Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hi everybody,

I'm going to get my first leo pretty soon and right now I'm trying to get the tank all set up right. If I have an under tank heater in one end of a 15 gallon long tank, do I need more lighting overhead for heat, or just a light for night time viewing.

Also, for feeding, is it ok to feed mainly a diet of mealworms, with the other worms and crickets once in a while? I'd rather have them on hand then keeping the crickets.

I guess that's it for now. I hope to getting the little guy this week, probably from geckoville.com.

I wouldn't make mealworms a staple...the only reason people use them at ALL, I think, is because they are so easy to raise. They really aren't very good, nutritionally. Crickets are better, though far from perfect.

i have used mealies as a staple for a long time now with no problems. just make sure u have a good gutload for them. and enusure they are from a nice clean source. if not breed tehm yourself (easy).
its fine to throw in a few crix everynow and again aswell as waxies although i would always try not to use waxies as they wont be needed if your gutload is correct.

As for the light i would say that u may not need a light aswell as the uth because of the size of the tank. check your temps with just the uth if they are wrong add a low wattage bulb about 20-40 watt maybe.

if you are wanting a bulb for night time viewing buy a special nite time bulb from your pet store.
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LUMO

Here's the facts on the issue: http://www.michaelthorn.com/cfhs/vet/insect1.html

This fellow has broken down the nutritive contents of several varieties of feeder insects, including crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and silkworms.

Mealworms come out looking fairly abysmal, while silkworms definitely top the list. Crickets have good and bad points...better than mealworms, but still not great.

Worst aspect of both crickets and mealworms is their calcium/phosphorus ratio. Dusting helps, but does not usually completely alleviate this off ratio. Gutloading helps, too, if you use high calcium fortification, and can make a significant difference, but it will also kill your insects, so only put them on it a couple of days before you feed them off.

Aside from that, mealworms are lower in protein than crickets.

>>Here's the facts on the issue: http://www.michaelthorn.com/cfhs/vet/insect1.html
>>
>>This fellow has broken down the nutritive contents of several varieties of feeder insects, including crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and silkworms.
>>
>>Mealworms come out looking fairly abysmal, while silkworms definitely top the list. Crickets have good and bad points...better than mealworms, but still not great.
>>
>>Worst aspect of both crickets and mealworms is their calcium/phosphorus ratio. Dusting helps, but does not usually completely alleviate this off ratio. Gutloading helps, too, if you use high calcium fortification, and can make a significant difference, but it will also kill your insects, so only put them on it a couple of days before you feed them off.
>>
>>Aside from that, mealworms are lower in protein than crickets.
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Josh
My Email

It has been proven that mealworms are better simply by the result all of us have using just mealworms. As Josh said, geckos seem to put better weight on faster then when feeding with crickets. I used to use crickets exclusivly but I got tired with the escapes, the noise, the mess, and the trouble it caused my geckos when they hid in the cage, they die and make the cage smell horrible, and when they lay their eggs in the humid hide and the babies annoying my geckos, and this is all in the less then two days they are in the cage. Mealworms are much more docile then crickets, they wont attach the gecko because they are confined to a little bowl and its much easier for the geckos to get them. Not to mention it will prevent that gecko that will get a mouthful of sand everytime it launches itself for a cricket. Too many breeders to list use mealworms exclusivly or almost exclusivly and have great results. Its even proven in The Leopard Gecko Manual that geckos raised exclusivly on mealworms lived 15 years and it states that mealworms are just as better as crickets. Nutrionally mealworms and crickets are the same, as far as which are better to keep and benifit the keeper and the gecko, mealworms greatly surpass that of a cricket.
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Bradley Baquial

Mealworms are much higher in fat than crickets or silkworms, that is why leopard geckos put on weight a little more quickly when fed mealworms. Criockets are actually much more nutritious and "better" for them longterm. Crickets have a MUCH higher calcuim to phosphorus ratio also.

