` Anacondas are definitely individuals, in temperament. Their behavior, and its changes, vary widely from snake to snake. I've found this to be true in all Boids. My experience is that if you respect the individual highly, and try to intuitively respond to its moment to moment changes in behavior, and mood, you will have the best results. Watch for short term stress by constantly watching its breathing rate. You can watch its large lung action by looking 1/3 of the way down its body, from the head. When calm, their breaths are deep and slow, with a long pause between breaths. It's not abnormal for the animal's respiration to increase at the beginning of handling. Also, when working out the snake will breathe more rapidly, but still deeply. Quick, shallow breaths usually mean stress.
` Feeding pre-killed food is one of the most important keys to successfully maintaining a "pet grade" Boid, in my opinion.
` Don't count on a tame individual remaining so, even though it is likely. I've seen very tame Boids become aggressive because their handlers ( even temporary handlers ) got too sure of the snake's behavior, and became inconsiderate with them. They are simple critters, and can be offended easily. They have some latitude in behavior, but if you push them, insult them, or frighten them, even the most tame can fall back on instinctive behavior. It one falls back on flight or fight ( because you accidentally pushed it there ), you're not likely to let it run away, and the snake may become defensive, then if that doesn't work, offense is usually next. Never grip any snake too firmly, and when it wants to back up, always let it. Use your hands like a hook, or platform, but don't grip them so firmly that they can't slither through your grip. Their ribs crack very easily, and they are very sensitive to this. Once you crack a rib, even slightly, each breath becomes a pain, it's the same for them. They have hundreds of ribs, and they are quite delicate, even in the big animals. Like perching a bird, but substituting the chin, for the foot, put your hand under their chin, let them feel the support, and they'll "step" up to that perch.
` If you need to dangle food to induce a strike to get them to feed, so be it; however, if you can just lay the food down, and get them to come and eat it calmly, you've got a good thing going. That is much better is what you want is a " pet grade " snake.
` Greens are like Yellows, behavior is variable, from individual to individual.
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` Housing them together is VERY, VERY risky, for the animals. My experience is that each snake's history should be known, back to birth, then two ( 2 ) YEARS of individual observation/quarantine for health, and to determine suitable temperament for community housing. After you done all that, forget it anyway. I've seen so many folks kill their snakes with improper husbandry, then just go out and buy another to experiment on. I got out of retail herps, before I strangled someone too stubborn to listen.
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