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OK OK I know this has been asked a MILLION times, but ....

Krystal19_85 Jul 20, 2004 02:41 PM

I did do a search on this and have read many posts and all, but I am still concearned about it. I need a safe clear sealant that will work on plywood and the tile grout used in making fake rock walls. I also need to know a safe epoxy on the lower end of the price range compaired to Envirotex. I just want as many opinions and experience stories as I can get on this before I go out and buy something. Oh yeah... FYI this isn't for a water monitor or anything, just a ball python, so as far as humidity, it shoulden't be horrible. Also I was thinking of making the water dish, is there a really good sealant I could seal it with that can withstand the water and not seep into the water? Or would the Epoxy I need do that job too? I duno I might just go get a Exo Terra water dish. Well thanks in advance for any help!
-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"It is better to be hated for what you are than loved for what you're not."

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

Replies (4)

chris_harper2 Jul 20, 2004 03:49 PM

Hi Krystal,

I think for the cage walls of a BP cage you could use a low-gloss water-based polyurethane. I would not use that on the cage floor nor in your artificial rock water bowl.

I have made artificial rock water bowls from cement and then sealed them with a latex sealer of some sort. I think I had to order it from Canada. Fortunately I needed it in bulk so it was reasonable to do. The only advantage to the product from Canada was that it had not gloss to it whatsoever so I could seal my rockwork without any shine.

I believe there are acylic or latex concrete aditives that you could mix in with your tile grout. Heck, you could probably even experiement with Elmers glue. Mixed in at the proper amount any of those should effectively seal the water bowl. You'll have to experiment yourself to figure that out.

For the experiment stage simply form a small amount of screen into a small container of some sort. Then mix up your tile grout and add a specific amount of whatever product you choose. Trowel the mixture onto the screen and let it dry. Once dry pop the whole thing out of the mold and fill it with water. If the water discolors or leaks through the grout try a stronger mix.

It will give a bit of a high-gloss look to the rock but that is not that big of a deal for the interior of a water bowl. It is a big deal for fake rock walls in my opinion.

Regarding a cheap epoxy, there is fiberglass resin. You can't get much cheaper than that. I would not use it on the walls, again due to the shiny look and because it will reduce the natural texture of the tile grout.

But for a cage floor and the interior of a water bowl it would work great. Nasty to work with, however.

If you have any friends into car-repair they could probably give you a bit to work with.

Krystal19_85 Jul 20, 2004 04:04 PM

Thanks Chris, here is my thoughts and concearns with your suggestions...

::I think for the cage walls of a BP cage you could use a low-gloss water-based polyurethane.

>> Awesome... that would work for the fake Rock correct? Just double checkin.

>> I think I am just going to buy the water dish LOL ... too complicated, I choose.... Lazy. LOL

It will give a bit of a high-gloss look to the rock but that is not that big of a deal for the interior of a water bowl. It is a big deal for fake rock walls in my opinion.

>> I would rather the walls be matte, but gloss isn't a big deal if it is safer and will last me longer.

::Regarding a cheap epoxy, there is fiberglass resin. You can't get much cheaper than that. I would not use it on the walls, again due to the shiny look and because it will reduce the natural texture of the tile grout.

>> I have heard alot about the fiberglass resin and it seems like it would be what I need, but I need clear, or something... I was going to mix sand into it... probably more sand than epoxy/resin then put a light clear coat over it so it looks like sand, but it is smooth... or am I aiming for something not too possible here?

::But for a cage floor and the interior of a water bowl it would work great. Nasty to work with, however.

That sand/epoxy mix was 1/2 the floor and I was going to tile the other 1/2 in slate tile, would I need to seal the tile too?

::If you have any friends into car-repair they could probably give you a bit to work with.

>>Well I know a LOT of people who do car repair, I actually know someone who restores classic cars, so I am sure he would have something I can use.

>>I think I am mostly worried about making sure it's not toxic and making sure it does it's job.

Thanks again Chris and anyone else who has any advice for me!
-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"It is better to be hated for what you are than loved for what you're not."

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

chris_harper2 Jul 20, 2004 04:20 PM

I do think a low-gloss, matte, or whatever you want to call it polyurethane would work. I say this assuming it will go directly over the tile grout and not over a fiberglass/sand mixture.

I think the fiberglass/sand mixture is overkill. I'm fairly certain you could simply play around with mixing sand directly into the tile grout, adding Elmer's glue to make the consistency right, and just smearing it right on. I'm not even sure if you would need polyurethane at that point.

I believe this would work for the floor as well. If you're not making the water bowl I see no reason for you to even start messing with fiberglass.

Buy the cheap, unmixed tile grout and just start experimenting. Before I did any rock work at the zoo I took a sheet of cheap plywood and covered it with all sorts of rock work and practiced my technique.

Krystal19_85 Jul 20, 2004 04:45 PM

do think a low-gloss, matte, or whatever you want to call it polyurethane would work. I say this assuming it will go directly over the tile grout and not over a fiberglass/sand mixture.

>> it will b directly over the tile grout, I am doing the walls that way.

I think the fiberglass/sand mixture is overkill. I'm fairly certain you could simply play around with mixing sand directly into the tile grout, adding Elmer's glue to make the consistency right, and just smearing it right on. I'm not even sure if you would need polyurethane at that point.

>> I was only thinking of using the sand mixture on 1/2 the floor, not the walls. I wanted the appearance of sand, but I didn't want loose sand.

Buy the cheap, unmixed tile grout and just start experimenting. Before I did any rock work at the zoo I took a sheet of cheap plywood and covered it with all sorts of rock work and practiced my technique.

>> Good Idea to experiment with it before I go straight to the cage ... I am sure I have some scraps I could work on before I started.
-----
"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"It is better to be hated for what you are than loved for what you're not."

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

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