Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Well, I got two more done so now I have 3 total for my Olive breeders. They came out very nice and I saved some money for sure. Thanks to Chris Harper for some ideas and help along the way. The Olives seem happier already. Let me know what you think. Below are the pics and descriptions...

2 New finished 6' cages in place (notice UPS system for emergency power backup. Each cage stack has its own.

Cage Flooring - Cut to fit Lowes white bathrrom board and siliconed edges. Extremely water proof. Already Tested (messy buggers)

Locks - Well I forgot to order locks so I quickly through these together. Its just 1/4" dowel that drop down in the opposite side of the tracks to lock the glass in place. Works awesome!

TT

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Reptile-Pit.com

1.1 Woma Pythons
2.1 Olive Pythons
1.1 Granite Burmese Pythons
1.0 Indian Python
1.1 Eastern Indigos (waiting for hatchlings)
0.1 Ball Python (donation / rehab snake)

The cages look great almost like home made visions but nicer.

I've been using the "dowel lock" method for years, small screws threaded into the dowels will help in their easy removal. I like the dowels since there are no display locks to interfere with viewing.

BigT
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Hope this helps.

BigT

Nice job. I do think the vertical support behind the upper and lower lips is a better all-around way to go. I also like that you did not go with the full face frame look. Having the front-sides open like that makes for easier cleaning.

Now my questions:

1) Tell me more about this UPS system. Any links?

2) Didn't you build out of 1/2" plywood? If so, how did you support the sliding door track for 1/4" glass? If I remember correctly that track is just a hair over 3/4" wide. I assume you doubled up the 1/2" plywood for the lips?

3) Is that wall board smooth or textured? Make sure to keep us posted how well it cleans up after several juicy fecal deposits have been made

Yea, these two came out much nicer than the first. Each try they get less complicated and easier to clean and maintain. As to your questions...

1) Tell me more about this UPS system. Any links?

*** I am a systems engineer in the IT industry and have access to discarded or near new UPS systems. I have quite the collection now. They are expensive to buy new though.

2) Didn't you build out of 1/2" plywood? If so, how did you support the sliding door track for 1/4" glass? If I remember correctly that track is just a hair over 3/4" wide. I assume you doubled up the 1/2" plywood for the lips?

*** The top, back, bottom and sides are 1/2". The front bottom lip is 6" pine and the top lip is 2" pine. The center support is also 2" pine. All these boards are 3/4" thick making for a very nice glass track lip.

3) Is that wall board smooth or textured? Make sure to keep us posted how well it cleans up after several juicy fecal deposits have been made.

*** The board is smooth and water proof. Its coated with similar paint as a bath tub type enamel. I already cleaned one giant Olive mess and it was a breeze.

The only thing else I did is sandwhich 6x11 flexx watt under one side. same side as the heat lamps. That lies between the plywood floor and the sheet of white board. So far its working and displacing the heat quite nicely.

TT
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Reptile-Pit.com

1.1 Woma Pythons
2.1 Olive Pythons
1.1 Granite Burmese Pythons
1.0 Indian Python
1.1 Eastern Indigos (waiting for hatchlings)
0.1 Ball Python (donation / rehab snake)

*** The top, back, bottom and sides are 1/2". The front bottom lip is 6" pine and the top lip is 2" pine. The center support is also 2" pine. All these boards are 3/4" thick making for a very nice glass track lip.

I forgot, you answered this same question when you posted the picture of cage #1. Sorry about that.

*** The board is smooth and water proof. Its coated with similar paint as a bath tub type enamel.

Are you saying you painted it yourself or that it came pre-painted?

It comes prepainted. Its in the paneling section. Marked White Board for High moisture areas. They will also cut that at Lowes or Home Depot as well. Edges may get ripped up but its covered under caulk or silicone so no matter.

TT
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Reptile-Pit.com

1.1 Woma Pythons
2.1 Olive Pythons
1.1 Granite Burmese Pythons
1.0 Indian Python
1.1 Eastern Indigos (waiting for hatchlings)
0.1 Ball Python (donation / rehab snake)

Nicely done, man...those look great, and I think you might be inspiring me to do a little construction this weekend.

A couple of quick questions...

Is the paint anything special, or did you just use regular paint with a clear coat?

Also, it looked like you only used the 2" supports in the middle, and not on the side. The last cages I built were 3/4" MDF, but I'm thinking of trying ply this time around...did you have any trouble screwing into the sides of the 1/2" sheets?

Thanks,

Cliff

Thanks for the props. I have found a true love in building my cages. Plastic cages are nice, but I can make mine however I want them and even change them later on if needed.

Is the paint anything special, or did you just use regular paint with a clear coat?

*** Its just Arcylic Enamel Latex Exterior paint. Have used many times before and have had snakes on it long term. I look for the stuff that says non-toxic and safe for painting childrens toys.

Also, it looked like you only used the 2" supports in the middle, and not on the side. The last cages I built were 3/4" MDF, but I'm thinking of trying ply this time around...did you have any trouble screwing into the sides of the 1/2" sheets?

*** I went with 6" bottom lip board and 2" top and center brace boards. Its sturdy as hell with no flex or movement. I did use 1/2" ply (nice on one side) and as long as you pay attention and keep your drill level when drilling it goes togehter just as easy as 3/4" with half the weight.

As I said I am extremely happy with how it all went. I now have 3 6foot cages that are basically wooden visions that I can change when needed.

TT

Thanks,

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Reptile-Pit.com

1.1 Woma Pythons
2.1 Olive Pythons
1.1 Granite Burmese Pythons
1.0 Indian Python
1.1 Eastern Indigos (waiting for hatchlings)
0.1 Ball Python (donation / rehab snake)

Well, I picked up a few sheets of 1/2 ply last night at the local depot, and all the track and pine I need...but I have to admitt, I don't think I have your carpentry skills.

So far I've only tried putting in three screws (I'm using 2", but none of them seem to be holding well in the ply at all (and I've already run one through into the cage, not a good sign).

Any tips on how you got this stuff to stick? Mine seems to want to fall to pieces (although I did get the more expensive sanded ply).

Thanks,

Cliff

Don't know where that thing came from...?

Make sure to use a countersink bit to pre-drill your holes. Also, 2" might be a bit much for 1/2" plywood. 1.25" or 1.5" screws are probably a better choice.

The countersink bit should be the same size as your screws (i.e. #8, #10, etc.).

Hey Chris,

I finally gave up on the screws, and nailed the thing together instead. Do you forsee any problems with this? I still used screws to put the front pine in, but I nailed all the ply together. It seems very sturdy, and I really like the way it turned out...I'd recomment 1/2 ply over 3/4 mdf to anyone...SO much lighter.

Hopefully the thing won't fall apart. Another shout-out for TT @ the reptile-pit...thanks for the layout, I followed your model pretty closely, and really like the way the first one's turned out. The only things I did differently (other than the nails) was use white for the color (my animals are in a fairly dim basement), go 4 ft instead of 6 and instead of just putting in a middle support bar I put in a full ring of ribs that I can clip a divider in to. (to use it as two 2' cages instead of one 4ft).

Once my order of heat tape gets here, and I cut my plexi, I can seal down the shower board and take some pics.

Cliff

I'm assuming you also used wood glue so nails should be strong enough. The fact that the cage length is 48" also helps.

Looking forward to seeing the final product.