Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Well... my little baby BRB that I got last Thursday is sick! Here's the story...
I contacted the seller by email, the day after I got him, to let him know that the snake was making "popping" noises. He said the snake wasn't sick. My husband swears that the first night, when we were looking at him, he saw a "bubble" come from his nostril. I didn't see that... THEN.
So, I went a few days, and then tried to feed the little one, and I asked some questions on this forum about his refusal to eat. Each day, I was checking him... listening to him closely, to see if I could hear any gurgling. No gurgling... just a "pop" every once in a while.
Well, then he started going into "blue"... and then I thought, "hmmm... the noises are coming from loose skin or something around his nostrils..." I also heard "whistling"... every once in a while (not every breath). Still, no runny discharge.
My husband emailed the seller... and was a little upset... we received an email back from him, saying he STILL didn't think the snake was sick, but we could send him back for a full refund, if we wanted to. That's all NICE and everything... but, I want this snake!!!!!
Tonight, I wanted to change the paper towels in his cage, and when I looked at him... there it was... mucus, barely bubbling out of one nose hole, about every-other breath. I know it was mucus, because I touched it.
NOW I'M REALLY WORRIED!
I have written before about my setup... temps on warm side 83degrees, cool side 72-75... I've been keeping it sprayed down, especially because of the shed. I haven't upped the temps, because I read that I wasn't supposed have it above 85.
I can pretty much guarantee there isn't a vet in this town that deals with herps... although, I'm sure my pet's vet would give me whatever meds I need.
Please help. Let me know if I should up the temps... should I keep the humidity up? (he's in shed)
I'm scared, because I've never dealt with this before... my other snakes have been really healthy. Oh, and he isn't "around" my other snakes, but across the room. Could he be contagious?
Thanks, in advance
Mindy

Sounds like a respritory infection. Bump the temps up to 88 on the hot side. Most often a little heat will work wonders. If it still has a respritory after a week, see if you can get Baytril injections from your vet. Try the heat first because Baytril is injected Intra muscular and can cause permanent discoloration where it was injected (usually black). Inject in the upper third of the body to avoid liver or kidney damage and inject in an area that is already black. Try the heat first and keep us posted.

I would send it back. If he can't replace it with a healthy one then maybe you can buy one from Sunshine or Jeff when they have their respective litters.

Don't get me wrong, THIS IS a live animal industry, and no matter how good you are, some animals are just going to have problems...but, the seller has an obligation(wheather impied or written) to provide a healthy animal. Don't send them a message that it's okay to send unhealthy aniamls...or it may become the standard for that seller...

I believe the VERY VAST majority of the people in this hobby have the best intentions, but, some only care about the $$$.

YOU should not get stuck with a vet bill if the animals condition is not your doing...and I believe it is not.

OR....you might try this. Tell the seller you are going to take the animal to the vet...if there is nothing wrong (THERE IS) then you will pay the bill, no problem. If the animal is ill, he reimburses you for the vet visit and prescribed medication.
I suggest this because as a seller and a buyer, I would agree to this compromise.

This is just my opinion, I would like to hear others on this subject...it's one that doesn't get discussed enough...for as much as it happens...

Take Care, Chris
-----
www.chrisolsonreptiles.com

Chris,
. When I sell a snake to someone if they have any problem with it I want to get the snake back as quickly as possible. I provide a full refund if the buyer has a problem with a snake I have recently sold. I do not do this to protect my reputation or make the customer happy. I do it because I want to get the snake where I can see it and figure out what, if anything is wrong and get it the proper treatment quickly. I do not want the snake to go to a Veterinarian I do not know. Some vets know alot about snakes and provide good treament. Many vets do not even know what a Rainbow Boa is, much less that it has very different husbandry requirements than most other boids. I do not think it is fair to expect the seller to pay vet bills to a vet that may not know as much about the snake as the seller does. I know the person who sold this snake to Mindy. He is one of the good guys in the business. His offer to provide a full refund to get the snake back is the level of service which all reptile sellers should provide.
Jeff

