Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Thanks so much for all the advice & support!

Sorry for the delay in reporting back - skink intensive care nursing has been taking up a lot of my time! The vet felt the main problem was dehydration and possibly an upper respiratory infection. They gave him a large injection of fluid
into the intraperitoneal space and also a shot of Baytrel, and
now he is on Baytrel by mouth, daily for 2 weeks. (I hope it gets easier - it was quite a challenge giving him his first dose yesterday!)

She also explained to me that his shedding was abnormal. When I brought him in he was covered in dry, hanging sheds. I was not aware that this was not right. They took him in the back and cleaned him up, and when they brought him back out to me, I did not recognize him! He looked so much better, with all the shed removed. And his eyes were open again! I do not really understand how this is so, but the abnormal shedding was causing his eyes to stay closed (in addition to being sunken from dehydration).

He was feisy receiving these treatments, which gave me hope - since I felt it showed that he still had strength. When I asked for a prognosis, she said "he could go either way" but that he was pretty "substantial" (weighed 400 gms) considering his condition, and that was a good thing in his favor.

She gave me suggestions for improving his environment. After hearing what she said and reading these forums, I now realize, we were inadvertently, but ignorantly, keeping him in a sub-standard environment - too cool and too dry. She also suggested vitamins (Rep-cal and Herptivite ONLY). It is amazing he stayed well as long as he did (we've had him 2 1/2 years.) The assistant said "skinks are slow to get sick and slow to get better".

Yesterday he seemed better, but now I'm thinking the "improvement" was just the result of the bolus of fluid they gave him, because today he seems lethargic again, and the worst part is he won't eat or drink ANYTHING! I bought pothos and sweet potato baby food, as she suggested - but he just resolutely turns his head away when I offer it. And he has not taken any water, other than a few licks of the wall that I had just sprayed. Is there a trick to getting him to take something? I can't afford to keep bringing him to the vet for hydration - not at $105 a visit. Can this be done at home? I am a nurse so I'm not squeamish about injections - though I've never injected a non-human before!

Thanks again for all the help!

I am certainly no expert on the care of PTS, and hopefully those you are will reply to your questions as well.

I can only offer suggestions as to what worked with my PTS, Dill.

Dill has had a long history of bad sheds, as evidenced by her missing toes. When I first got Dill, she had a badly infected toe, and was put on Baytril to help clear that up.
I feel your pain on trying to get the medicine into your skink! Those jaws are STRONG, and when the don't want to open, it's next to impossible to convince them to do so.

What I did was purchase some Repta-aid for Herbivores. I mixed it up to make about 2tsps worth. I also drew up the dosage of baytril that was required, and had the syringe sitting within reach.
I sat Dill on my lap, and held a plastic coated baby spoon with some repta-aid on it, in front of her nose.
She did her usual testing with her tongue, and when she realized it was tasty, she began to lick at it. I would then drip the baytril slowly onto the repta-aid on the spoon, timing it with her licks as best I could, so none dripped off. It worked like a charm for us. I always made sure to have some of the repta-aide left over so that once the medicine was into her, she could have some non-medicated repta-aid as well.
(If you can't get Repta-aid, try pea baby food...Dill LOVES it! It's high fat, so I wouldn't use it as a regular staple, but in this case it might work to get the meds into your PTS.)

As far as getting fluids into your PTS...again, I have found success with using a syringe, without the needle. I work in a hospital, so I get some of the needle-less syringes in the larger sizes (60cc works great, as does 20cc). I use warm water, approx (human) body temperature. I then slowly drip water onto Dills nose. It has to be done SLOWLY as they breath through their nose, and you don't want your skink to aspirate. Again, she will usually start sticking out her tongue to see whats running down her nose. Once she does that, then I move the drips away from her nose, and attempt to drip the water right onto her tongue when she opens her mouth.

Dill will now drink from a shallow lid that came from a container that is about 6 inches wide, but only about 1/2 an inch deep. She refuses to drink from anything any deeper than that.
The other thing is, you could puree up some cantaloupe melon. It has high water content, and seems to be loved by PTS.

