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Working with a Shy Anaconda

kit1970 Apr 21, 2004 09:02 AM

As some of you may know, I recently aquired my first Yellow Anaconda a little over two months ago.
Although I have not noticed any issues with health, I have grown a little concerned that my Anaconda, (Female BTW), spends about 99% of her time within her hide.
Her hide is a large claypot flat with an opening chipped out of the lip just big enough for her to squeeze through.
The only times she comes out is to thermoregulate on the warm side of her cage, drink water, and when she is hungry she stargazes with a quarter of her body extended out of the hide space.
Anytime she sees me, or senses a presence near her cage and she is out, she makes a hasty retreat to her hide.
Now my Anaconda has not demonstrated any aggression, as a matter of fact she doesn't bother grabbing or constricting her prey, she just finds it and then gently swallows it.
I do not want to "force" interactions with her, but in those moments when I need to clean the cage, or when I need to check on her overall condition, this shyness is a bit frustrating to deal with. Anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get her accustumed to being worked with? Is this shyness a behavior of concern? Should I simply wait and let time and trust develop?
Your feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
-Kit

Replies (7)

Eunectes4 Apr 21, 2004 12:02 PM

What you have just described as most anacondas and snakes I have ever seen. Check things out at 4 am and you might see some more activity. You are big and anaconda is little...I am sure you would be a bit shy of something you think is going to eat you. Nocturnal snakes hide in the day and often don't come out until well after you go to bed. I stay up very late usually psst 2 or 3 and my green still isnt out when the ball python and tree boas are having a blast. But last night at about 4:30...she was poking around and looking at the world with bright eyes. Anacondas also have been much more aware of the outside than most other snakes. My ball python could care less what is going on around her cage unless she has been put into a feeding response. The anaconda will go right to what it sees outside the cage and stare and follow for a long time before it makes a decision about what she is going to do about it (ignor and be on he way or go hide). If the snake is eating well I wouldn't worry too much unless you never see movement throughout the cage or the movement you see looks abnormal like she is having a difficult time and could be sick. Sounds like you have a normal anaconda though.

kit1970 Apr 21, 2004 12:24 PM

In my experience, every snake I have ever had has been at times reclusive, but never have I dealt with a snake that has demonstrated this level of shyness.
Perhaps I tend to attract all the oddball animals to myself.

-Kit

dfr Apr 21, 2004 12:07 PM

` I think shy Yellow ( or Green ) Anacondas are not a problem. I've worked with many of them, and had success ( in varying degrees ) with all of them.
` First though, some thoughts on thermoregulation. A cage, and captive husbandry, is completely artificial. If you're using basking lights only, for heat, trying to simulate sunshine, the snake is forced to thermoregulate. I've found, over many years of experimenting that cages with warm and cold areas inhibit shy individuals' behavior.
` Tropical snakes don't need to thermoregulate, unless it is necessary to balance their temperature. I heat the entire floor of my Yellow Anaconda cages from 73 to 88 degrees, with a soaking container over a warm spot to get 80 degree water. Crumpled and wadded newspaper allows them to make their own hide spots wherever they want. I've put shy, traumatized, rescued individuals into that environment and watched them become outgoing and comfortable. They learn to use the entire cage area. They will actually push the newspaper around, making "tents", and also pile it up to make a soft nest. I've experimented with raising the temperature, and watched them move their nests to cooler parts of the habitat.
` What I'm getting at is that the captive animal must be comfortable in its environment before it can grow and flourish.
` Since its sense of smell is more important than any other, put a shirt you've worn in the cage, every day. If the snake is comfortable in its habitat, it will get comfortable with your scent.
` It's OK to force interaction with her. Just use good timing, and use VERY careful handling behavior. Sit in a comfortable chair with her, when you have a chance to sit there for an hour, at least. A large overstuffed chair, in which you can lean back slightly is best. If she wants to tunnel under you, let her. If it's an upholstered chair, that she can get into, put a blanket over it first. That way, she can't get inside the chair. Let her crawl all over you and steer her where you want her to go, with calm, deliberate, and gentle hands. Pick her up as little as possible, during this process. Since Boids tire quickly, she may explore a bunch, tire, and go to sleep on you. That is very good. Don't wake her up. Have a book, or the TV on, and be patient.
` My best "pet grade snakes" want to get on the human heater and take a nap. They will do this on almost anyone who is calm, and not afraid of them. A few of them will even wrap around my neck and shoulders and nap while I move about. Once they are over 20 pounds, or so, this can be really hard on your back!
` Just remember this: the Boid may not be too smart, but it does know that it is completely outclassed by a human. The snake absolutely knows that it is at your mercy. Since it's not too smart, it is also easy to use your advantage as a human to "fool" it, and condition it, into believing it has nothing to fear from humans. When you get your pet Boid to that point, you must be very careful who you allow to handle it. It's like piling up building blocks, you can go a long way, but the pile is easy to upset.
` My Anacondas, even though very tame, have their moods, and preferences. When they see me coming, if they are in a mood to be handled, they come right out when the door is opened. If they aren't in that mood, they burrow under the newspaper, and are generally difficult about being removed from the cage. Usually, once out, they submit, and seem to enjoy being handled. Sometimes though, the entire time they're out, they constantly try to get back to their habitat. They'll tire themselves trying, take a nap on me, then wake up and start trying to get back, all over again. They can be single-minded like no higher animal can think of being. Sometimes, they get me so frustrated, I want to make a nice set of matching luggage out of them. lol
`

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MR_ANACONDA28 Apr 21, 2004 12:39 PM

Sounds to me like you have a normal yellow. POST SOME PIX ALREADY!!!! ---Eric---

MR_ANACONDA28 Apr 21, 2004 01:32 PM

DFR makes some realy good points. Mine hides in her box 75% of the time and the other time in her water. I have worked very hard with her, getting her to be a handlable snake. She is now two years old and changing almost weekly. She comes out of her hide box and climbs up my arm wanting to be held(like dfr states) other times she just says NO!! I have to train myself more than train her, I try to rush things to much (did you see the pic of me getting it in the face?) I would not change any advise dfr has to offer, he is like Yoda, old but very wise.lol. ---Eric---

dfr Apr 21, 2004 01:56 PM

I would not change any advise dfr has to offer, he is like Yoda, old but very wise.lol. ---Eric---

` HEY !!! I have young blood. It's just that it is in an old container, DAMMIT!

` Obstreperous, you are.
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MR_ANACONDA28 Apr 21, 2004 02:04 PM

You made me break out the dictionary, See wise, cuz I have never heard of that word before nor did I know how to say it,lol. I hope that you dont take my humor the wrong way.---Eric---And NO I cant spell.

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