I don't have the technological skill to post a picture so let me describe my tegu tank. It is 9.5 feet long, 3 feet wide, and about 3 feet tall. Plywood was too expensive so I used OSB board (the stuff with the big chips). It comes in 4 by 8 sheets like plywood. There is a "frame" of 2x2's on the side seams, holding bottom to side, and side to side. I built a frame to hold the top out of 2x4s and ran joists on 1 foot centers. This baby is over built.
I have 2 - 2tube flourescent shop fixtures in the tank with 4 Reptisun 8.0 bulbs. These are my day lights. I have them on an Intermatic ss7c timer that is wired into the tank. I have a 250 watt red heat light wired into a rheostat that controls the heat. This stays on all the time and can be adjusted as needed.
There are 2 recepticals(plug ins) wired in so I don't have to climb over the tank to plug something in.
The front of my tank is where the pegboard is. There are two pieces of pegboard approximately 3 feet tall by 16 inches on either side of a 6 foot sliding glass door. The door channel was expensive 8-9 dollars a running foot. The sliding glass is two pieces approximately 22 inches x 3 feet.
The tank, including pegboard was painted. Electrical boxes were wired into the pegboard to house the rheostat, timer, and recepticals.
Almost all the materials can be purchased at your local lumber yard. I had to hunt for the timer once I found what one would control flourescent lights. I tried a different Intermatic timer and it would not keep time with flourescent lights.
The pegboard works and I would be comfortable using it again. On my snake tanks they will probably be all pegboard with partial screen top. The light and heat will be outside the tank for them. Pegboard can be painted. I turns a deep rich color when clear urethane is applied. Most importantly, it is tegu proof.
I hope this helps.
Mike B
