>>i bought most of my supplies today all from bigapplerherp.com i bought a zoo-med powersun mercury vapor bulb, two thermometer with single probe, repcal calcium with D3, and also repcal multi vitamin. and i bought a 40 gallon breeder a couple of days ago what else do i need? if possible supply links to the recommended supplies oh and one last thing where does every one recommend to buy a bearded dragon? thanks
Necessities:
1: uVa-uVb bulb and housing that runs the entire length of the enclosure.
2: A ceramic basking lamp and two good basking bulbs, (for 40-gal. tanks, I recommend getting a 75wt. and a 100wt. More on this later...).
3: Non-impacting, non-calcium laden subtrate suitable for desert lizards (you could conceivably just get tank carpeting like I did, just be ready to clean it more than once a week).
4: A half-log to bask on and hide in when temps are their highest, as well as other little shelters and "jungle-gyms" to keep your beardie happy (get a nice leather hammock for those lazy days of summer...
).
5: Plug outlet timers.
6: A digital termometer with inside and outside gauge settings.
7: A HYDROMETER, very important for gauging humidity levels (get the gold one that has a frog on the face).
8: GUTLOAD for whatever prey (crickets, mealies, etc...) you're going to be using as staple food.
9: Calcium dust for said staple food.
10: Vitamin dust for lizards to put in his/her greens to promote good nutrition.
11: Shallow water and food dishes that your beardie can climb into and out of. Some people don't recommend getting water dishes, but I feel that it's always good to keep one handy for when you're not around, and beardies usually like to wade and swim around in it anyway.
12: Spray-bottle or "spritzer".
Set up your tank accordingly...
1: Subtrate needs to be enough for a beardie to dig around in, unless you decide on carpet, paper-towels, or other cleanable surfaces.
2: Set your ceramic lamp up on top of the cage with the 100wt. bulb in first, then place the half-log (or other suitable basking spot) directly underneath the spot-lamp. I believe the distance between the base of the bulb and the top of the basking spot should not exceed 12 in., and should not be any closer than 8 in. Also set up the uV bulb and housing along the back of the tank.
3: Place the wand of the digital thermometer right under the basking light to get full exposure.
4: Set up the wall-timers to 12-hour intervals, and plug in the lamps.
5: Let the lamps run for this interval, taking notes on highest and lowest temps achieved, as well as night-time temps. If the 100wt. bulb is too hot (over 110 deg.), switch to the 75wt. bulb, and take the 100wt. bulb back to the petstore for a refund.
6: Don't forget to arrange your food and water dishes as approptiate for the tank. Try to keep the dishes in the best "foot-path" for your beardie, as mine dips his head in to take a drink almost every time he walks through it.
7: Set up the hydrometer in the back of the tank, and keep a record of humidity levels. If the humidity goes above 60%, think strongly about getting a de-humidifier for inside the tank (they have mini one's available on eBay).
One last bit, always try to get your beardie from a breeder. That way you have a reasonable guarantee of its good health and wellfare from the get-go. You can also go with specialty petstores, like one's that specifically cater to lizards and amphibians, but try to avoid chain stores, as you never know where the beardies are coming from.
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Dl