we have just brought a nice 2 -3 ft ball/ royal python and we were womndering if thay go through stages of fasting and how long they get. wot tempreture the tank needs to be and are they a well tempermented snake? thanks morgan
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we have just brought a nice 2 -3 ft ball/ royal python and we were womndering if thay go through stages of fasting and how long they get. wot tempreture the tank needs to be and are they a well tempermented snake? thanks morgan
some do fast kind of at random, if they were feeding before and everything else is fine they should feed again. temps should be at least 75 at the cool end and 85-90 on the warm side. some are biters most are not. humidity between 55-75%. agood hide makes them feel secure. if they are just in or new they may need time to adjust. i would try feeding once a week for the first month and go from there. hope this helps.
thanks for your time
vaughn
Not to be rude, but you bought it without knowing these things? You really should have your setup together before bringing home a snake - especially with a ball python because they are prone to going off feed and stressing out due to improper temps, etc.
Anyway, 'yes' they are notorious for going off fed (sometimes it's normal and you don't need to worry if not losing weight, and sometimes it's due to stress/illness - but you neet to be able to tell the difference). They are notorious for being a bit stubborn to convert to frozen/thawed and/or rats. They hide an awful lot (about 90% of the time) - so don't be surprised or disappointed. Try not to put in a glass tank - you're generally asking for trouble maintaining temps and humidity. Be sure you have at least 1 hide per side (tight, low, snug and preferably round), a water dish for soaking/drinking, something rough for your snake to rub on for shed (and many, particulary young ones enjoy climbing), a good substrate (no cedar-and if a loose substrate feed outside the cage), a hygrometer, a good digital thermometer w/ probes (the stick on analogs are crap, unreliable and don't let you measure where you need to - belly/surface temps. You can even get hygrometer/thermometer combos).Lights are not necessary since they are nocturnal - lights are only for our benefit and do stress some bps out. Lights also tend to dry up humidity.
Getting them to eat frozen/thawed (or prekilled) is best. Feeding live can result in serious injury to your snake (I've seen some gruesome pics). Also, frozen/thawed kills parasites.
Humidity: 50-60% when not in shed, up to 70% when in shed
Temps: Warm side= 90-95, Cool side=80-85 (again measure the surface/belly temps that your snake will feel with a digital w/ probe thermometer). Night time drop not required, but if it does drop go no lower than 75 on the cool side and maintain a 5-10 degree difference between the cool and warm side. Put the probes on top of the substrate - unless using a loose substrate, then put the probe under the substrate. Use a reptile or human heating pad that covers 25-50% of the cage to provide belly heat. Overhead heat using lights should only supplement belly heat - not be the sole source of heat. Belly heat is important for digestion.
If using a loose substrate you need to feed outside the cage to avoid possible injestion of the substrate and impaction.
If it's 2-3 years old you can probably feed once every 7-10 days. Do not handle for a minimum of 48 hours after feeding to avoid regurgitation. When bringing a new snake home you should give them a settling in period before feeding or handling - most say a minimum of 1 week.
Average length is 4-5 feet with some females reaching 6 feet (so I'm told, I've yet to hear someone say theirs got that big). They should live 20-30 years minimum easily. They are generally a docile species, but again don't expect to see it much.
I know this is more than you asked for, but based on your original questions I gathered any and all information needed to be given. If you like, I have a word doc caresheet for bps I can send you. It's a collection of advice from various forums that I've saved. Just email me:
tigergenesis@comcast.net
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...particularly temps to avoid the most common illness: respiratory infections.
Fasting is part of the "nature" of BPs. Some don't but the majority do so and it can be for extended periods. The key is to feed WELL when they feed. A BP can fast for 6-9 months with ease, start feeding and bulk up with just 5-6 GOOD meals.
Good luck and welcome to the forum!
Scott J. Michaels DVM
Serpent City
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