Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I recently got a new blood 4 days a go. a little male. I was wondering about feeding when i start he has gotten more active over the last couple of days. a new hide each day. I have supplied with 3. he also just defecated today. Is this a good sign or was it bound to happen anyway? any advice for me as 1st time blood owner on these or anything concerened will be accepted. also please feel free to email me with help at cnickell@iastate.edu.

thanks
chris

Hey,
Good for you on your new purchase! The bowel movement on the first days home is a good thing, as it gives you a good chance to see whether the stool looks normal or abnormal in color and consistency. As for housing, there are lots of schools of thought on that subject with varying degrees. I would say that from my own experience with bloods and short-tails, they are best kept in a small enclosures depending on the size of the animal and age, and then as the animal grows you can start to bump the size of the cage or box up in size accordingly.

Hides are extra important for newly acquired bloods, as they can be quite intractable and nervous for the first few weeks or so. Be sure to monitor the humidity and the temperatures and that neither of them is allowed to get either too low or too high (either can have a negative effect). As for feeding, that is your call, but for a newly acquired animal I would say that feeding it during the first few days of settling in can be tricky, however, don't be dismayed if it doesn't feed as they can take a few weeks to settle in. Be sure to warm up the food if you are feeding it frozen thawed mice, and feed using a pair of tongs at least 12 inches long. You can order them from various sites and also, get them on Ebay.

As for the temperature for a small enclosure - do not allow the temperatures to exceed 80-82 f/ degrees for an ambient temperature, with a hot spot temperature of 85-90 f. An optimal humidity level or RH, should be in the 60-80 percent range and no greater than that, as too wet a cage can cause respiratory problems just as readily as dry conditions can.

If you are using an under tank heater or pad, be sure that the unit is set on a thermostat - these units can get quite hot and create temperatures that are well outside the recommended range; so be sure to monitor these heated areas carefully. If you are using a plastic sweater box, be sure to poke or drill a few holes in the side of the box for aeration. You don't want to built up stagnant air, but you do want to keep the air circulating sufficiently within the cage or box. Substrates used can vary from newspaper to cypress mulch and even sphagnum moss. Either of these are fine, however, with products like mulch and moss, you have to be careful with feeding your snake on this product as particles and large pieces can be easily ingested with the food. If you feed the snake in its cage, place some newspaper down first on the bottom, and then feed on top of the paper. The paper can then be removed after the feeding session is over.

Feeding trials should be done at night, when the snakes are most alert and apt to feed; I usually feed anytime after lights are out, with no particular time in mind - they eat anytime there after, provided they are fed what they like most: a warmed frozen thawed mouse or live prey. I prefer the aforementioned to live, but with newly acquired bloods you might at first, have to resort to starting them on live food. I think this should be enough to get you started.

Note: If there is anything I missed there will be others that will fill in the blanks. Take care and good luck!

-Angel
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Discovered and defeated of your prey, You skulked behind the fence, and sneaked away. --Dryden.

what is a normal stool like for a blood? Is it the same for other snakes? Just curious want to try and elivate as many mistakes as possible in the beginning

Hey,
If you have kept snakes in the past and remember what they look like, then you will probably know a thing or two about that. However, if you have never kept a snake, then you want to look for well formed stools, consisting of fecal matter with good solid texture and color (dark brown to black), LOL! and some urate material too, in the way of a white chalky material. If either of these seem abnormal, as in the feces looks watery and runny, with a foul odor, not that normal stool smells any better, but you will almost immediately know the difference. Urates with a yellow-greenish tinge, is not necessarily a barometer, as urates sometimes contain some yellow-greenish areas. That is normal. But, if there is blood or mucus along with the stool, with lots of putrid odor, then that could be an indication that there is something wrong, and that would warrant some looking into, by a vet.

An abnormally high bacterial load in the intestine could cause just such a thing, and a parasitic infection as well. There are a myriad of factors that can contribute to a snake producing irregular looking stools, and that can vary depending on what is affecting it. Salmonella, flagellates, nematodes, IBD, cryptosporidium, etc. are but a few.

-Angel
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Discovered and defeated of your prey, You skulked behind the fence, and sneaked away. --Dryden.

The stool looks great and i just came in from work and it appears that his shed was one piece as well i am so glad that he looks like he has taken to his new home beautifully thanks for all your help angel

chris

Hey Chris,
It was my pleasure, I'm always glad to be able to help out a fellow Blood afficianodo.

-Angel
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Discovered and defeated of your prey, You skulked behind the fence, and sneaked away. --Dryden.

Cnickle,WELCOME to the blood forum.Congratulations on your new purchase.Angel was really well said.I couldn't have said it better.Anyway your on the right track with lot's of tight hides.I use a blanket box system.My hides are filled with coconut husk or orchid chips and some moss.I don't like to drench they're hides,just moist,not damp.the back one is heat.And the front is cool.The white container is actually a water bowl.Try to wait a week before you feed her.Good luck and may the FORCE be with you,ALWAYS.

Here's another typ of set up.This type is a little harder to maintain.(keep clean)Orchid bark or coconut husk.cork bark hides,one hot one cool.deep substrate and a water bowl.(big enough to soak in)Mist the tank but not the animal directly, unless you use WARM water.Most important look at the sreen top,the side the lamp is not on.There is PEXI GLASS covering the screen for humidity.you could also use glass.Make sure there is also good ventilation.Also all the plants are plastic,so i could disinfect them.

sorry here's the pic