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Building an escape proof BP cage.......

lilroach56 Apr 08, 2004 05:19 PM

Since my BP has recently escaped (whole story on BP forum and escaped/lost herp forum), i am going to build an escape proof cage very soon. Here is what i plan to do....

Build a 3' by 2' by 2' (LWH) BP cage.
have it heated with a RHP.

my room temp goes from the low 60's in the winter to the high 70's in the summer.
can someone answer these questions?

what type of wood do you recomend?
what type of door do you recomend?
What type of sealant/stain do you recomend?
how will i make it easy to clean?

I want it to cost less than $150 (just the cage). and i want it to be insulative for the cold winter.

any help, advice, or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 normal ball python (felix)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs or cream)
1.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, and Bear)

-funny typos-
"There are six genes which determine the amount of melanism present in a person's skink"-about human skin color

please give me more typos

Replies (6)

cosmoboa Apr 09, 2004 02:19 AM

I recently posted pics of both my old and new cages. Both are made with red oak plywood. The old cage was 36in by 18in by 18in and was made with 1/2in plywood with a 3/4in melamine bottom and has held up to 60% humidity for about a year and a half without any warping, damage, etc. It was stained with MinWax water based stain and coated thickly with about 4 coats of MinWax water based sealer with about 2 weeks to off-gass (probably overkill as this sealer has very little odor). The sealer makes it very easy to clean with 10:1 water/bleach solution. The new cage is quite a bit larger so I used 3/4in plywood with water based paint and generous amounts of Minwax water based sealer. I prefer to fold down doors so this type of door was used on both cages. Lucite rather than glass (on the advice of Chris Harper in an earlier post) was used to make the door light weight. The door of the new cage is secured at the top on both sides with trunk latches that hold the door securely to the cage. Ventilation is at the top of the cage where the light fixtures sit and this opening is secured with hardware cloth with an overlay of cloth screen in the event that a nervous snake may rub its nose on the screen (this has not been a problem). The cage is both easy to clean and very secure. I hope this helps.

chris_harper2 Apr 09, 2004 09:51 AM

Like Cosmoboa I prefer the laminated plywoods. Birch (or maple) gives a very smooth surface that accepts paint or stain nicely. Oak has a very rich grain texture that looks fantastic with a stained/clear coated finish.

Regarding doors, that's totally up to you. I much prefer double sliding doors I build myself. They work much better than the doors on many commericialy produced cages. If you prefer flip down or hinged to the side doors, by all means use them. I do have a preferred way to build hinged doors that I'll happily share if that's what you want.

For a BP you could probably get away with a water based stain & polyurethane. However, I would provide something a bit more durable for the floor. Perhaps cover the floor with expanded PVC. This will make it easy to clean and also be resistant to water spills and feces/urates deposited on the floor. With it's excellent thermal properties it is also an ideal material to use in conjunction with sub-floor heating (aka "belly heat".

I know you've indicated you want to use RHP but having the ability to add sub-floor heating is a good idea since your winter room temps are low.

There are two ways to use a PVC floor. One is to cut a rectangle out of your plywood floor that is a couple of inches longer and wider than the largest UTH you'll use. Then the plywood floor is covered with the PVC and there is a 3/4" deep air space below the floor to add an UTH if you need it.

If you're confident in your construction skills you can forgo the plywood floor and simply attach the PVC floor directly underneath the cage. This saves a lot of weight but you lose the structural integrity of the plywood floor.

I've done this with dozens of cages with great success.

The PVC floor will make the floor itself easier to clean. The main problem is the junction between the floor and the walls - the area that snake always seem to use for deficating. A water based poly will not withstand scrubbing very well. This is not a huge deal as it dries so quickly that you'd be able to touch up those areas a couple of times per year. One option would be to line the first couple of inches of the walls with something more durable. Either PVCX, an oil-based poly, or perhaps some contact paper that matches to color of your stain.

I think you can keep the costs of any of the above options below $150. You probably could even if you paid a high-end cabinet shop to cut the material for you.

*****************
Build a 3' by 2' by 2' (LWH) BP cage.
have it heated with a RHP.

my room temp goes from the low 60's in the winter to the high 70's in the summer.
can someone answer these questions?

what type of wood do you recomend?
what type of door do you recomend?
What type of sealant/stain do you recomend?
how will i make it easy to clean?

I want it to cost less than $150 (just the cage). and i want it to be insulative for the cold winter.

lilroach56 Apr 09, 2004 11:01 AM

if i were to use additional belly heat what thickness of PVCX should i use? also how would i go about "attaching" the PVCX to the sides?
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
1.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, and Bear)

-funny typos-
"There are six genes which determine the amount of melanism present in a person's skink"-about human skin color

please give me more typos

chris_harper2 Apr 09, 2004 11:22 AM

If you were cutting a square out of the plywood floor and then covering the floor with a 24" x 48" piece of PVCX, I think 1/8" (3mm) would be sufficient. You would have to take some care to not crack that area.

If you're simply attaching a PVCX floor to the sides, then 1/4" (6mm) is a better choice.

The easiest way to attach a solitary PVCX floor to the sides is with some silicone and staples or perhaps small nails. The floor will be somewhat visible from outside the cage this way but can be hidden with some simple moulding.

But I don't know how your cage will be designed. You may be going with an elevated floor with a kick plate. It may not work in that situation and you'll have to get more creative.

lilroach56 Apr 09, 2004 09:16 PM

If i were to use a swinging hinge door would it be safe and practical to get a painting frame to fit the glass and use that as the door?

trying to make it more decorative.
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
1.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, and Bear)

chris_harper2 Apr 10, 2004 06:10 AM

I'm sure you could get a custom frame shop to do this. Have them rabbet all around the interior edge so that a piece of glass or acrylic can be dropped in.

Or you could put a decorative molding directly on the cage front and have the glass close into it.

In this picture I believe you can see a 1/4" pine frame that the acrylic door rests between. Picture this being a decorative molding instead of simple pine stock and that's what I mean.

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