Reptile & Amphibian Forums

They don't require ANY heat? So I could set up a nice rack system with absolutely NO heat tape or anything? That sounds reasonable. I'll have to look into these guys at the Arizona show this Saturday...what makes these snakes good besides that?

I too will be going to the AZ reptile show this Saturday. I have read and heard that black milks don't need heating of any kind or lights. They are suppose to get to around 5-6 foot and are gengle as adults. Good feeding response. The change from young to mature is suppose to be amazing. I saw one at the Tucson show last year and he was beautiful. A snake that need no heat is for me since I don't want to over load the electricity.

These snakes do fine at room temperature. They are sharp looking tri colors as babies and gradually lose all or most of that coloration and turn into large glossy black adults. They are not as squirmy as other milks can be as babies which is a big plus too. Mine never musk or bite but if they're hungry it is obvious and you do have to watch your fingers just like any other snake. They have become much more affordable recently too. I also keep Mexican Pines, Deppei Deppei and Deppei Jani which also thrive at room temps. It is great to have some of these snakes in your collection because as far as care and maintenance go......it doesn't get much easier. There's no special requirements. Just an adequately sized cage which is escape proof, clean water and a proper meal 1 or 2 times a week. When I first wanted Black Milks they cost about 500 bucks a snake. Now you can get babies for 150 or less. You may get lucky and get one even cheaper at the show. Good luck Tom

I have 1.1 black milks. The male will be 2 years old in August '04, and the female is about a month younger. Both are descended from San Antonio Zoo stock. They are each kept in a 30-gallon breeder size tank with screen cover. Although I had heard they do not need supplemental heat, I give them each a heated corner (85° F), which provides a gradient of 85° to 70°F. There is a hide on each side of the gradient, as well as water on the cool side.

Both snakes have spent time in the heated side of their tanks, but curiously enough, the male has a much greater affinity for the heat than does the the female. He can be found in or around the heated spot in his cage about 70% of the time. She, on the other hand, can be found in the heated spot in her cage only about 15% of the time.

The male was the first one I bought, and I didn't immediately provide him with heat (due to all I read about their not needing or wanting heat). His appetite was poor, however. On good advice, I provided a thermal gradient for him, and his appetite was stimulated as if by the flick of a switch!

-- It could be that he is just a weirdo for his breed, but I thought I'd share the observation nonetheless.

They are beautiful and calm, as described. If you see them at a local show, I'd definitely recommend them. (I've only ever seen one at our Raleigh, NC show, and it wasn't for sale. That was about a year and a half ago, and I haven't seen one there since then, neither for sale nor as a display-animal.

The one I encountered at that show, however, was a fully-black, large adult male, and it was inspiring enough to make me seek them out elsewhere. (I ended up getting the two I have via mail order.)
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David Leary,
Durham, NC

I maintain a pair of black milks. The no supplemental heating applies only if the room temperature is not too low... as long as the temp is at least in the mid to high 70's during a portion of each day and remains 70F or above most of the time, then I wouldn't recommend any heating. Mine do have a heated area due to the design of the rack system, but they stay completely away from the heat. They seem to avoid temp in the 80's or above.

Anyway, the adults are very calm and docile based upon my limited experience with them. My pair is '02 and have been limit fed, so they're only 3-3.5 feet and lean... they don't like to be messed with (touched, picked up), but they don't bite at all. I fully expect them to calm down a lot more once they approach 5 feet and thicken up. I've recently increased they're feeding regimen significantly... to their obvious enjoyment.

The feeding response is the most rewarding thing about these guys. Feeding comes and goes in a matter of seconds. Also, their feces is not foul smelling... I spot clean the aspen once a month or so. The easiest snakes I've kept so far... and I've kept dozens of species.

I just purchased a young male and am looking for a young female now as well. The breeder may have fed his live, but I've only offered f/t. He is very fast and squirmy. When I initially fed, he was so intent on getting out of the feed box I would tease with the thawed peach fuzzy to get his attention. He would latch on and start thrashing about for a minute or two. The last time I fed he didn't thrash but bit it HARD and held on. My other 2 snakes are corns and they never latch on like that. I was just wondering if they normally constrict or kill prey by biting/blunt force trauma?

The Mexican Black Kingsnake is a good choice and cheaper. Either way they are beautiful snakes!!

Jason

I see a lot of folks calling black milks, poor mans indigos!