Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have sent my terrarium up 4 ft long, 2 ft wide, 2 ft tall. I have the basking area at 85-86 degrees and the cool side at around 78-82 degrees. I have read many web sites that say the the basking area should be at 90 degrees. And I am having a hard time trying to have it reach 90 without putting a heating pad set up in the cage. If I put a heat pad in, I would have to put it under the beeding (to dangerous for the ball python). Does anyone think that 86 degrees it not hot enough on the warm side for the ball python. Any info would be great, Thanks.

kyle

I think that's too cool. What are you using to provide heat anyway? You should use a human heating pad or reptile heating pad. They need belly heat. Warm side temps (if using loose substrate measure under the substrate, if using newspaper/carpet, etc measure on top of the substrate) should be 90-95, cool side 80-85. Set the heating pad on a thermostat.

Also, make sure you're measuring with a good thermomether - digital with probes. The stick on kinds are crap and generally unreliabe - plus they don't allow you to measure in the correct place.

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"Kira"

I am using heat from light bulbs, the beeding is cypress mulch. I was thinking about using a heating pad, but the snake would have direct contact with it. If the bp hid under the substrate there would be a chance the ball python would get hurt, it worries me. I have another snake (CA king) with lighting and a heating pad, but I don't worry about that because the heating pad is under the glass aquarium.

You don't put the heating pad in the tank, it goes on the outside bottom of the tank making sure you have the cage lifted a bit to provide some airflow under the heat pad. Then since you have a loose substrate you put a thin layer of something like newspaper on the bottom of the tank and then the substrate. This and the fact that you regulate the temps w/ a thermostat prevents the liklihood that your snake will get burned by having direct contact with the heated glass. Then you put the digital probes on top of the newspaper to get accurate belly temps. You need to measure what the snake feels. You shouldn't rely on overhead heat. Your main heat source should provide belly heat and then you can supplement with overhead heat if needed/desired. Belly heat is important for digestion - they are nocturnal and don't bask in the wild.

Hope this helps.
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1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli"
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0.1 Rough-Scale Sand Boa "Arwen"
0.1 California Kingsnake "Gentoo"
1.0 Mexican Black Kingsnake "Indigo"
1.0 Snow Corn snake "Chile"

0.1 Australian Cattle Dog/Pointer
"Kira"

Totally agree with that.

Frank
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1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli"
1.0 Saharan Sand Boa "Frodo"
0.1 Rough-Scale Sand Boa "Arwen"
0.1 California Kingsnake "Gentoo"
1.0 Mexican Black Kingsnake "Indigo"
1.0 Snow Corn snake "Chile"

0.1 Australian Cattle Dog/Pointer
"Kira"

It is not possible to put the heating pad underneath the terrarium, it wieghts about 30-35 pounds and is made of 1/2 inch wood. So, if I were to use the heating pad, I would have to use it inside the cage. I bought one today and I am going to set it on a low setting and see what will work. If you have any more suggestions it would be great, thanks.

kyle

Hmmm. Personally I would not do that. What if there is a malfunction in the heating pad one day, temps raise and burn your bp? Perhaps you should switch to carpet or some substrate like that, put the heat pad under it, set it on a thermostat and be sure the carpet is weighted down with hides/deco so that your bp can't get under it. That would be my suggestion.
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1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli"
1.0 Saharan Sand Boa "Frodo"
0.1 Rough-Scale Sand Boa "Arwen"
0.1 California Kingsnake "Gentoo"
1.0 Mexican Black Kingsnake "Indigo"
1.0 Snow Corn snake "Chile"

0.1 Australian Cattle Dog/Pointer
"Kira"

i have a thick plastic mat to cover the bottom of the terrarium (so its easier to clean) and i was thinking of putting the heating pad under the plastic at a low temperature so the ball python can't get to it and won't get burnt... and then i would put the substrate over the plastic. it shouldn't get hot enough for the plastic to melt or anything. what do you think of this idea?