I purchased a warm mist humidifier for her a few months ago now, and I have noticed a HUGE change in her! It has been amazing. She even had her first uncomplicated shed. She is now so fiesty and territorial, I don't mess with, cause she means business!

Anyway...good luck to you and your skink. If there is anything I can help you with, please feel free to ask. I've only had the one PTS...so my knowledge is based only on my interaction with her...but if it helps you out that's great.

-----
Kim

Thanks, Kim - you have given me many excellent ideas to try. Perhaps the nightly Baytril will be less traumatic!

Loved your photo of Dill - what a beauty! She looks quite self-satisfied!

One question - what exactly is a "bad shed" vs. an "uncomplicated shed"?

Also, from what I can see, Dill's enclosure looks very appealing. Any particular place where you can get ideas or see photos of others? Mo's accomodations definitely need upgrading! I am awaiting 2 books I have just ordered in the mail, but would like to see more photos. Thanks again!

LEEWAY CORUCIA RESEARCH CENTER (LCRC)

Hello again,

Kim made an excellent point on the melon. Also Cucumbers have a high water content. I am not sanquine on injections for Corucia per se. In most cases, they respond better to oral treatment.

2 of the most common enclosures for keeping Corucia are wooden framed with Hardware cloth and melamine. Whatever you use, be sure there is sufficient air flow. Although humidity is needed, stagnant air is a ticket for trouble. Be sure to have upper platforms, plants (Artifical preferred by me) and hides.

Sincerely,
Brian
LCRC

These are the two enclosures at my house- one hold a big family of 2 adults and their 5 offspring (2 sets of twins and a singleton). The other holds a trio (male, female and an unknown). Humidity is controlled/provided with ultrasonic humidifiers and humidistats to be around 60-70%. Lighting is currently provided with mercury vapor lights at the top (these provide heat, light and large amounts of UV radiation for calcium metabolism). The top of the enclosure is around 85 degrees. There are secondary heat zones inside maintained with heat pads on the bottoms of some of the shelves. Lights are on timers.
Large soaking bowl at the bottom, and we feed off of a flat plate on a middle shelf.
They eat mixed dark leafy greens 75% (dandelion, kale, mustard, bok choi, cabbages, chard ect), grated veg 25% (carrot, yam, squashes) with fruit juice (usually kiwi) squeezed on top to make it more palatable and to make the supplements (reptical or oxbow critical care) stick. We make up a big container of food about every 3-4 days and store it in the fridge. We put in fresh food every evening.
Other tasty feeding items that are part of their diet- Golden Pothos (house plant) if we are leaving for a night or two- I purchase a big houseplant and put it in there- they will eat this happily- and as it is a living plant, it does not spoil in 24 hours. Also fresh mulberry- these are grown as shade trees in N. California you can probably find them in So Cal as well- we cut branches and put them in a pot of water directly in the enclosures. Our PTS love fresh mulberry and it has a great fiber and calcium content. They can climb the thick branch and eat very naturally- hanging in the branch. We maintain them on an entirely vegetarian diet currently.
The plants you can see are all artificial.
cheers, Jess b

Wow, that looks like a great set-up!
Thank you for sharing - and for a very informative post.

.

LEEWAY CORUCIA RESEARCH CENTER (LCRC)

Hello,

On Corucia, Force feeding should be done as a last resort and not in excessive quantities, a soft probe (Dental pick with a rubber tip) or popsickle stick can be used to gently open the mouth to fed or medicate. A rubber baby spoon is good for use with baby food. A LITTLE water can be administered as well. I would hold off on this for right now and observe. The last thing you want to do is overstress her/him and possibly create a mouth infection. Make Sure the humidity is proper. Corucia go off feed if it is too dry. His just coming off an improper shed may have to be taken into account as well.

Out of curiosity, You mentioned keeping your Corucia too cool. What was the temperature kept at?

Sincerely,
Brian
LCRC