>>I would send it back. If he can't replace it with a healthy one then maybe you can buy one from Sunshine or Jeff when they have their respective litters.
>>
>>Don't get me wrong, THIS IS a live animal industry, and no matter how good you are, some animals are just going to have problems...but, the seller has an obligation(wheather impied or written) to provide a healthy animal. Don't send them a message that it's okay to send unhealthy aniamls...or it may become the standard for that seller...
>>
>>I believe the VERY VAST majority of the people in this hobby have the best intentions, but, some only care about the $$$.
>>
>>YOU should not get stuck with a vet bill if the animals condition is not your doing...and I believe it is not.
>>
>>OR....you might try this. Tell the seller you are going to take the animal to the vet...if there is nothing wrong (THERE IS) then you will pay the bill, no problem. If the animal is ill, he reimburses you for the vet visit and prescribed medication.
>>I suggest this because as a seller and a buyer, I would agree to this compromise.
>>
>>This is just my opinion, I would like to hear others on this subject...it's one that doesn't get discussed enough...for as much as it happens...
>>
>>Take Care, Chris
>>-----
>>www.chrisolsonreptiles.com

Jeff,

I'm sure the person who sold this animal is a fine person, but from what Mindy has said, it doesn't sound like he believes that the animal is ill. My first suggestion is always to send back the animal. I suggested the second option because he doesn't belive the animal is sick. If the animal is sick, it will likely cost him less to pay for a Vet. visit than to replace it...after all, she said she wants to keep that particular snake. If she takes it to Vet. and there is nothing wrong with it...the seller shouldn't have to pay for anything. As for not trusting a Vet. you don't know...I doubt there is anyone that knows more about Epicrates than you, and she did say it would be hard to find a reptile vet in her area, but, If she's going to keep reptiles she's going to have to find one eventually that she trusts. I had the same problem, and I had to ask around, but I found two.

I agree with you about wanting to get the animal back in your care asap, but I do feel, from what Mindy has told us about her situation, that the Vet. option is a reasonable choice. Again, just my opinion, and I appreciate yours.

Take care, Chris
-----
www.chrisolsonreptiles.com

Thats true, the animal did not come up with a resperatory overnight! I'm not saying the seller intentionally sold you a sick animal though. If he/she did not make daily observations of the animal or it was not handled, he/she may not have detected it. The animal would hve been holding its head up, mouth gaping, bubbling or whistleing. If you really have to keep that particular animal at least get some money back to cover meds. And its so true, not all vets are knowledgable about reptiles but will take your money! Good reptile vets are few and far between! I've lost a few very pricey animals to bad vets and have been treating my animals myself for years now. Good luck, Bill

First off let me quickly state I have no experience with meds.

Let me tell you however that during my first time owning a herp, my inexperience let my Ball Python succumb to a R.I.

As soon as I noticed something was wrong, I went into "extra care mode" and did numerous hours of research.

Here is what I learned for the experience:

-The R.I. IS a result of husbandry errors.
-Raise the heat and try to keep it above 85 both day and night.
-The R.I. will take more than a week to go away, reptiles have longer bouts with their diseases.
-Your snake may or may not shed, and it may or may not eat. It depends on the current situation of the day.
-Do not be alarmed if your snake doesn't eat for two weeks.
-If you have the capability, please take your snake to a vet. If not, change the housing, ASAP. Get a smaller, preferably plastic tub, where you can control heat and humidity better for the time being.

These animals are nature's workhorses. They mostly pull through. If you make a concerted effort to change the housing and environment, your snake should survive unharmed.

I suggest now you follow your gut and ask very detailed and specific questions for Jeff, Sunshine, and Chris to answer. They are fantastic.

Good luck.
-----
-Iman
1.1 Sugar Gliders (Gizmo and Nema)
2.0 Ball Pythons (Spot and Speck)
0.1 Colombian BCI (Belle)
1.0 Colombian Rainbow (Rex)
0.1 Brazilian Rainbow (Just arrived!!!)

Loving to Learn
Learning to Help
Helping to Love

Stimulate debates, stifle arguments.
Please be nice always.



Imans House of Herps

Ok... I've been talking with my husband about this situation, and we are afraid that if we send the snake BACK, he will get sicker, because of being stressed again with shipping. Right now, he's still actively flicking his tongue, the mucus can only be seen if you look VERY closely at his nostrils, and there is no wheezing (just a "pop" every now and then). He is laying normally - doesn't seem to be raising his head, and he hasn't been breathing through his mouth. I think his infection is at a stage where we could help him, and though I respect the fact that you all think we should send him back, I'm afraid to do that... because right now, he has a chance. If I send him back, I think his chances will diminish... just because of the stress on him.
So, I'd like to try to help him, if possible.
I have no ill feelings toward the person I bought him from... as he offered to give me a full-refund. I have heard nothing but good things about his business, and I was not in any way trying to "slam" him. I just need HELP... and you guys are IT!
I have looked online for information, and for some reason, there isn't a lot of info on BRB's and RI's... and what to do if they have one.
Right now, I'd like husbandry advice. Although I know I have his set-up at the temps and humidity that they should be NORMALLY, do I need to change that? I've upped the temps slightly, but what about the humidity? And when do I resort to antibiotics?
I am dedicated to helping this snake. I don't really care about the money. Please help me do so!
Thanks so much... you guys are great!

