Okay, I know that many people on this forum have tried to offer you advice, yet you don't take it. You rely on what the "Breeder" says that you got her from, and that's fine. But, if you come onto this forum looking for help, we offer, and you tell us that what we have said isn't what the "breeder" said, what is the reason of posting more and more questions on this forum for us to post to, to try to help your geckos? You continually ask the same question, not satisfied with your answers. Many newer people do do that, as I have before, because of what some "breeder" tells them to try to make a few bucks. Not saying that the person that you got your animals from was ignorant, or trying to get you to blow more money with him, but some of the stuff they told you was quite, in my opinion, wrong.
1. As many people have told you, your first mistake was not quarantining your new arrival. It doesn't matter where you get your animals from, you should still quarantine them. I still have some of Kelli Hammack's (Hisss.net) and Jonathan Ho's (SFGeckos) animals in quarantine. I trust them, yes as they are very reputable breeders, but I would never do anything to endanger the lives of my already established geckos. Crypto, one of the most deadly, in my opinion, sicknesses that a gecko can get, takes at least 2-3 months to incubate within the animals system, before they'd show any signs. So just because the "breeder" says it's okay, that it's not sick, they don't ALWAYS know what they're talking about. Maybe it aquired crypto, coccidia, pinworms, hookworms, etc, etc. before being sold to you. And now that you've introduced it to your male, there might be a chance that instead of one animal dying, two will.
2. Another crucial mistake that you made is putting an 'underage' and underweight female with a male. A male comes into sexual maturity, in my experience, faster than females, and just because she's little, she doesn't know that. So they end up mating, and she becomes egg bound, which, untreated would more than likely lead to death. Also, the forming eggs within the small female will deprive her of the valuable calcium that she needs for her growing bones, more than likely ending up with a mild case of MBD, in the best of situations. Breeding too early has also been shown to stunt a female's growth.
3. The last mistake that you made, was not following the advice given to you on this forum. Many of these people own Leopard Geckos, and care about their well being. They wouldn't lead you astray on purpose. As with me, I've been reading everything I can get my hands (or Web Browser) on for the past 2-3 years. I'd suggest that, if you haven't already, read as many caresheets as you can.
My Advice__
Separate your female from your male NOW. Share the UTH, or put a clamp-light with a bulb in there for heat, for now. Either way, the female should be taken from the males tank/cage ASAP. Do not delay.
Quarantine any new geckos you receive. Do not, and I repeat, do not, put them with your already healthy geckos. It has been my experience that they do grow quite faster alone, compared to two or three smaller animals together, competing for food.
Larger geckos do bully the smaller around, eating as much as they can, and not allowing the other to eat anyting. When leopard geckos are together, they are usually inside the same hide, but this means nothing compared to their relationship. Just because they are together, this doesn't mean that one isn't a bully. This includes following the other around, all part of the bullying process. If you care for your geckos, like I know you do, follow these guidelines, and you will have happy - healthy pets.
-----
Modern Geckos
Josh Ellis
My Email
----------------------------------