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What are some common diseases in ball pythons...

roachey56 Feb 10, 2004 05:33 PM

What are some common diseases in Ball pythons?
What are the symptomsS?
How are they caused?
How are they cured?

any links, photos, articles, etc would be appreciated.

I would really like to know about a couple common diseases in ball pythons so i can be fully prepared when i get my ball.
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0.1 Albino Leopard gecko
Coming Soon
1.0 ball python

Replies (5)

Carmichael Feb 10, 2004 08:37 PM

Bp's are fairly hardy animals and listing "common diseases" would not be appropriate because there really aren't any common diseases that afflict this species. Perhaps a better way to put it is to ask what types of ailments could be potential problems for bp's. Here's a few:

1) Ticks/Mites: these parasites are the plague of snake keepers. This is more of a problem with imported animals and I would strongly recommend that you purchase or obtain a healthy, captive bred hatchling.

2) Stuck sheds: even healthy bp's can have bad sheds and the important thing is to check to make sure that the eye caps come off. I typically will greatly boost ambient humidity levels prior to an impending shed (via misting of lukewarm water).
Most stuck sheds can be manually taken off (but do it gently and when in doubt, seek veterinary or expert assistance).

3) A snake that is not feeding: Bp's will go through periods of self imposed fasts; this is perfectly normal and as long as the snake was well fed prior to the fast, there is nothing to be worried about. But, if the snake starts losing a lot of weight, then you need to seek assistance.

4) Thermal burns: many people say that their bp's bellies are turning red/pink; although this could be due to a shed ready to come off, more often than not, it is due to using an undertank heat pad that is far too warm (even hot)...this can be a medical emergency. Silvadene cream is the treatment of choice but in order to prevent this from happening a second time is to make sure that all heat devices are connected to a thermostat.

There are others, but these are probably the most common problems you will encounter. Bp's are very hardy animals; even when given sub standard care (but they deserve nothing but the best).

Hope this helps,
Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
City of Lake Forest Parks & Recreation

roachey56 Feb 10, 2004 08:43 PM

Ball pythons being very hardy was mentioned in EVERY caresheet, book, and article i have read about them, but i never heard anything about diseases so i was just making sure there werent any diseases Balls contract a lot.
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0.1 Albino Leopard gecko
Coming Soon
1.0 ball python

fenrustf Feb 11, 2004 12:56 PM

Like many snakes, BPs are susceptable to respiratory infections. Its usually caused by insufficient temp/humidity.

IMO Feb 11, 2004 04:35 PM

Happy reading!!! Sorry about the length.
http://www.ccbreptiles.com/ball care sheet.html
1) Respiratory infections appear as excess fluid in the mouth and nostrils, with gaping of the mouth. These infections result from inappropriate conditions such as cool temperatures, dry air, dehydration, stress, and parasites. To treat, increase temperature to 90F and reduce all possible stress to the animal. If condition persist, antibiotic therapy will be necessary through a veterinarian.
2) Mouth rot appears as cankers or lesions in the mouth. This syndrome results from the conditions of (1) & rubbing on rough surfaces, rodent bites and materials lodged in mouth. To treat, increase temp. to 90F, clean infected area (debride) with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (dilute 50:50), remove loose material (necrotic tissue) and swab with betadine 2X daily. If condition persist, medical attention is needed.
3) Dry sheds are due to dehydration, improper temperatures, illness and stress. Allow the animal to hide in a moist location when shedding, such as a water dish or container with a damp towel or spagnum moss.
4) Thermal burns and "Belly Rot" are caused by exposing the animal to a high heat source or unsanitary conditions. Follow procedure for (2), treat all damaged tissue. Correct the improper conditions.
5) Mites are small blood sucking ecto parasites, which are irritating to snakes. They appear as small black poppy seeds on the animal or in its dish. Consult your pet shop or fellow herper for treatment (Bio strip, ivermectin etc.).
6) Internal parasites can be a problem especially with imported animals. Symptoms such as failure to thrive, regurgitation, failure to feed, sickness and depression are all possible signs of a parasite infestation. It may be a wise move to bring a fresh fecal sample to a veterinarian, and if necessary treat for parasites.

http://www.angelfire.com/al/repticare/page21.html
7) Salmonella:
This section should be paid very close attention to especially where young children, children and adult with compromised immune systems, the elderly and pregnant or nursing mothers are concerned. ALL REPTILES CAN CARRY SALMONELLA. It is possible to have your veterinarian screen for salmonella by doing several fecal screenings for it. This requires three separate screening performed three weeks apart. The only problem with this method is that salmonella is shed periodically and even this strict protocol will not guarantee the detection of salmonella. The best method for dealing with the potential for salmonella is to simply help to prevent its spread by always WASHING YOUR HANDS AFTER HANDLING YOUR SNAKE, CLEANING ITS ENCLOSURE OR CLEANING ENCLOSURE FURNISHINGS. NEVER CLEAN THE ENCLOSURE IN FOOD PREPARATION AREAS OR EAT, DRINK OR SMOKE WHILE CLEANING AND NEVER LET CHILDREN HELP WITH THE CLEANING PROCESS. If you suspect that you or any member of your family has been exposed to salmonella you should not waste time and contact your family physician right away. THE SPREAD OF SALMONELLA CAN BE PREVENTED THROUGH PROPER HUSBANDRY AND REGULAR VETERINARY SCREENINGS OF ALL NEW REPTILES. If you are concerned about the spread of this disease and would like to learn more about what you can do to prevent its spread I urge you to contact your family physician and/or your State Public Health Veterinarian's office for more information on reptiles and salmonella.

http://www.anapsid.org/ball.html
8) Inclusion Body Disease / Quarantine
Inclusion body disease (IBD) is a virus that affects boas and pythons (boids). It is always fatal in pythons. Unfortunately, the lust to sell has overcome common sense in private breeders as well as pet stores and wholesalers, and an increasing number of boas and pythons are being sold who are infected with this virus.
Always spend a considerable amount of time observing boids before you buy them, especially at pet stores. Even reptile specialty stores have been selling infected stock so buying from such stores is no guarantee that you are buying an uninfected/unexposed snake. Don't buy a boid because you feel sorry for it, because it looks sick and the store isn't providing proper care for it - you may lose every boid you own.
Always observe strict quarantine procedures when bringing in a new boid into your house if you already have other boids. IBD may take several months to manifest itself. Owners have reported their new snakes showing signs as little as one month after acquiring hatchlings to well over one year after acquiring a new boid.
Always have boids who are not acting well (loss of appetite, regurgitating meals, mouthrot, respiratory infection, contorted body positions, stargazing) seen by a reptile vet as soon as possibly after symptoms are noticed. Warn the vet before coming in that it may be IBD so they may take precautions to reduce exposure to other boids who may be in their office at that time.
Remember that it doesn't require snake-to-snake contact to spread the disease. You may unwittingly spread it by handling other snakes without first thoroughly washing your hands. Viruses are airborne - think twice about taking your snakes to places where they will encounter snakes belonging to people who may not be taking proper precautions.

DexterPython Feb 13, 2004 05:08 AM

My vet has said that Betadine is too dehydrating and that Nolvasan is a better choice, because it's what vet offices use. You can also use it for cage disinfectant, basically a stronger version of Virosan. I think you can get it in most feed stores by the litre or by the gallon at PetCareRx.com. My vet also said to get the solution and not the surgical scrub.

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