Mindy

If your going to keep him, the time for antibiotic treatment is now. Many species will "kick" it on their own with elevated temperature...but you don't want to raise the temp. too much with BRB's...especially one so young...I don't think I would go above 88 degrees farheneit. As for your humidity question - You don't need to change it, as long as you are consistently staying in the standard range for BRB's. Remember, low humidity can cause respitory problems as well.

Keep us posted, Chris
-----
www.chrisolsonreptiles.com

I think that we could all learn from this experience, so long as YOU have to decided you are going to try to help your animal.

Jeff, Chris, Sunshine... please post all of your knowledge with BRB RIs, during the process I will try to compile everything best I can will put together a bit of detail on my website for future reference.

These are things that I would do in your situation:

Husbandry Changes
-----------------------
Use an opaque, small rubbermaid type tub (shoebox size) with damp paper towels for substrate. Try your best to keep the temps between 85-90 at all times. (Works best when your house is kept at a standard temp all day/night). Aim for 90% humidity all the time.
-----
-Iman
1.1 Sugar Gliders (Gizmo and Nema)
2.0 Ball Pythons (Spot and Speck)
0.1 Colombian BCI (Belle)
1.0 Colombian Rainbow (Rex)
0.1 Brazilian Rainbow (Just arrived!!!)

Loving to Learn
Learning to Help
Helping to Love

Stimulate debates, stifle arguments.
Please be nice always.



Imans House of Herps

I have no personal experience with any disease process in reptiles. I have thus far been fortunate to not experience RI except for my thank God long lost roommate and her neglected giant burmese that was very sick with RI. Now that I think of it...she still owes me for the amikacin injections I fearfully gave it before it died.

If you are in good standing with a vet, just ask to buy the injections. Also, I've not seen it mentioned on the forums nor do I know it's effectiveness in reptiles, but baytril can be purchased as a suspension for oral use.

Good luck,
Linda

Mindy,
. My help for you is limited because I have never had to medicate a little BRB. Mine never get serious respiratory problems. When they do rarely get a little bit "sniffly" a week of slightly warmer temps and continued high humidity usually brings them around. Be careful raising temps with little BRBs. If they are kept above 88 with no cooler area in their cages to retreat to they can quickly become dehydrated and die. I have had good luck treating respiratory infections in adult BRBs using Amikacin intramuscular injections. For the first dose I inject 5 milligrams of Amikacin per KG of body weight. Then 2.5 mg of Amikacin per kg of body weight every 3 days for a total of seven doses. Make the injections with a small needle (25 gauge is good)in the forward half of the snake's body in the muscular area on either side of the backbone. Alternate the injections sites so that the antibiotic does not kill tissue at the injection site. Do not stop the injections early even if the snake seems to be doing okay because the bacteria causing the infection may become antibiotic resistant if allowed to survive a partial treatment regimen. Amikacin is a prescription medication and is available in two strengths: 50mg per ml and 250mg per ml. The 50mg per ml strength would be best for measuring a small dose for a small animal. Antibiotics are hard on kidneys. Reptiles have relatively inefficient kidneys and clear antibiotics more slowly than mammals. The actual printed on the bottle recommended dosages for treating mammals with Amikacin are 10mg per kg of body weight twice per day. Dosages for reptiles have to be lower because of slower renal clearance of antibiotics. Snakes that are sick will often quit drinking and become dehydrated. This is exactly the worst thing for them to do when you are treating them with antibiotics because you want lots of fluids passing through the kidneys to clear the antibiotics and the dead bacteria and the bacterial cell parts. Snakes being treated with antibiotics often have to be soaked in water or have fluids forced with a syringe and tube so that they do not become dehydrated.
Good luck,
Jeff

