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First rack - I would like everyones opinion, ( kinda long )

toddg Jun 14, 2004 04:41 PM

Hi all,

I plan to build my first rack by the end of Summer. It will be specifically for my BPs and I am leaning towards housing 8 adults. I would like to incorporate housing for hatchlings as well. Now, should I go with a tower housing each box vertically, or make it wider with fewer levels? I would like to ask everyone to post a pic or two of your rack/s to give me design ideas. Also, please share design stratedgies for heating and anyhting else worth mentioning. This will be most helpful. As a man I can not make decisions for myself, LOL!!!

TIA,
Toddg

Above was my original post regarding housing which I posted on the bp forum. I was told to try this forum since the people here are much kinder and quick to help.

A few things to note:

1) I have about $200.00 to spend. I would like a thermostat and I do not need to puchase but a few tubs now. I am mainly concerned with housing the most snakes for the money.

2) I will not need to house hatchlings in this enclosure.

3) How effective is heat run down the back of the rack instead of under the tubs?
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1.1 Balls - Male het/albino, Female 66% het/albino
***Fingers crossed for next season!!!***

Replies (6)

chris_harper2 Jun 14, 2004 05:33 PM

Whether you build your rack maximizing vertical or horizontal space is largely personal. With BP's you don't need to worry about them being hard to get back into the uppermost boxes since they are slow moving. I had a vertical rack that I kept arboreal racers in and the snake in the top box could be a nightmare.

Heat distribution is a concern with vertically-oriented racks but there are always ways to deal with this if they fit your other requirements.

Regarding horizontally-oriented racks, I believe your biggest concern should be whether or not you can fit them through a doorway. Typically they are taller than most doors are wide so flipping them on their side is not a realistic option. For BP's most breeders use fairly long boxes so again the width of many racks won't fit through some doors.

First decide on what box you will use. If it's long and your doorways are narrow you should build your rack vertically.

If horizontal will work, they do make for a nice work area on top and it is easy to check on your snakes.

My last thought on this specific question is that you only need it to hold 8 boxes. If your boxes were 6" tall, your rack would only be less than 56" tall. That's not much to worry about. The biggest worry would be utilizing material well. Most lumber comes in 48" increments so a 56" tall rack *could* waste a lot of material. On that thought alone I would lean towards a shorter rack that was four tiers tall and where each shelf held two boxes.

$200 may be tough if you want to use a big box. If that includes the price of the box it will be very difficult to meet that price. Your cheapest option for material would probably be MDF coated with rubberized contact paper. I line even my melamine racks with contact paper since it resists humidity so well. It is also easy to replace.

Regarding heating issues, I'll leave that to other people on the forum. If your room is fairly warm already you might be able to get away with just some rope light for heating. If you need night-time heat they now make red rope light which filters out most visible light. Rope-light will be your cheapest option, whether it will provide enough heat for your application is hard to say. You could control it with a rheostat (as you could heat tape) until you have enough money for a thermostat.

To conserve material/save money you could build a rack with a fairly open design. I'll post a picture of one of mine. If heat retention is a concern the gaps could be filled with with cheap styrene insulation. This design also saves on weight.

Another design that utilizes material well is the one pictured on the ballpython.ca site.

Here's my cheap rack that I threw together one day to quarantine a group of Gonyosoma. I think I only used 1 sheet of plywood ($28) and two rolls of contact paper ($3 each). The screws, nails, and wood glue was stuff I already had.

For another $10 I could have filled in the gaps with 3/4" styrene insulation. The rack was in a heated room so that was not necessary.

artfan1 Jun 15, 2004 11:10 AM

of all your supplies.
Then add it up. It's going to be difficult,to build your own rack for $200 or less that will house 8 adult BP, AND have a thermostat.

We all start off with that type of budget, but then quickly realize that we overlooked some stuff. At least, I do.

If you want to, you can visit my page on the subject http://www.dozierstudio.com/ladderrack.html

Troy

uf_g8or Jun 15, 2004 07:25 PM

I agree with all of the above said. Make a list of materials you will need. I like to draw out my plan and come up with dimensions based on the size of the tubs I'll be using. I love using melamine...though heavy, it is extremely sturdy and retains heat well.

Below are some pictures of a few racks I built from melamine to house my ball pythons. The eating machine racks were designed from Markus Jayne's rack. And the other one I built to house hatchlings, yearlings and small adults. I use 11-inch flexwatt on the eating machine racks and 4-inch flexwatt on the other rack. All the heat tape runs vertically down the backs of the rack and provides a perfect heat gradient.

The two eating machine racks cost me around $300 for both of them including everything. The other rack cost me around $225 for everything. And to me, it's well worth the time and money to build your own just the way you want them. Tends to be quite a bit cheaper too.

Hope that helps out some. Good luck!

Eating machine rack:

Hatchling/Yearling/Sub-adult rack:

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Michael

toddg Jun 15, 2004 08:26 PM

I am leaning towards building the same style rack as Markus Jayne's. I feel it would be best for my situation. How do you regulate the heat in your vertical rack? Do you use a dimmer or thermostat? Also, most people agree that bottom heat is best. Does this provide an adequate heat spot for the balls at the back of the rack?

Todd
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1.1 Balls - Male het/albino, Female 66% het/albino
***Fingers crossed for next season!!!***

uf_g8or Jun 15, 2004 10:56 PM

I regulate the heat with a thermostat on each rack. The back heat has worked PERFECTLY for me and has provided just the right heat gradient...90-95 near the back and 78-81 near the front. The balls have thrived in these racks. I do like belly heat but felt it was too much of a pain to fun on each shelf plus the rear heat works just fine. Make sure to definitely use a thermostat or some other temp. control device. Hope that helps!
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Michael Rehker
"Which of us has not been stunned by the beauty of an animal's skin or its flexibility in motion?"
--Marianne Moore

toddg Jun 15, 2004 11:47 PM

np
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1.1 Balls - Male het/albino, Female 66% het/albino
***Fingers crossed for next season!!!***

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