Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have a friend who purchased a yearling Albino Black Rat from a pet store last year and they told her it was a Cornsnake. Well, this little bugger is getting big. And the snake hisses, strikes, tries to bite usually only when trying to pick him up. He belongs to the son who is 12yrs old. He is attached to the snake but now must wear long sleaves and gloves to pick up his own snake. After he is out of his tub his behavior gets better somwhat. But he is not trustworthy at all. Need suggestions as what to do. Would a good quality hook to remove the snake from his enclosure help? Should they sell/give the animal away? Is there any hope that this snake will improve? Get worse? Stay the same? What kind of a future does an animal like this have? Since it is a male would he have any value to breeders? Are they all like this? Most of them? Thanks.

you sit him down in one chair and you sit down in the other chair facing each other. you sit there and make him look at you and say you're going to be a nice snake from now on, you hear me? If he gives you any lip I wouldn't hesitate to give him one big b* slap across his face, lol. (yes im just kididng on that last part) lol.
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The reason mainstream thought is thought of as a stream is because it's so shallow. -George Carlin

Battling ignorance one stupid person at a time.

Current snakes:
0.1 Licorice Stick Black Rat(Lola)
1.0 Neonate Black Rat (het for Lic Stk's) (Frankie)
1.1 Texas Bairds (Jose and Rosa)

The only way to tame him is to take him out of his cage every day until the snake get used to being picked up. (Skip doing this for 48 hours after feeding.) Most Black Rats will calm down, but it may take some time. Wear the gloves and try not to flinch when he strikes.

Good luck with him.

Good advice, indeed. I would add that if you are NOT using latex gloves, get a few pair from the emergency kit at work or the janitor's cart. Snakes don't like the flavor, and it is a natural negative consequence to nipping. Once the snake calms down, I would even take the gloves off so the snake gets used to the hands. How often was this snake handled previously? I'm guessing that since it was a striker, the owner backed off and did not handle it much. Right now, as stated, regular handling with a couple days off after meals is the answer. Good luck.

I think a snake hook is a great idea for removing the snake from the enclosure. I've used all sorts of methods to prevent the defensive strikes of various snakes over the years and a snake hook is the easiest and most consistent that I've found. I use the snake hook to gently move the snakes head away from my reaching hand. The snake recognizes that the snake hook is not food and not a predator, so it doesn't react to it. Then I reach in and pick up the mid section of the snake and with the head still on the hook, bring the snake out of the cage. Now with the biting out side of the cage... Most of my snakes calm down once they're out and just start investigating their surroundings, so I transition the snake's head onto my other hand (no grabbing!).

I've got a few that bite no matter what (a Brazilian Rainbow for example with a mouth full of LONG teeth), with those snakes, the head stays on the hook till I've got them moved to the next container.
Lora

Has your friend measured the temps in the cage accurately? You know the drill: use an accurate thermometer, get the temp directly on the hot spot and cold spot, etc. Does the snake have adequate, correctly sized hides and is the snake in a relatively quiet part of the house? Are there any irritants in the snake's life, such as little sisters who tap on the glass or a cat who might do the same? Does the son play LOUD music with lots of bass, that might be a reason for the snake to be stressed out. Does the snake have a day/night light cycle, or is there a white bulb heat lamp that is on 24/7?

How does the son reach in to get the snake? Does he dodge and jerk around, as that can seriously scare the snake? I know it is hard when you are scared of the snake, but he should just make it a smooth motion.

How old is the snake? What kind of cage/tank is he in? Perhaps if it is a top opening cage, they might do better with a front opening one (or maybe not, if they are scared of the snake launching himself out at the face).

Finally, if the husbandry is good, is there someone who can work with the snake and get him tamed down without being scared of it?

Hope some of this helps.

ph flame
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phflame
pethobbyist host

I have an albino rat snake as well, and he is the only snake in my collection that has ever nipped or bitten!!! I have heard alot of people say that albino snakes are a little more nippy or aggressive because their eyesight is worse than a non-albino snake. Dont know how much truth is to that, however, I only have the one albino so I cant say that is why he is the way he is!! LOL

But with ALOT more handling than the rest of my snakes, he has gotten better. Hasnt bitten in a year now, but still vibrates his tail when I first pull him out of his cage.

I never used gloves or a hook either, just figured that the only way to break him was to handle him bare handed so he would get used to my natural odor and know that I was not a threat to him.

Guess it worked.

Good luck with yours!!

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1.0 Corn snake (KY locale)
1.0 Black rat snake (KY locale)
1.1 Black rat snakes (MO locale)
1.0 Eastern Yellow Belly racer (MO locale)
1.0 Albino Black rat snake (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Everglades rat snake (Dwight Good stock)
0.1 Yellow rat snake (Dwight Good stock)
1.1 California king snake (Coastal phase)
1.0 Prairie king snake (KY locale)
0.1 Black king snake (KY locale)
0.0.1 Eastern Milk snake (KY locale)
0.0.1 Eastern/Red milk intergrade (KY locale)

Good luck and Happy Herping
Brian