the winter(Before its ready to hibernate), there arent very many fresh vegatables available so I was wondering if it is possible to freeze fresh vegatables for winter without them losing a great amount of nutritional value?

Also it gets too cold for a tort to hibernate outside so it is possible to hibernate a RT in the refridgerator, isnt it?

Thanks in advance,
Nykole

Replies (12)

brad wilson Feb 09, 2004 10:32 AM

Im planning on buying a Russian Tort this spring/summer and I have a few questions that I havent been able to find on a caresheet.

In case you haven't seen it, try www.russiantortoise.net

Are there any reputable RT breeders that any of you know of? I have only seen imported Russians and Id perfer a CB if possible.

Don't know about that one

During the winter(Before its ready to hibernate), there arent very many fresh vegatables available so I was wondering if it is possible to freeze fresh vegatables for winter without them losing a great amount of nutritional value?

I see no need to freeze veggies. Russians eat mostly broad-leaf weeds, and those would probably disintegrate when frozen.
You can use grocery greens and maybe canned foods to get through the winter. For example, things like collard greens, endive, dandelions, spring mix, etc. from the grocery store are OK. A lot of us use Mazuri tortoise chow a couple times a week, too. The greens need a little extra calcium (D3 too if tortoise is indoors), and sometimes a little multi-vitamin powder.

See the russian tortoise page (above) for details on diet.

Also it gets too cold for a tort to hibernate outside so it is possible to hibernate a RT in the refridgerator, isnt it?

Some people hibernate in refrigerators. It takes some preparation to get the setup right. I hibernate mine in a corner of my basement where it stays in the 45-60F range. It also appears it isn't necessary to hibernate them.
Link

Sohni Feb 09, 2004 11:05 AM

I'm trying to figure out the best way to hibernate my tortoise next winter. My garage stays at about 40-55 degrees, but I'm concerned that may warm up too much.

Thanks for any information you can give me.
-----
Sohni
Northern California

0.1 Baja de L.A. Rosy Boa
0.1 Okeetee Corn Snake
1.1 Rubber Boas
1.0 Leopard Gecko
0.0.2 Hermann's Tortoises
plus my kids' herps:
0.0.1 California King Snake
1.0 Mexican Rosy Boa
0.1 Leopard Gecko

brad wilson Feb 09, 2004 02:35 PM

There is a corner of my basement (which isn't fully heated) that has a storage space built into it. Inside the temps get below 60F around late november, drop down into the 40s thru January/Feb, rising back up into the 60s around March. The lowest temp I've recorded there is 43, so they are in no danger of freezing. Outdoor temps here can get below zero at night in the pits of winter.

By October/November my torts are indoors all the time. I feed them until mid-november, then I start reducing food/light/heat.
I give them several soaks a week during this time.
They eventually stay in their hide spots all the time, usually late November/early December. If the temps in the corner are below 60F, I place the torts in ventilated rubbermaid boxes with slightly dampened newspaper. I check on them every few weeks, adding a slight bit of moisture to the newspaper if it is dry. I will weigh them during these checkups and examine them for signs of illness.

NOTE: Others recommend that you hibernate your torts in a completely dry setup. I did that last 2 years and noticed the torts were losing weight all the time. This year I made the newspaper just slightly damp to provide some humidity. They haven't lost any weight, and show no signs of respiratory problems from the slight increase in humidity.

I pulled my 1.5 year old out of hibernation after 60 days, just to be safe. He had lost no weight since the first day of hibernation, but has put on about 20grams in the last week.

I'll pull the adults out after about 90-100 days if the temps stay below 60 and they remain inactive.

This is my 3rd (or 4th?) year of hibernating torts, and all has gone well with some modifications of the above method.

My torts have laid over 20 eggs in the last 3 years, but have produced only one fertile egg that later hatched. I don't know what the problem is, other than I have only one male and maybe he isn't motivated enough.

Sohni Feb 09, 2004 02:44 PM

When did you start hibernating your little one (Gustave, I think?)? How long did you hibernate him the first time? Finally, do they still stay asleep even when the temps hit as high as 60?

Thanks so much for your help.
-----
Sohni
Northern California

0.1 Baja de L.A. Rosy Boa
0.1 Okeetee Corn Snake
1.1 Rubber Boas
1.0 Leopard Gecko
0.0.2 Hermann's Tortoises
plus my kids' herps:
0.0.1 California King Snake
1.0 Mexican Rosy Boa
0.1 Leopard Gecko

brad wilson Feb 09, 2004 03:38 PM

This was the first year I put him into hibernation. He'll be two on May 30th. I terminated the hibernation at 60 days to be safe. He was 4" and about 225 grams during hibernation.

The torts are sluggish at temps of 55-60. Once the temps are on the rise and near 60, I find it's better to let put them into their indoor enclosures.

Sohni Feb 09, 2004 07:06 PM

np
-----
Sohni
Northern California

0.1 Baja de L.A. Rosy Boa
0.1 Okeetee Corn Snake
1.1 Rubber Boas
1.0 Leopard Gecko
0.0.2 Hermann's Tortoises
plus my kids' herps:
0.0.1 California King Snake
1.0 Mexican Rosy Boa
0.1 Leopard Gecko

EJ Feb 09, 2004 03:41 PM

How long have you had the animals? It sounds like you have a fantastic setup and method. I found that it can take up to 3 years or more for a group to stablize and start producing good eggs. You also might look at your incubation method also.
-----
Ed
Tortoise_Keepers-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Trying to keep the fun in Chelonian care

brad wilson Feb 09, 2004 04:00 PM

These animals have been together about 3 yrs.

Would poor incubation make eggs appear to be infertile?

I'm getting either the one hatchling, or complete and utter duds. No sign of development. Nada. Zip. Zilch. Just smelly yolks with no veins, etc.

The hatchling came from a batch of 3 eggs, the other two showing no development.

EJ Feb 10, 2004 10:24 AM

The incubation technique can cause the eggs not to 'chalk up'and look fertile. I found that if you keep them dry for a day or 2 before placing them in the humid incubation medium they chalk quicker to where you can tell almost right away if they are probably fertile.
-----
Ed
Tortoise_Keepers-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Trying to keep the fun in Chelonian care

brad wilson Feb 10, 2004 11:09 AM

If I understand you correctly, you are saying that the technique you mention only enhances the ability to determine if the egg is fertile, but probably has nothing to do with increasing the odds of hatching?

You may be right about my group needing 3 years. I've had two of my three adults for 3 years now, and another for over 4 years. The male and female I've had for three years were maybe a little undernourished when I first got them, and the female I've had for over 4 years just reached sexual maturity last year when she produced a couple batches of eggs.

I'm going to enhance the calcium content of the soil in their pens this year, and try to plant some clover and weeds. In addition, I'll up the calcium content of their regulary feedings, and use a little more multi-vitamin. I use Mazuri a couple times a week when they are indoors, and then once a week (coated with extra calcium) when they are outdoors.

Maybe this year things will go better.

EJ Feb 10, 2004 02:48 PM

I don't know if it is an indicator or if does something to enhance the odds of it developing. Before you can tell your fertility rate I would think you have to know what the rate is to begin with. I seem to think the first few days of development are important and the chalking is the first major step or indicator. Whether it has anything to do with the fertility itself or not... I don't know.
All you can do is try different things and see what happens. The problem with tortoises is time (they seem t respond to everything slowly) and that it just might be a matter of time and if you try and zip through different things you might miss what you actually need.
-----
Ed
Tortoise_Keepers-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Trying to keep the fun in Chelonian care

brad wilson Feb 10, 2004 03:06 PM

gibble gabble

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