I have incubated lots of herp eggs from various species. Many years ago, I was a consultant for the Fish and Wildlife Service on caring for smuggled herps while the cases settled, and among the myriad herps I was asked to care for were some erebbenus smuggled in from Mexico. The snakes were pretty sick when I got them, and there were no herp vets in those days, so I did the best I could. A few died, most survived. Some were gravid, and the eggs hatched out OK. I did notice that there were a few infertiles in the clutches.
As I read the many posts on all the forums re: incubating herp eggs, I notice that most people use vermiculite or perlite as incubating medium. Not to impugn tradition, but I have always preferred long-fibered sphagnum moss, sold at garden supply centers as "green moss". I wet the moss with distilled or drinking water, and squeeze out as much water as I can, leaving the moss feeling barely damp. I put about four to six inches of moss in a big jar, like one of the jumbo pretzel jars from the economy food warehouses, filling the jar about halfway. The eggs go on top of the moss. There is usually a bit of water in the bottom of the jar, if not, I add a small amount. The upper layers of moss will wick the water from this reservoir as they dry. I monitor the eggs for the first few days to be sure they are humid enough. If they start to collapse, I put some moistened/squeezed moss on top of them until they fill out, then I remove that top layer, leaving the eggs exposed.
The moss allows for excellent air circulation around the eggs, and I wonder if it's better in that regard than the circulation afforded by vermiculite or perlite. Also, the moss touching the eggs is pretty dry, hardly wetter than the air in the jar, and the vermiculite or perlite touching the eggs can hold droplets of water against the eggshells. Eggs buried in vermiculite or perlite may have difficulty breathing. Can't dispute that lots of breeders hatch lots of eggs using vermiculite and perlite, but I know two breeders personally, and they report lower hatch rates per clutch than I do. I almost never hatch less than 100%. I read Dean's post about him using damp cotton t-shirts to incubate his Dry eggs, and I wonder if he's tried moss. Among its other blessings, the moss is antimicrobial, and resists mold. Now, Dean has for sure succeeded with Dry breeding more than I have, and tinkering with success is asking for trouble, but I wonder if the moss technique might at least be a bit less laborious.
As to incubators: I built an economical incubator by making a MDF shell and lining it with construction styrofoam. The styro is laminated on one side with a plastic film as a moisture barrier, and I put the film side facing into the incubator. I want to bring up an important point about incubators. They work best in a thermally stable environment. I put mine in a closet that has an AC register, and is pretty cold. That way, all the incubator has to do is warm itself up a few times a day. I use a thermostat from Big Apple Herp to control a 15 watt light bulb, and, importantly, a fan. The fan prevents the development of hot spots in the incubator. I put the probe for the thermostat in the egg chamber, among the eggs, so the thermostat maintains the temp where it really counts. I monitor the temp with a digital max/min thermometer, and a lab-grade mercury thermometer to verify the accuracy of the digital.
This setup keeps the eggs within a two to two-and-a-half degree range, about 79 to 81 during the first few weeks of incubation, and then I reset the system for 77 to 79 degrees for the last two to three weeks. It's not precise enough for Green Tree Python eggs, but it works fine for colubrids. I tried finding a good shelf or cabinet in the house for incubating eggs, but the temps fluctuated too much, 71 to 84 on the worst days.
I plan to try a new approach and assay it when there are no real eggs in the incubator. I'll put trays of wet something, probably moss in the incubator and see if that keeps the humidity high enough, then monitor conditions in open trays where I would put eggs. The thinking is to maximize air circulation around the eggs and eliminate the need to open the jar every few days to refresh the air around the eggs--basically, turn the entire incubator into an egg chamber to address circulation concerns, which I suspect are more important than may have been realized.
I read a lot on all the forums about infertile eggs, or clutches going bad, and I wonder if some of it has to do with technique. I have some thoughts on the health of the breeder snakes, too, which I will likely inflict on you all in another post. That's the trouble with being a lurker: 'way too much time to think.

