1.) If a snake is a "one" I can place a frozen thawed food item in it's enclosure out of it's sight and it will immediately come out of hiding, attack and "kill" the food and eat it.
2.) If a snake is a "two" I can place a frozen thawed food item in it's enclosure out of it's sight and it will immediately come out of hiding and calmly start eating it.
3.) If a snake is a "three" I can offer a froxen thawed food item by tongs and simulate movement and the snake will attack and "kill" the food and eat it. There are varying degrees of movement necessary with some snakes needing very realistic type movements.
4.) If a snake is a "four" I can place a f/t food item in it's enclosure and it will eventually come out and eat it within 24 hours. Never with anyone in the room.
5.) If a snake is a "five" I can offer a freshly killed food item. Usually by tongs with movement.
6.) If a snake is a "six" I can offer a stunned but still kicking food item and the snake will coem out of hiding, attack and kill the food and then eat it.
Note: Types 1-6 are what I would consider acceptable. The following are what I would consider problem feeders.
7.) If a snake is a "seven" it will except live food.
8.) If a snake is an "eight" it will except scented live food.
9.) If a snake is a "nine" it will accept the wrong kind of food item. ie. not a mouse or rat.
10.) If a snake is a ten it is not feeding by any of the methods described above.
A snake that falls into any one of the categories usually fits into alot of the categories below it. For example a "one" would probably feed by any of these methods.
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Martin Whalin
My Email
Quotes from guys named Carl:
"Science stops at the frontier of logic. Nature does not, she thrives on ground as yet untrodden by theory."
-Carl Jung
"It is foolish to let singleness of purpose deprive one of the joy and delectation of the many wonderful sights and sounds incidental to the quest."
-Carl Kauffeld
