Reptile & Amphibian Forums

We have a few questions for experienced AFT owners. NO offence to the newer owners!

1. Has anyone had any problems with their AFT reacting in any negative fashion to Zoomed's infrared heat lamps?

They were recommended to us by a breeder to use to help regulate night time temps-- since the winter temps here in Ohio get pretty bitter and we live in an old house...that can get pretty drafty, no matter where in the house one may be. With spring coming on, we will not need to use them at night, as we had to in the winter in conjunction with her 'belly warmer'.
However, after watching Vidocq for a considerable amount of time, we are pretty sure she is 'shy' of the infrared light.

We were just wondering if anyone else has had this experience.
We use an infrared with a leo, to help regulate night time temps and she pays no mind—in fact it perked her right up.

2. What is the normal 'fasting' period of an AFT? Pre-shed and 'cooling-breeding' season.

At the moment our AFT, who is otherwise very healthy and is being sluggish on her eating. And almost in a 'hibernation' state-- which could also be because of the infrared light. Her temps are normal-- 80 'hot side-ambient', 85 'belly basking', cool side 75. Night time temps are, 75 'hot side-ambient', 80 'belly basking', cool side 70. We came to these numbers after consulting several breeders and care sheets-- we were given all sorts of different numbers that differed slightly and I took them all and averaged them out. It's been working just fine, in the summer things will naturally raise 3 degrees. The temp inside her humid hide is a constant 85.

At the moment she seems to be not interested in food-- she is due to shed as per her color dulling (on cue by my records). Is there an average time frame in your experience of AFT fasting? And does the change in seasonal temp affect in conjunction with the pre-shed blues?

3. She's a picky eater.

She has never had a voracious appetite-- only consuming an average of 2-3 cricket every other day. And occasionally surprising us by eating five large crickets twice or so a month. She won't eat meal worms, nor any other 'grub', no matter how tricky or slowly we introduce them to her. Though she's a healthy weight and has a chubby little tail-- we were wondering if this is on par with the species.

Thanks for any feed back in advance.

Feel free to e-mail us. We would love to get in contact with you.

Best,

Scott and Cat

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0.1.0 African Fat Tail
0.1.0 Leopard Gecko
1.0.0 Flat Tail House Gecko
1.1.0 Long Tail Grass Lizards
1.0.0 Betta (Past away 3/17/04)
1.1.0 Cats

I have not used zoomed infared lightbulbs on any of my reptiles so I can not answer that question for you.

I have 2 AFTs and only one of the has gone on fast..................and that was when I first recived him and he did not eat for a month and never lost any weight surprisingly(jeez big word.........well for me lol).

Well my adult AFT only eats crickets and a pinkie every week,while my juvie eats only crickets(because he is too small for pinkies).

-Kevin
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Tarentolas@hotmail.com
Geckos
1.1.0 Gekko gecko(Geico and Gekko)
1.1.0 Eublepharis macularius(male Blizzard and Hi-yellow female)
2.0.0 Hemitheconyx caudicinctus(striped and banded phase)
1.0.0 Tarentola mauritanica(light phase)
1.0.0 Hemidactylus turcicus
Other Lizards
0.1.0 Basiliscus basiliscus
1.0.0 Physignathus cocincinus
0.1.0 Anolis carolinensis
1.0.0 Chamaeleo calyptratus
1.0.0 Iguana iguana(Rex)
Boidae
1.0.0 Python regius
0.0.1 Boa constrictor imperator
Turtle
0.1.0 Chrysemys picta

Most nocturnal reptiles cannot see the red light, and I am almost certain all Eublepharids do not. If the ground level heat is a heat rock or under tank heater where the gecko lays directly on the glass or bottom of the enclosure, digestive difficulties can arise. The amount of hydration is key to regular feeding, because a fair amount of fluid is needed for digestion. Contrary to popular herpetoculture's placement of fat tailed geckos on sand substrate, they need to be house on humidity retaining organic debris. Divide the floor of the enclosure into three sections. The cool end should be 40% cypress mulch, 20% peat moss (or finely coconut shells, such as Bed-A-Beast), 20% sand, and 20% Styrolite-free potting soil. If your budget allows, the commercial Jungle-Mix can be used for this portion. The mid section should be 75% cypress mulch (Commercial jungle mix works well) and 25%. The final third or warm end of the enclosure should be 50% sand, 25% potting soil. The elevation should change from 1 to at least 4.5 inches from cooler to warm ends. This simulates a burrow to get out of the high heat and sleep away from the harm of predators. The sand would be best if it were a Calcium-carbonate compound such as a Reptilite variety or the T-rex digestible sands. Chances are it may be a little too cool during the day and about 5 degrees too warm at night. If it is a wild caught gecko this may matter or it may not have adjusted to you husbandry techniques yet. Also, make sure the burrow allows the gecko to hide from all eyes and is misted moderately every three days. Mist the enclosure once a week and always make sure fresh water is available at a low elevation.
Ashton

The gecko in the photo looks very healthy, but not obese.