Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I've had my ball a couple months. He's usually reasonably active going from one spot to another. However, after some research I realized my temps/humidity were off and I had too much lighting. A few days ago I rearranged his tank so he has two hides (instead of the 1 I had) a better gradient (80-90) and better humidity (50 to 60 usually closer to 60) and also does not have any overhead lighting other than blacklight for heat. Since then, he has gone in his hide in the center of the tank, usually 80-85 degrees, and as far as I can tell he hasn't left that hide for four days except once he poked his head out and went right back. I haven't disturbed him yet... Is that normal?

I also added a small computer-type fan that circulates air 15 minutes every 1 1/2 hours just to make sure that there's fresh air. I turned that off today thinking maybe the noise from it bothered him.

Thanks
-----
Kane

Snakes (and Ball Pythons particularly) don't move much. That's normal. It takes a lot of energy for them to do anything so they save it for when they need it: digesting, hunting, finding a mate, breeding and giving birth. They're nocturnal so most movement will be at night - probably when you're asleep. But still they don't move much.

Temps and humidity sound good, but the fan is probably not needed - you're right, the vibrations from it may be disturbing your guy. If you're going to put a hide in the center, then make sure he has one on the cool side and the hot side as well. Not just the center and one side.
-----
Check Out My Albums

1.0 Ball Python
"Aragorn"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa
"Gimli"
1.0 Saharan Sand Boa
"Frodo"
0.1 Rough-Scale Sand Boa
"Arwen"
0.1 California Kingsnake
"Gentoo"
1.0 Mexican Black Kingsnake
"Indigo"

0.1 Australian Cattle Dog/Pointer
"Kira"

The reason I moved the hide was that the right side has a heating pad. When I put the hide over the heating pad, the temp goes way up. 108 last time I checked. That's why I moved it to the middle. What do you think?
-----
Kane

put a thermostat or at least a dimmer/rheostat on the hot side under tank heat source.

How do you say you have propper temp gradiant then say hides on the hot side get up to 108 deg. ??? Are you just going by ambiant air temp to base your gradiant??
If your air temps are spot on, but the substrate temps are excessive then your setup still needs some adjustments. Just some thoughts.

TomChambers

The ambient temps are fine. However, when I put the hide on the right side (over the under-tank heating pad) it gets very hot so I don't put it over it. I keep the water over the heating pad so the humidity stays right where it should.
-----
Kane

When you said you fixed the temps to give a gradient of 80 cool side and 90 warm side - where are you measuring the temps at? What substrate are you using?
-----
Check Out My Albums

1.0 Ball Python
"Aragorn"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa
"Gimli"
1.0 Saharan Sand Boa
"Frodo"
0.1 Rough-Scale Sand Boa
"Arwen"
0.1 California Kingsnake
"Gentoo"
1.0 Mexican Black Kingsnake
"Indigo"

0.1 Australian Cattle Dog/Pointer
"Kira"

I have three probe thermometers barely sticking out of the substrate each about an inch from the side of the tank. The substrate is about 1 1/2 inches of bark.
-----
Kane

Put the probes FLAT against the bottom of the cage. Bps do tend to burrow down sometimes.

Make sure the temps are 90-95 hot side and
80-85 cool side.

Put a hide over the UTH so he has a choice. If he's not going over to the "Hot side" at all, chances are it's to hot.

Get a lamp dimmer/rheostat and hook it up and "dim it" or put it to where the temps should be.
-----
1.1 Ball Python, 0.1 motley amel corn, 1.0 western hognose

Here is a brief summary of the disposition and behaviours of my two 10mnth old, CB male ball pythons. They are housed together in a display tank with overhead light heating during the day and a UTF/Cermaic heating element for the nights. There is a large hide over the UTF, a small hide mid setup and ample foliage to provide for hiding near the very large water bowl. Daytime Max - 95, Nightime Min - 75 (Daytime and nighttime temps rarely vary more than 10 degrees). Humidity Max - 80%, Min 40%.

My observations:

Speck is extremely active during the evening and night, everynight. He will even begin exploring the night of feeding. He usually roams for 6-8 hrs on a daily basis. He doesn't like to soak, but will drink often. He will usually stay in the cool side hide for the first 4 days of the shed cycle. Eats during shed cycle and sheds in one piece except for last 2" of tails (kind of odd).

Spot is shy. He spends a day or two digesting his meal in the warm side hide. He will lie inactive for an entire week during his shed cycle. After digestion he becomes active around midnight and continues to venture around through 6AM. He is approximately half as active as 'Speck'. He will occasionally soak and is rarely seen drinking. Shed completely.

They both have been housed with a waterfall that provides some vibration. During this time no visible changes occured; they fed regularly, explored according to their feeding and shed cycles and showed no other uncommon signs.

Hopefully this will show you that BPs are unique creatures. Both of mine have certain predicatable traits. They are both head tame, but react to people completely differently. I will venture to say that if you have the husbandry correct, you may have missed the 'blue phase' in your BPs shed cycle.

I wouldn't worry right now, just keep an eye out late at night, and keep us updated.

Good Luck.
-----
-Iman

1.1 Sugar Gliders (Gizmo and Nema)
2.0 Ball Pythons (Spot and Speck)
0.1 Colombian BCI (Belle)
1.0 Colombian Rainbow (Rex)
0.1 Brazilian Rainbow (On the way!)

Loving to Learn
Learning to Help
Helping to Love

Stimulate debates, stifle arguments.
Please be nice always.

Future Project Wishlist:
0.2 BP
1.0 BCI
0.1 CRB
1.0 BRB
1.1 ARB, GRB, DB & JCP

Thanks. I'm getting ready to feed him so if that goes well, I'll assume everything is ok.

By the way, what are sugar-gliders like? (off topic I know)
-----
Kane

SG`s are a PITA !!
Fragile and hard to work with in most cases,some can actually be made "pets".
Their natives of AUS. and resemble flying squirrels.
Feeding fuzzies is a wicked event )

Good luck with the feeding! Keep us posted.

Tomorrow I pick up feeders for my BPs.

The SGs are intelligent, hyperactive little guys. They love to run and play, but require lots of work... more than a dog or cat. Mine are tame and will run around all over me, bit will nip gently when they are annoyed. They are very social so they become very fond of people.

I liken them to cats... you can domesticate them, but not train them well. If you like animals and have 15mins a day you want to dedicate to them, they are fun.
-----
-Iman

1.1 Sugar Gliders (Gizmo and Nema)
2.0 Ball Pythons (Spot and Speck)
0.1 Colombian BCI (Belle)
1.0 Colombian Rainbow (Rex)
0.1 Brazilian Rainbow (On the way!)

Loving to Learn
Learning to Help
Helping to Love

Stimulate debates, stifle arguments.
Please be nice always.

Future Project Wishlist:
0.2 BP
1.0 BCI
0.1 CRB
1.0 BRB
1.1 ARB, GRB, DB & JCP

Thanks for all the suggestions. I always had the temps & humidity exactly where they should be but Violet didn't seem right. After listening to some of you I realized I didn't pay enough attention to her surroundings. I finally spent a lot of time putting plastic vines around the inside of her cage. Rearranging things to give it a more 'natural' feel. I also covered the sides & rear with a backing and even putting tinting on 2/3 of the front to keep a lot of light out. She has changed so much since I made these changes and is a much more active snake and is even less shy when taken out of her cage.
-----
Kane