Reptile & Amphibian Forums

My fiance, Cliff, it going to build me a snake enclosure. I just wanted to describe it here and make sure it sounds ok. We are going to build something like a bookshelf with 3 shelves (3 snakes) but with no back. Then we will have 3 large Rubbermaids that fit exactly between the shelves. There will be probably little pieces of wood in the back and a latch in the front to make sure the Rubbermaid wont move.

Two things we need help with are heat and ventillation. Is drilling holes in the Rubbermaid going to be enough ventillation? And with the heat tape, can it be stuck on the wooden shelf and be touching the Rubbermaid without burning or melting anything? (never used heat tape before) Any other suggestions are appreciated
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Becky
bcwildlife.marybgosh.com
critterkeeper@tds.net

>>My fiance, Cliff, it going to build me a snake enclosure. I just wanted to describe it here and make sure it sounds ok. We are going to build something like a bookshelf with 3 shelves (3 snakes) but with no back. Then we will have 3 large Rubbermaids that fit exactly between the shelves. There will be probably little pieces of wood in the back and a latch in the front to make sure the Rubbermaid wont move.
>>
>>Two things we need help with are heat and ventillation. Is drilling holes in the Rubbermaid going to be enough ventillation? And with the heat tape, can it be stuck on the wooden shelf and be touching the Rubbermaid without burning or melting anything? (never used heat tape before) Any other suggestions are appreciated
>>-----
>>Becky
>>bcwildlife.marybgosh.com
>>critterkeeper@tds.net

A couple of things.....
Yes drill holes in the rubbermade container for ventilation.
I used a 1/8 inch drill bit and drilled two rows of holes, on 1 inch centers, in each end of the box and one row of holes down each side on 2 inch centers.
I think you should put a back on the rack. Just make the shelves so that they come about a 1/4 inch from the back of the rack. This is so you can run heat tape up the back and just slide the boxes up against the heat tape.
Or you could do like I did.
I actually used an old book shelf. The kind with the adjustable shelves. I removed the shelves and used a staple gun to staple a couple of regular heat pads to the back of the shelf. I then slid the shelves back in and placed the boxes on the shelves.
I actually did a little work on it today. I added another shelf.
I now have a 10 gallon aquarium on the bottom, then a shelf with three 6-quart rubbermade boxes on it facing front to back and then three more shelves each with a 28 quart rubbermade box running left to right.
Works pretty good until I need to expand to a true rack system.
Here is a picture of how it looked before I added another shelf and removed three of the smaller boxes.
It's not the best picture or best looking rack out there but it is functional.

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Jimmy (draybar)

definitely put a back on the shelves as it is the back that give the unit stability. without the back, your square case will tilt over to one side, becoming a polygon shortly before collapsing. A thin sheet of masonite stapled or nailed to the back is standard and sufficient. Many rack systems use rubber runners nailed to the bottom of the upper shelf in such a way that the upper lip of the plastic tub is held tightly and can't slide in or out without some recognizable friction. This resistance is necessary to prevent escapes from tubs not fully closed, or pushed out by larger snakes. Friction from the sides is prefferable than friction from top and bottom (i.e. making the shelves exactly the right hight) for the following reasons. It is easier to build, it is easier to adjust as needs be, the right amount of friction is dilivered over a minimum surface area making it easier to "tune", making wear and tear less of a problem, and making the unit more accepting of future tub replacements/size changes.
Regarding the heat tape a fire concerns. Definately test it out before committing.