Mealworms are easier to care for though, and not at all bad for the geckos. I feed mealworms as a staple and offer crickets 1x a week to my guys. I think a varied diet is good for the leopard geckos. However, if you don't gut load your feeder insects properly then none of them are nutritious or good for the animals.

Just my ramblings.
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Peace-
Kelli Hammack
H.I.S.S.
email me

Since Leos are cited as being able to live to 20, I'm not impressed with the 15 year lifespan you mention.

Actually, mealworms are just as good as crix, if properly gutloaded. In fact, I have found that my leos put better weight on and look better overall in size from eating all mealies.
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Josh
My Email

>>Actually, mealworms are just as good as crix, if properly gutloaded. In fact, I have found that my leos put better weight on and look better overall in size from eating all mealies.
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>>Josh
>>My Email
>>
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~Melissa~
http://community.webshots.com/user/virtuosavenus

What's a good gutload to use? I've seen a few at the pet supplies store, but I didnt know what to get.

Look above at the thread that says gutloading mealies and supers. Go to leo lover's web site and read her gutloading page.
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Josh
My Email

Here's my set-up for reference. I have a 20 long tank (12x30 footprint) and use a T-Rex Cobra 10-20 gal. UTH on one end. It is taped along the edges with duct tape (don't cover the heat element part - just the clear edges). Substrate is 1/8" to 1/4" sand (just enough to settle the tile) under uncoated rough ceramic tile. I use a timer to give heat 12 hours/day. This brand UTH is designed to heat to no more than 100 degrees, unlike other brands which can go a lot higher. The temp on the warm end is 92 deg. and 80 deg. on the cool end. There is no need for a temperature control with this set-up. My leos (3) are thriving well and seem to be happy.
Give your guys a couple of dry hides and one humid hide. The humid hide is very important. RR

Which brand UTH do you have? Mine is Zoo Med's Repti Therm for a 10-20 gallon terrarium.

Something to keep in mind. Ron Tremper uses mealworms. He's the man, so if he likes them they must be good. Just look at what he has done, the dude knows his geckos, indides & out. Also per Mr. Tremper's book leo's that eat nothing but mealworms tend to live longer then onces fed other bugs. Some people will also try to tell you mealworms will eat your gecko from the inside out. Belive what you want, but weigh the facts and this myth don't make mush sence to me. As far as light you may need one. You'll just have to check your temps w/ the UTH.
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Have a Nice Day
Andy
www.thegeckosecho.com

How do I check the temp of the UTH? I have those thermometers that stick to the glass on both ends of the tank near the top, so should I get another one that is closer to the floor of the tank near the UTH? I have Four Paws Terranium lining, which I think is the same as cage carpet.

I've let it heat up now for a day, and it feels pretty warm on the carpet end of the tank. If I set a new thermometer right on the surface of the carpet will it tell me how hot it is?

Sometimes I think I'm worrying too much about it, but I want to make sure its just right when I get my leo...

Walmart has indoor/outdoor thermometers for about $10. The probe on the wire has double sided tape you can stick to the floor of your tank. That is where you want to get you 86 - 90 deg. don't worry to much about air temp(if you really want to raise the air temp. some try using a 20 or 40 watt bulb, lights are great for heating the air, but don't do much for floor unless you use a higher watt bulb). When they need that high temp they go to the hot side and lay in the hides there. I keep mine as close to 90 as I can. Some people prefer to stay closer to 86. Doesn't much matter as long as you are in or at close to this range on the floor (on one side only) for belly heat.
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Have a Nice Day
Andy
www.thegeckosecho.com

Since I keep my leos' terrarium in the playroom in our cellar, I use heat pads as well as a lamp that I use to give them a day/night cycle. If the leo is being kept in a well lit room, there is no need for a heat pad and a lamp. I use mealies as the staple for my leos and they are doing great. Alot of people here use mealies as the staple for their leos too.