Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I've heard that an adult "male" red blood python can be housed in a 4'x2' Rubbermaid container for its entire life. Is this true? How deep would it need to be? Which would make a better substrate: newspaper, paper towels, or cypress mulch? Also, I've used Vision water bowls with holes cut in them for my spotted pythons to use as cool hides. Would this work for blood pythons or do they require heavy ceramic bowls?

dude, if you can find a 4x2 rubbermaid, let me know, where they are and how I can get one.

I have 2 4'x20"x20" fake christmas tree tubs that I will be able to use when he gets a bit bigger, but for a permant cage it will probably have to be custom built.

For an adult male blood python you are going to need a custom cage. Probably out of melamine or something from neodesha, vision,or boaphile. The curve of the back when curled up can take up the 2ft wide, so you should really make a cage that is 6'x3'x2 (as their girth can reach up to 6"high).

A male I believe can get anywhere from 4-6ft, but I could be wrong.

Best bet would probably be spaghnum (sp??!) moss. As it keeps the humdidity up better than anything else.

As for a water dish, just a rubbermaid or 2 should work for an adult.
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1.1 Ball Python, 0.1 motley amel corn, 1.0 western hognose, 1.0 red blood

the largest plastic tubs made are manufactured by iris, they measure 52 x 21 x 14 high. with the lid on. they are intended for use as xmas tree storage. for the majority of male bloods, and a large percentage of female bloods, this sized cage would be adequate. as for a water bowl, you can use anything food safe that will hold water. some bloods like soaking, some dont, so if it can fit in it it might well soak, and no, soaking does not mean the snake needs more humidity! it could mean alot of things, the air is too warm or cold (water is a great buffer, and it can hold warmth longer than the surrounding air.), or that the snake is scared, has mites, just likes to soak, endless reasons.

bloods also do not like big, "open" cages. they are secretive animals by nature. having said that, a cage with 18 square feet of floor space (6 x 3 x 2), could in fact be too big for even a large female. again, i have to disagree with a comment made, "the curve of the back when curled up can take up the 2 feet wide"...now, if its just doubled over on itself that means the snake would be atleast a foot thick...keeping in mind that most of the bloods we see are overweight, remember girthy does not mean fat, 12 inches would be either an overweight blood or a very long blood. let me comment that my female red blood is a solid 4 feet at just over 2.5 years of age, decently well fed, and 3.5 to 4 inches in diameter. it is, however, very easy to make a fat blood. they sit around for days, sometimes without the slightest hint of movement. she also resides in a 4 x 2 x 1 foot cage, that will either last her till she passes on or i trade/sell her. either way, 4 x 2 is quite adequate, if she breaks the 6.5 foot mark shell be moved accordingly.

as for substrate...this is easy, very easy. newspaper. paper towels. think easy to clean, cheap to clean, and as a bonus with newspaper, its form of recycling. a substrate of moss could easily promote a huge bacterial issue. bloods can be kept just like burms, newspaper...a few hides...good food...man, id be in heaven! humidity seems to be an issue among blood keepers. some feel that they need 80% or higher humidity or theyll die. truth of the matter is...high humidity and low ventilation cause bacteria to grow. so, if the humidity is too high you stand a good chance of bacterial infections such as dermatitis (often called scale rot), resp. infections, and there are other high humidity related issues. id suggest moderate humidity (50 to 60% with a good hose down around shedding times), and good ventilation. i also supply bloods with a rubbermaid box that they can fit in, on the snug side, filled with damp moss, so if they want to be more humid they can, if not they dont have to be. bloods scales often times "dimple" when the humidity is too high. bloods are amazing snakes to work with, and i hate to criticize someone elses feelings on the subject of their keeping, but, i pay attention when people like Dave and Tracy Barker give information, and i pay very close attention to what the snakes themselves tell me, over the years its added up to some very interesting snakes (bloods carpets and scrub pythons currently) living with me. good luck,

J
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Jaymz
0.1 Apodora papuana
0.1 Aru island Morelia amethistina
0.1 Manokwari Barneck Morelia amethistina
1.1 Morelia clastolepis
1.1 Morelia spilota ssp. (irian jaya)
0.1 Morelia spliota mcdowelli
1.1 Python brongersmai
0.1 Python regius

jaymz, don't think your critisizing me. I only feel that way if you make it rude. I am new to bloods as well, and go by what I find out from other keepers!

It is nice to know they might stay in one of those iris boxs, as I've got 2! Would have to modify all the holes though (was for bp).

Thanks for the info, it's always nice to hear from people that have kept the species for a long time.

I keep my blood at about 70% humidity, your saying that keeping it at 50-60% is ok?
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1.1 Ball Python, 0.1 motley amel corn, 1.0 western hognose, 1.0 red blood

Do you know if they still make those iris tubs? If so, do they have a website? thanks,

carole

I'm pretty sure they still make them. I got some last december for my ball pythons. I don't think they have a website, atleast not that I have been able to find. But if you go to www.reptiletubs.com they have ones just like the IRIS tubs.
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1.1 Ball Python, 0.1 motley amel corn, 1.0 western hognose, 1.0 red blood

yes, iris does in fact still make those tubs. irisusainc.com, and reptiletubs.com. i need to order some myself, not for my blood tho, since i have a feeling my last blood python will soon be leaving me. theyre a great big plastic box, and would honestly suit a lot of adult bloods.

as for humidity, yes, it is always wisest to keep the general humidity in a cage on the low side, bloods are not the delicate high humidity snakes people make them out to be! i think so many of the issues people have had with bloods is keeping them too humid. so yes, as a general humidity 50 to 60% works very well, i used to keep a box full of moist moss in with them too, but, ive found that with bloods its not really needed. however, when it comes time for a shed i do bump the humodoty up to 90% for a few hours a day till they shed. as dave barker once said (regarding humidity), id rather deal with a stuck shed (the result of low humidity) than with a snake that is ill (the result of high humidity). because unless you have incredibly low humidity the only realy issue youll have to deal with is a stuck shed. my first, and now only, blood python will be 3 this year, ive kept her pretty much the exact same way, tho, ny winters are very very dry, and ive NEVER had a stuck shed, illness, or other malady to contend with. in general when kept properly, ya know, not too humid, not to dry, not too hot, not too cold, ive found bloods to be extremely hardy animals.

sapphire, i would leave whatever holes youve made in the large tubs the way they are, bloods need good ventilation, if anything, i might add a few more holes. unless of course you made them in the lid, then id find a way to plug up all the holes in the lid and drill or use a soldering iron to make holes along the sides of the tubs. i tend to drill/melt most of my holes toward the bottom of the tub, convection pulls in fresh air without allowing all the heat to escape thru holes at the top, its worked very well for me, i do drill a few holes around the top too, to let out stale air. i have a feeling if / when i trade or sell off my last blood ill miss them terribly, but, as much as i love bloods, scrub pythons are where my heart truely is,,,hmmm scrubs, yet another misunderstood, and bad mouthed species complex, kinda like bloods...only not so easy to reproduce! good luck, glad i can help, i love to share information!

J
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Jaymz
0.1 Apodora papuana
0.1 Aru island Morelia amethistina
0.1 Manokwari Barneck Morelia amethistina
1.1 Morelia clastolepis
1.1 Morelia spilota ssp. (irian jaya)
0.1 Morelia spliota mcdowelli
1.1 Python brongersmai
0.1 Python regius