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Question about feeding...

mrclean Aug 08, 2004 03:31 PM

I just hatched out some normals. They are my first corns. How soon should I try to feed them? I assume I should wait until after their first shed, right? Some one fill me in, please!

MrClean

Replies (1)

Hoppy Aug 08, 2004 08:11 PM

Start trying to feed the hatchlings 3-5 days after their first shed..... and here is the rest of the info,
CORN SNAKE CARE SHEET

THE CORN SNAKE HAS TO BE ONE OF THE EASIEST SNAKES TO CARE FOR ON THE PET MARKET TODAY. THE CARE IS BASIC AND INFORMATION CAN BE USED FROM ANY NATIVE COLUBRID SPECIES.

HATCHLINGS

ALL MY HATCHLINGS ARE ALREADY FEEDING ON LIVE 1-5 DAY OLD PINKIE MICE (IF THE TERM PINKIE MICE IS NOT FAMILIAR TO YOU, MAY I SUGGEST THAT YOU GO TO THE PET STORE AND GET THE BOOK BY ADVANCED VIVARIUM SYSTEMS ON CORN SNAKES $5-$7) IF THEY ARE NOT FEEDING, I DON’T SHIP THEM!
SOME BASIC CARE TIPS FOR FEEDING:

1) DON’T PUT THE SNAKE IN A CAGE SO BIG IT CAN’T FIND ITS FOOD. A SMALL RUBBERMAID SHOE BOX WORKS WELL FOR ABOUT SIX MONTHS.
(AT LEAST AT FEEDING TIME). THIS IS ALSO VERY SECURE FOR SMALL HATCHLINGS LIKE CORNS. TEN GALLON TANKS HAVE LIDS WHICH LET A SMALL SNAKE OUT.
2) DON’T USE CEDAR WOOD CHIPS AS A GROUND COVER FOR YOUR SNAKE OR THE FOOD YOU FEED IT. CEDAR IS VERY TOXIC TO REPTILES AND OTHER ANIMALS - THAT’S WHY THEY MAKE CLOSETS OUT OF IT (TO KEEP BUGS AWAY).
3) START OUT WITH SMALL MEALS, A 1-5 DAY OLD PINKIE EVERY 5-10 DAYS. INCREASE THE SIZE OF THE PREY AS THE SNAKE GROWS.
WHEN THE SNAKE IS DONE FEEDING, THE LUMP IN ITS BELLY SHOULD
ONLY BE SLIGHTLY NOTICEABLE.
4) DON’T COOK OR FREEZE YOUR SNAKE. SUMMER TIME TEMPS SHOULD BE 70-85 DEGREES AND WINTER 55-70 DEGREES. DON’T LEAVE THEM OUTSIDE IN GLASS TANKS. THE SUN REFLECTS AND IN NO TIME HEAT STROKE WILL OCCUR.
5) WATER SHOULD BE ALWAYS AVAILABLE AND MISTING THE TANK 3 TIMES PER WEEK HELPS WITH SHEDDING BY KEEPING THE HUMIDITY HIGH.
6) NEWSPAPER IS A EASY GROUND COVER. IF YOU WANT SOMETHING MORE DECORATIVE, TRY ASPEN SHAVINGS OR CYPRESS MULCH.
7) KEEP THE CAGE CLEAN. REMOVE ANY UNEATEN MEALS AND DROPPINGS. THE SNAKE WILL THANK YOU AS WELL AS ANYONE WHO COMES OVER.

ADULTS

ADULTS ARE TREATED MUCH THE SAME AS HATCHLINGS, JUST ON A BIGGER SCALE. A 10-15 GAL TANK MAKES A GOOD SIZE HOME. MAKE SURE THE TOP FITS TIGHT. I CUSTOM MADE BY HAND ALL OF MY TOPS WITH WOOD AND 1/4 INCH HARDWARE CLOTH TO ASSURE A TIGHT FIT. SCREEN TOPS JUST DON’T SEEM TO WORK WELL FOR SNAKES.

MAKE SURE YOU FEED ALL SNAKES SEPARATELY. THAT WAY NO ONE WILL TRY TO FEED ON THE SAME PREY ITEM AND END UP EATING EACH OTHER. IT HAS HAPPENED!!!!!

BREEDING

BREEDING IS EASY AND ALMOST UNAVOIDABLE WITH CORN SNAKES. IN THE WINTER, SLOW DOWN THEIR FOOD SUPPLY AND COOL THEM DOWN A BIT ( NIGHT TIME TEMPS OF 55-60 DEGREES). WHEN SPRING COMES AROUND, ITS THE ONLY THING THE MALES ARE THINKING ABOUT ( BOYS WILL BE BOYS). LET THE TANKS WARM UP AND START FEEDING THE FEMALES WELL (GIRLS WILL BE GIRLS ). THE MALES MAY NOT EAT AT ALL. AFTER THE FEMALE’S FIRST SHED OF THE YEAR, INTRODUCE THE TWO SNAKES FOR ABOUT 3-5 DAYS AT A TIME. CHANCES ARE YOU WILL SEE THEM MATE ALMOST IMMEDIATELY. KEEP LETTING THEM
“ INTERACT” FOR A FEW WEEKS AND THEN SEPARATE THEM AGAIN.

EGGS

ABOUT 7-10 DAYS BEFORE THE FEMALE LAYS HER EGGS SHE WILL SHED. THIS SHOULD BE 60-90 DAYS AFTER THE BREEDING. GIVE HER A NEST BOX WITH SOME MOIST VERMICULITE TO LAY HER EGGS IN. YOU MIGHT WANT TO REMOVE THE WATER BOWL JUST BEFORE LAYING SO SHE DOESN’T CHOOSE THAT AS A NEST BOX.

THE EGG SHOULD BE KEPT IN SLIGHTLY MOIST VERMICULITE FOR 60 OR SO DAYS AT 78-82 DEGREES. A WARM ROOM TEMPERATURE. AND THE BABIES SHOULD HATCH OUT JUST FINE.

THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR PURCHASE. IF YOU EVER HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO E-MAIL ME AT: HOPFAM1@AOL.COM

JIM HOPKINS
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Jim Hopkins "Hoppy"
Hopkins Holesale Herps
Hopfam1@aol.com

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