Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Since i am going to get some PTS i am putting together lists of what i need to get and build for them. In a 5Hx3Lx2W how many PTS can i safely house? If a buy a male and female and they start breeding how many babies would be able to be in the cage with the parents? Below is the list i have so far:
5Hx3Lx2W wooden tank with a screen front and top, velcro(sp) for removing screen, Pothos plants, fake plants, long thick wood branches, Corck caves for hiding, large food dish, Large water bowl, Day Glow Light with lamp, Digital Thermometer, Humidity gage, Spray bottle, and a bark substarte.

Please let me know if anything i have on the list is wrong, and please let me know if i forgot anything. Also, at what age are PTS ready to breed, and about how long are they when they are able to start breeding? And where can i get some nice fat and healthy adults. At the momment I am looking at Regal Reptiles and i am going to give Shawn a call about the prices and all that good stuff?
-----
Mike
1.1.1 maliensis (Spike, Marshmellow, Hummer)
1.0 acanthinurus-werneri (Mongas)
0.1 ornata (Chubs)
0.1 Pit Bull/German Shephard/Lab/ect. mix (Kodak) - looks like an over grown toco bell dog.

Uromastyx Pics

LEEWAY CORUCIA RESEARCH CENTER (LCRC)

Corucia (Our Personal Opinion) should be at least 4 years of age before the Breeding attempt should be made. 5 is better.

You mentioned screening. I hope you meant hardware cloth or the equivalent. Regular window / chameleon screening will be quickly torn up and your Corucia scoping the scene in short order.

Sincerely,
Brian

I'm not sure what you're refering to when you say a "day glow" light. You want to make sure that you get a flourescent bulb that emits full-spectrum light. Fish lights, plant lights, grow lights, etc. are *not* full spectrum. You want something something like a Repti Sun tube by ZooMed or a VitaLight. You may also want to supplement with a UVB specific light like a black light (BL type blacklight, not the BLB, which you find at places like Spencer Gifts) or a mercury vapor flood light.

I also didn't see any heating equipment on your list. If your ambient room temps are warm enough to maintain sufficient temps through the night you need only get a basking light for heat during the day. Mercury Vapor floodlights are good for this (and have the added UVB benefit). Try to avoid spotlights as they can make incredibly hot spots, enough to burn an animal, or so I'm told. However, any light that puts out enough heat to raise one area of the tank to around 88 degrees for 8 hours a day or so is sufficient. Just make sure your basking area is large enough for all of the animals you have to comfortably bask at the same time with their entire body in the basking area.

If you need heat during the night as well I recommend you invest in a ceramic heat emitter.

For a good (but slightly outdated) discussion of heating and lighting issues, check out Melissa Kaplan's site, anapsid.org.

-Z

/

We all have to start somewhere.

But yes, Corucia will inveriably seek a hide similar to a tree hollow to escape bright light. Conditions in Papua New Guinea or the Solomon's (Being on the Equator) are such that it would never be cool enough for this species to bask; which as stated would be uncomfortable anyways.

Liz

Z knows the PTS sleep/wake cycle as well as any of us.
I think providing a bask zone for PTS is appropriate, just don't expect to see it used like a beardie or iguana would.

I have a basking zone set up for my PTS group(s) at the top of the enclosures via a mercury vapor lamps with a half round hides underneath. My bask zones are 'warm zones' where they can go if they want additional heat. Occasionally I see a PTS actually basking- usually the adult male. I often see a PTS under the hide under the MVL, with a tail sticking out into the direct light. I don't know if the tail exposure is accidental or whether it is on purpose for Vit D3/Calcium metabolism. I have other warm zones lower in the enclosures as well created with heat mats or ceramic lamps.
Cheers, Jess b

LEEWAY CORUCIA RESEARCH CENTER (LCRC)

Well, at the risk of diving into a Hot-Zone here, I have to say that, although Corucia like to lay on upper-platforms or tree branches, they do tend to retreat from bright or sunny areas and not desire to bask. At least, in my experience.

Sincerely,
Brian
LCRC

N/P

Cheers, Jess (overdue and getting impatient!) b

Let me rephrase.

You must provide an area that is warmer than the ambient temperature of the rest of the cage. This is so the animal can thermoregulate. I refered to it as a basking spot because while the functional use may be different, the method of providing it is the same. I regret not making that more clear for you.

My distinction about a light during the day vs. a CHE at night was to emphasize that it is not ok to use a light, even a red bulb, for nighttime heating.

-Z

Hello! That size enclosure is similar to what I have for my PTS. Currently my big family numbers 7 in that space, but that is about 2-3 too many I think. This is an adult pair and 5 offspring, which is why I think I have gotten away with it so far. Keeping the babies with the parents for several years is ideal, but I have been 'blessed' with twins twice now, so overcrowding is now a worry. IF you have a compatible pair, and IF you get the average 1 baby every year or two- you should have enough space in your enclosure for many years. Bigger is always better of course- and the largest dimension should be the vertical as they are arboreal.

Velcro may not be strong enough to keep them in, and you will need something stronger than standard window-type screen if this is what you have. PTS are very strong for their size- design your cage strength to contain an adult Iguana... I have metal screen screwed to a wood frame, and the doors close with big latches.

Your furniture sounds good. Have your cage set up with multiple levels, and a temp gradient so they can thermoregulate- unless you have a nice warm reptile room. My bask areas are around 85, and the background temp I try to keep above 70.
Spraying multiple times a day to keep up the humidity (ideal to be above 60%) got old fast, so I set up a humidifier to a humidistat and it cycles on and off as needed.
I have sheets of newspaper on the bottom with no substrate to speak of- they don't spend much time on the bottom- only to urinate, defecate, soak in the soak bowl and give birth. You will probably find bark is hard to keep clean and will get wet and yucky (PTS have LARGE soft feces and urinate large amounts).

They reach sexual maturity at 3+ years old, but I think it would be better to wait until the female(s) are more mature (meaning larger).
Good luck, Jess B