>>Ok... I've been talking with my husband about this situation, and we are afraid that if we send the snake BACK, he will get sicker, because of being stressed again with shipping. Right now, he's still actively flicking his tongue, the mucus can only be seen if you look VERY closely at his nostrils, and there is no wheezing (just a "pop" every now and then). He is laying normally - doesn't seem to be raising his head, and he hasn't been breathing through his mouth. I think his infection is at a stage where we could help him, and though I respect the fact that you all think we should send him back, I'm afraid to do that... because right now, he has a chance. If I send him back, I think his chances will diminish... just because of the stress on him.
>>So, I'd like to try to help him, if possible.
>>I have no ill feelings toward the person I bought him from... as he offered to give me a full-refund. I have heard nothing but good things about his business, and I was not in any way trying to "slam" him. I just need HELP... and you guys are IT!
>>I have looked online for information, and for some reason, there isn't a lot of info on BRB's and RI's... and what to do if they have one.
>>Right now, I'd like husbandry advice. Although I know I have his set-up at the temps and humidity that they should be NORMALLY, do I need to change that? I've upped the temps slightly, but what about the humidity? And when do I resort to antibiotics?
>>I am dedicated to helping this snake. I don't really care about the money. Please help me do so!
>>Thanks so much... you guys are great!
>>
>>Mindy

Well, I emailed the seller... explained to him that I am going to try to make this snake well... and asked him for any advice he can give me.
I am going to contact my vet tomorrow. Obtain some antibiotics... you all have discussed two different kinds of medicine... Baytril and Amikacin. Which would be better to use, and will the Amikacin cause permanent discoloration? I don't really care, as long as this little guy lives - but, if I can AVOID it, I will.
He seems a little more lively tonight... and there seems to be less mucus. I hope the higher temps are helping. It's right around 90 on the "hot" side... but I left him room on the other side, at around 78, to get away from the heat. I sprayed him down real good and "tucked him in" for the night. My mothering insticts are on... full force!
Thank you all so much. I feel good, knowing there are people on here that care. I browse a lot of forums, and this is the best one there is, IMHO.
Mindy

Mindy,
. I have not used Baytril. From what I have read I think it is more likely to cause necrotic trauma at the injection site than Amikacin. I have never had a lasting scar on any of my snakes from Amikacin injections. You may not need any antibiotics. I have said this before and will repeat it at the risk of sounding tiresome but 99% of snake health problems are husbandry related and most can be treated best by correcting the husbandry. Do you know what temps. the snake was exposed to during shipping and what the temp. and humidity have been in his cage at your house?
Jeff

>>Well, I emailed the seller... explained to him that I am going to try to make this snake well... and asked him for any advice he can give me.
>>I am going to contact my vet tomorrow. Obtain some antibiotics... you all have discussed two different kinds of medicine... Baytril and Amikacin. Which would be better to use, and will the Amikacin cause permanent discoloration? I don't really care, as long as this little guy lives - but, if I can AVOID it, I will.
>>He seems a little more lively tonight... and there seems to be less mucus. I hope the higher temps are helping. It's right around 90 on the "hot" side... but I left him room on the other side, at around 78, to get away from the heat. I sprayed him down real good and "tucked him in" for the night. My mothering insticts are on... full force!
>>Thank you all so much. I feel good, knowing there are people on here that care. I browse a lot of forums, and this is the best one there is, IMHO.
>>Mindy

Try raising the heat first. I would not go over 88 degrees as I have heard of Brazilians that have succombed to temps at 92 degrees! I'm assuming its a neonate and they are very sensitive to dehydration with low humidity. I have had great success with Baytril but it will discolor the area. I have not used amicacin as much and it was always with the larger pythons. Jeff is right, try and correct it with the husbandry.There are only a few antiobiotics out there and animals do develope antibiotic resistance meaning an antibiotic that worked great on an animal the first time used will lose some effectiveness the next time used. I use antibiotics as a last resort for this reason.Your case does not sound advanced as you have witnessed no gaping of thr mouth which would indicate that the nasal passages were completely blocked. We all tend to call anything a respiratory that has to do with the lungs but snakes do get colds too, especially when exposed to other animals at the dealer combined with the stresses of shipping and drastic temperature changes that go along with it. Raise the heat to 88, increase humidity and keep us posted!

