Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have had a white's tree frog for about a year and a half. I learned a long time ago that white's tree frogs let their water supply out as a defense when they feel threatened. I have found that I can handle my frog for a good amount of time and then he just lets his water out almost as a message that he is done being handled. I then put him back in his cage. Lately, however, I will get him out and he will shoot me within the first couple minutes! Can anyone help me? It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you a lot!

Brandon
Corn Snake Hobby Site

Hi Brandon,

I think you've answered your own question, your frog is "letting his water out" because he feels threatened from you. Amphibians are sensative animals that do not tolerate handling well. They have a permeable skin that they use to obsorb water with. Human hands are not safe for frogs to sit on, think of all the lotion, soap, cleaners, food, grease and everything else that also come in contact with your hands during the day. These could potentially be obsorbed through the frogs skin. Even the oils naturally produced by human skin can irritate amphibians. When you do need to move your frog out of it's cage catch it with a plastic container or moist net. Stop handling your frog and your frog will stop "letting his water out" Good luck!
-----
Devin
devin@amphibiancare.com
www.amphibiancare.com
4.1 Dendrobates tinctorius 'Dwarf French Guiana'
1.1 Dendrobates tinctorius 'Powder Blue'
5.1 Mantella aurantiaca
2.1 Mantella crocea
0.0.2 Mantella madagascariensis
1.0 Ceratophrys cranwelli
1.0 Bufo americanus
0.0.1 Salamandra salamandra
1.0 Ambystoma tigrinum
0.1 Chamaeleo calyptratus
0.1 Phelsuma dubia
1.0 Uroplatus ebenaui
0.0.1 Chrysemys picta belli
1.0 Terrapene carolina triunguis

Thank you for your reply. I know that white's tree frogs are very laid back. They are very content to stay in one place for a long period of time. I have provided him with a "coco hut" or a hollowed out coconut with an opening cut in it. He spends alomost all of his time hiding in the hut. I almost feel like he is depressed or something. Do you think that he is really depressed or is this normal? I have felt that by handling him I am giving him a sort of "enrichment." Is it possible that he needs a mate or a friend? Thank you for your time.

Brandon
Corn snake hobby site

There could possible be something wrong with your set-up. Tree frogs are aboreal- they are sopposed to be in the trees, not on the ground hiding. As far as cage mates go or "enrichment", frogs are non-social, yes, they can live without you or a cagemate. Branches are a must, temps in 70-75 range (I think thats about right) Please descibe your set-up, temps etc and maybe we can try to figure out what up with his hiding. Thanks!
-----
¤§ RyanD §¤

My tank is 20" wide 12.5" tall and 10" deep. For a substrate, I use "Forest Bark." There is a water dish and a branch with plastic foliage in the corner of the tank. I also have the coconut shell that my White's is always hiding in. I really think that he may need a larger cage with more height. Do you think that this is needed? This is my first tree frog and I hope that I haven't caused him any discomfort. Thank you for your time.

Brandon
Corn Snake Hobby Site

Hi Brandon,

You picked a good species to start with. White's tree frogs are tolerant of a wide range of conditions and are hardy enough to survive many common mistakes. A 10 gallon aquarium is not large enough to keep a whites tree frog in. Your frog will do fine temporarily but I would recomend getting a larger aquarium as soon as possible that is at least 20 inches high. Small bark chips can accidentally be swollowed by frogs when they eat and shouldn't be used. If you think the bark pieces are small enough to fit in the frog's mouth I would recomend that you use a different substrate. Coconut husk fiber (bed-a-beast, forest bed, eco earth, eco peat, etc.) or another safe soil substrate is what I preffer to use with amphibians although moist paper towels or foam rubber would work too but would need to be cleaned more often. The temperature in the terrarium should range from 75F-80F during the day with a 5 to 10 degree drop at night. Here is an excellent care sheet about them that should answer some of your other questions: http://www.froggie.info/whites/index.htm Good luck,
-----
Devin
devin@amphibiancare.com
www.amphibiancare.com
4.1 Dendrobates tinctorius 'Dwarf French Guiana'
1.1 Dendrobates tinctorius 'Powder Blue'
5.1 Mantella aurantiaca
2.1 Mantella crocea
0.1.4 Mantella madagascariensis
1.0 Ceratophrys cranwelli
1.0 Bufo americanus
0.0.1 Salamandra salamandra
1.0 Ambystoma tigrinum
0.1 Chamaeleo calyptratus
0.1 Phelsuma dubia
1.1 Uroplatus ebenaui
0.0.1 Chrysemys picta belli
1.0 Terrapene carolina triunguis

Thank you everybody for replying. I have been trying to find cages on the internet. They are all quite expensive! Does anyone have any suggestions on where I can go to get a good deal online?
Thanks a lot!

Brandon

There is hardly any good cages that can be shipped that won't be expensive. It would be ALOT easier to just go to the pet store and get a 20H glass tank. Thats a little small I think. Your whites would much rather perfer a 30 gallon, one with highth.
So, yours shopping list goes as this:

--Coconut Fiber Bedding (Bed-a-beast, Eco earth...)
--Tall glass aquarium (20-30 gallons)
--Some more branches and peices of cork (This is opt. but I you whites would much enjoy some nice thick climbing sticks)
--Mabye a basking bulb( any typw would do, you would have to test out what watt won't get the branch below it above 85ish)
--More plants (optional, you can get real or fake, doesn't matter, whatever you perfer, some nice sturdy real plants are Mothers-Im-laws tounge(snake plant) and Pothos)

Post what you will be getting and doing, and we can double check if you missed anything. I can tell your whites will be ver very happy when your done getting a new tank for him!
-----
¤§ RyanD §¤

I hope to go shopping tomarrow. Thank you for the cage suggestions. I hope to get a 20 or 30 gallon tank, some new beding, a taller clibing branch, and maybe a higher wattage bulb than I already have. I will post the list of things that I actually get.
thank you everybody for your help. It is much appreciated.
corn_snake_dude@yahoo.com

Brandon

my parents who, by the way, know nothing about herping, think that the bigger cage is not necessary. They think that it is a waste of money. How necessary is the bigger cage? I really want my white's to be happy. I think that I really should get a bigger cage. I need to provide my frog with a good home. Hmm, If I get a new cage, hey, I'll have an extra. New herp??!!
Thanks for your help

Well, I went to the pet store. They don't have any bed-a-beast!!!My dad was ragging on me, so I ended up not getting a bigger cage. I did find out that my current one is really 15 gallons. The one I was looking at was 25 gallons and tall. I ended up getting a new silk plant and a new clibing vine. How necessary is a bigger cage?

Brandon

He is so used to you putting him back as soon as he lets out his water that he is being rewarded by being put back as soon as he lets it out.
I am sure even frogs can learn. Maybe you should not handle him that much any way frogs are a look at not touch kind of pet.
Handling can stress them out.