Well, if you're talking about a human heating pad and if you use the cover that usully comes with them then I think it might be okay - but I'm not sure.
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1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli"
1.0 Saharan Sand Boa "Frodo"
0.1 Rough-Scale Sand Boa "Arwen"
0.1 California Kingsnake "Gentoo"
1.0 Mexican Black Kingsnake "Indigo"
1.0 Snow Corn snake "Chile"

0.1 Australian Cattle Dog/Pointer
"Kira"

I set up the heating pad underneath the plastic, but it got to 102-103 degrees because it didn't have any air flow. I have never used a human heating pad for a terrarium, have you? I just don't want it to get to hot under the beeding and cause a fire. I went back to the hardware store to check more lights that would work to warm up the enclosure. I found a flood bulb at 60W that got the temperature at 91-93 degrees. I know you were telling me that ball pythons need belly heat, but I have read over the internet that lights work to for a good source of heat. I use only lights to heat up my CA kingsnakes cage and only use the heating pad if it gets to cold in the winter time. I was thinking the 60W bulb would work and I could use a Pet Osborne heating pad for the winter time.

kyle

I use a human heating pad for my quarantine setup (it's a sterlite tub and the pad is kept on the outside). You'd have to put a thermostat on it to regulate the temps. However, I have to agree with the other post about trying a radiant heat panel. If you go with a light be sure it's outside the cage and be sure your temp measurements are correct - use a digital with probe thermometer and/or temp gun and measure underneath the mulch. Also be sure the light doesn't mess up your humidity (60% during nonshed and 70% in shed are great numbers).

I realize you do find some online caresheets that say lights are okay, but the general consensus is belly heat is better if possible. Be careful what you read and take as good tips on those caresheets. Often times they are simply regurgitated outdated information - sometimes they're great resources.

I'd love to see pics of your snakes if you have any.

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Check Out My Albums

1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli"
1.0 Saharan Sand Boa "Frodo"
0.1 Rough-Scale Sand Boa "Arwen"
0.1 California Kingsnake "Gentoo"
1.0 Mexican Black Kingsnake "Indigo"
1.0 Snow Corn snake "Chile"

0.1 Australian Cattle Dog/Pointer
"Kira"

I have the lights inside the terrarium w/ screen mesh completly surrounding them, there is no chance the ball python would hurt it self. I have a digital thermometer/humidity gage measuring the cool side and warm side (humidity is usually around 66% on both sides). I am going to buy one of those pet heating pads, even though I didn't want to spend a lot of money on it. But ball pythons live a long period of time and Im sure I will get a lot of use out of it. I will most likely rely on the heating pad as far as getting the hot side 90 and over (mainly because of your advice). What is to hot for the hot spot, 95 and over? Thanks.

kyle

You'll be able to read your BP as far as what is too hot for him. I'd start at 90-92 and if he's over there all the time it might mean you need to bump it up a bit. I doubt you'd need to go above 95 (90-92 is more the average), but they are each individuals. You will definitely need a thermostat with the reptile heating pads - my experience has been that some of them get super hot.

Best of luck - I'd love to see a pic of your setup sometime.
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Check Out My Albums

1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli"
1.0 Saharan Sand Boa "Frodo"
0.1 Rough-Scale Sand Boa "Arwen"
0.1 California Kingsnake "Gentoo"
1.0 Mexican Black Kingsnake "Indigo"
1.0 Snow Corn snake "Chile"

0.1 Australian Cattle Dog/Pointer
"Kira"

Have you looked into Cobra heating pads. I use one for my fire skink it goes to 100 and can go in the tank. It wont burn the snake at that temp . I am very happy with it.
Lia

Hi Kyle -

Wooden cages can be difficult to heat without using products which go inside the cage. Given the cage set up you describe, I would recommend a radiant heat panel like Pro Products or Helix which you attach to the ceiling of your enclosure. Alternatively, you could use a small Kane or Osborne Industries heat pad which the snake could lie directly on if you wished. With either solution you should use a good quality proportional thermostat like Helix or Big Apple to control the heat output.

Actually, the temps you describe are pretty good for maintaining ball pythons, if they are accurate (although a 90 degree hot spot is recommended). But, if you’re having trouble keeping the heat up this time of year, what’s going to happen when winter comes around?

-Joan

Thank you for the tips, I have looked in to heat panels, but I already have the light fixtures set up (protect by mesh for the snake) and if I change it and add the heat panels it would be a whole lot of work. I am considering a 1.5 ft x 2 ft osborne heating pad that would cover half of the cage almost exactly and with heat source from the lights (in the middle of the cage), it would make a good hot spot for about a foot of the cage (cage is 4ft long x 2ft wide x 2ft high)...... Have you ever used pet heating mats? I want my cage to look as good as possible and a bright orange mate does take a way from the look. I was thinking it shouldn't hurt to put a 1/2 of inch of cypress mulch over it, so the orange eye sore doesn't show to much. If you have any more advise, let me know. Thanks

kyle