The snake was shipped from Florida to Western Maryland. There were no heat packs in his box, he was packed well, and was in a deli cup with a small piece of damp paper towel. I would be guessing about his temps, but the temps in my town were in the mid 60's the day he arrived. I would assume it was much warmer in Florida. So, a gradual drop in temps the day of delivery. In the past, when ordering snakes from a breeder in Missouri, he would put a digital thermometer in the box with the snake... that would record high and low temps (so I would know), and I would ship the thermometer back to him after receiving the snake.
Anyway... I had his enclosure ready when he got "home", and took the day off work to monitor his temps.
Right now, humidity is somewhere between 90-100% (after getting to a certain point, it just reads "HI". Temps 88 warm, 77 cool. He has been staying on the warm side (I hope that's a good thing), but has the ability to cool down if he needs to. I'm going to take a few pics of his enclosure tonight... to send to the person I bought him from (he is willing to help me), and I will also post them on here. Maybe you'll see something I'm doing wrong.
I appreciate ya,
Mindy

Temps and humidity sound perfect. The temps shouldn't of been that crucial depending on if he was indeed shipped in a heated compartment. They always say they do but sometimes end up unheated in the belly of a plane! Sometimes stress is more to blame than temperature. Temp and stress just compounds the matter. Keep up what you are doing and keep us posted. When you don't see or hear any more fluids in the nasal passage, give it a shot and try to feed him. It can't eat unless it can breath through the nose.

I appreciate all your help! I will keep you all posted!
Mindy

I'm sure he'll be fine and your welcome. Keep us posted. Bill

I came home from work a little early, and he's worse.
I've made an appointment with my vet this evening... I'll probably wait forever to get in.
Anyway, he breathed through his mouth a few times... and it's sticky inside.
I'm stressed, and upset, and a little pssst-off.

Here's pics of the setup.

Mindy

.

This is the thermometer... keep in mind I had the lid off for a few minutes... and that cooled it down a bit.

He removed a bunch of goo from his mouth, and gave him an injection of gentamicin sulfate. He wants me to bring him back on Wednesday and Friday for a total of 3 injections... he also asked me to keep his mouth clear...
Anyone heard of this medication?
I'm worried.
My vet says he has dealt with snakes before, but I don't know how much he really knows.
As far as the meds, I printed some of the info you all gave me, and took it with me.
He said the Baytril would leave permanent marks, and possibly scar him, and that the Amikacin would be harder on his kidney's. I don't know.
I've read a little about this medication, and it says to keep them hydrated. How do I do that?
Also, the breeder I bought him from said my enclosure had too much condensation... that I needed better airflow. He also said to put him on dry substrate, with just a water bowl available, and see if he improves. I moved him to a shoebox sized container, and all that is in there is paper towels and a water dish. I did not spray it down.
Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mindy

Amikacin is a third generation form of gentocin. Gentocin should do just fine however I believe it to be equally hard on kidneys. In mammals it is pretty safe if there is good urine production. You can almost always get by with it once, but in old or dehydrated animals it is crucial not to overdose and maintain at least adequate fluid intake.

Be advised by others, but I would not allow the humidity to become too low during the treatment.

Linda

Do you recommend I mist his enclosure?

Right now, with just the water dish over the warm side, the humidity is reading "HI" on my digi thermometer...

But, I'm concerned about keeping him hydrated.
I'd love to hear what others have to say also.

I feel like a pain in the butt, and I apologize for freaking out about this... I'm just worried.

Thanks,
Mindy

I'd wait for the others to reply. I don't think waiting 24 hours will harm. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Linda

This Vet. gave you good advice...for a Ball Python. I doubt he is familiar with rainbow boas...and their more immediate need for humidity. If you think he's in bad shape now...wait until he's dehydrated. When you go back on Wednesday, bring some of your BRB husbandry research with you to show the Vet...not to show him up, but to illustrate why the "dry" advice concerns you.

To keep him hydrated, maintain the standard humidity requirments. You can also soak him for an hour a day. Make sure the water is a comfortable temperature. Comfortable for the snake would be the same temperature as the median air temperature in his enclosure. I've heard of that medication...but it was in the context of an ill uromastix...and it ended up fine...not that that is relevant...but it does seem like your Vet. has worked with snakes before, from the "kidney" remark.

Take care, Chris

Hi Chris,

It is the BREEDER telling me to keep him dry. The vet actually told me to give him humidity.

Right now, in his little shoebox, the humidity is high, just from the water bowl over the heat source. But, I haven't sprayed him down, and I haven't dampened the paper towels.

I want to do the right thing.

Keeping him DRY doesn't seem like the right thing to do. I believe in humidity as one the keys to BRB health. Drying him out comes with its own set of health problems.

Chris

You definately need to keep the humidity HIGH and warm. Even healthy BRB's are very succeptable to dehydration problems and due to their small size, dehydration can occur rapidly. With any of these medications it can cause kidney and or liver damage if the animal is dehyrated. I would situate a bowl in which he could soak, maybe placed partly iver the heat strip to keep it warmer or to soak him as suggested for an hour or so a couple of times a day. I would also make sure that there is some type of airflow cut into the top and covered with screen. This is to promote air exchange as you are creating an invoroment that can promote bacteria growth.And finally, make sure he is injecting in the upper third of the body to prevent liver or kidney damage.

Then I'll leave you all alone.

I feel bad for posting about this snake so many times already!

I would like to have specific information on heat, humidity, keeping the snake hydrated, and the medication (that's not asking much, huh? ), and then I promise to leave you all alone.

If this snake makes it through this, I have all of you to thank. Actually, I thank you all either way. I appreciate your kindness, and the fact that you didn't jump on me for doing something wrong...

You are a great bunch!

Mindy

Mindy,
. I think you are in the middle of a situation where several people are giving you different advice. The seller and I both encouraged you to return the snake for a refund. I think you have made a choice to go with a veterinarian and should follow his directions. He has seen the snake and we have not. The internet is great but no amount of words here can measure up against actually seeing the snake. You are spending money with the vet and if you are not going to follow his advice the money is wasted. If the snake does have a serious infection and need antibiotics you are likely not going to be able to get good antibiotics as soon as they are needed without going to a vet. I have used Gentamicin on human patients and used to use it on snakes. Amikacin is contraindicated in humans with mild to moderate infections and is recommended for severe infections. Gentamicin is recommended for many severe infections. Gentamicin is contraindicated in human medicine for patients with severe renal disease and should be used with caution in patients with mild renal disease. Amikacin also has precautions about using with renal problems. It seems to me that Amikacin is the stronger antibiotic and that is why I use it but I use it only when I am sure a snake has a serious problem. Minor respiratory problems usuaully respond to slightly warmer temperatures and high humidity. Your problem is that you are not sure whether the snake has a serious problem or not. And we cannot tell for sure without seeing the snake. I do think you should ask the vet if he has done cultures and antibiotic sensitivity tests. There is a best antibiotic to use against specific bacteria but you need to know what bacteria are involved in an infection to pick the best antibiotic.
Good luck,
Jeff

>>Then I'll leave you all alone.
>>
>>I feel bad for posting about this snake so many times already!
>>
>>I would like to have specific information on heat, humidity, keeping the snake hydrated, and the medication (that's not asking much, huh? ), and then I promise to leave you all alone.
>>
>>If this snake makes it through this, I have all of you to thank. Actually, I thank you all either way. I appreciate your kindness, and the fact that you didn't jump on me for doing something wrong...
>>
>>You are a great bunch!
>>
>>Mindy

I owe everyone a great big "thank you" for taking your time to try to help me with my new addition.
Hopefully, with a compilation of your advice, and the help of my vet, we'll be able to help this guy through.
As I said, I've never seen a snake with RI before, and I hope I never have to again... I can't say if the infection is "severe" or not, because I don't really know myself. All I know is he is sick, and I am hoping to be able to bring him out of it.
I don't regret my decision to keep him, simply because he is a living creature, who needs a little extra care. I don't care about the money... and I believe sending him back would've stressed him more.
I hope he pulls through. If not, at least I know I've tried my hardest to do what he needs.
Again, I appreciate all of your responses - if he does pull through, it is mostly because of you guys.
I don't need any responses to this message, and I will leave this alone now. I just wanted to say how much you are appreciated.

Sincerely,
Mindy

Hey Mindy-

I just got online tonight and read through this whole thread, you seem quite eager to care for your herps, congratulations!

I would recommend for your enclosure keeping the substrate dry but having humid hides available. I keep my BRBs at 86warm and 78cool with 90 humidity. I accomplish this by having dry newspaper on the bottom with two smaller rubbermaids with a large hole in the side to enter. Inside the hides I pile shredded newspaper that is soaked and then wrung out. One is placed on each end and the snakes move back and forth as they please... sometimes also hiding under the dry paper (perhaps to avoid such a humid spot at times?)

This is only my suggestion, but would allow for high ambient humidity yet not constant contact with wet paper.

Good Luck!
Brent Strande