Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have a 48 X 24 X 30 aquarium with 2X250 watt clear infared heaters and an active UV-Heat bulb which brings the enclosure up to the required temps. I was wondering if I should be adding a heatless light source such as a self-ballasted flourescent to brighten the cage or if uros will thrive in an environment where the lighting is dimmer than natural sunlight

You bring up a valid question. I have no idea.

Will someone tell us if that's right?

And what should I do if I have a 50 gallon terrarium? I think its a 50 long, I have day light and night light for the mali's and its at the right temps all the time but what about the brightness?

Well I know with bearded dragons a brighter cage increases their appetite and I also have my mali's cage bright I think that a bright cage would better simulate what they would experience in Africa during most days.

I don't know any technical info or specifics, but most basking reptiles need appropriate *quality* of light as well as brightness. Bright household bulbs won't cut it if they're bright, but ugly light. A full spectrum fluorescent (like a Sylvania Sunstick) that matches sunlight fairly closely will help your uro's emotional well-being.

I joined a group for UVB meter owners (even before I owned one), and it taught me TONS about lighting, both UVB and otherwise - still learning every single day.
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Torey
Salem, Oregon, USA
1.1 Uromastyx Geyri (Joe and Arthur)
1.0.1 Uromastyx Maliensis (Tank and Turtle)
1.1 Anolis Carolinensis (Bowser and Leeloo)
1.1 African Dwarf Frogs (Bruce and Sheila)
1.0 Betta Splendens (Mr. Miagi)
1.1 Felis Domesticus (Roscolux and Jenny)

I think they've pretty much answered your question, but I just had to say, your electric bill must be awful!!! If I were you I'd ditch the high wattage heat bulbs and get some halogen flood bulbs. They give off better heat per watt, and they are nice and bright! I know pro exotics uses them with fantastic results. I mean, right now you have 500 watts of heat lamps, and a UV lamp that is probably 100 watts or 160 watts? Either way, you're using 600 watts or more, and that's completely unnecessary for a cage of that size. At pro exotics they have some 4'x2'x2' troughs that they use for smaller/mid size animals, and I believe Robyn said they use either single 45 watt halogens or 90 watt halogens. Part of it is that they keep the basking spots high up near the bulbs. You should experiment with different bulbs. Your wallet will thank you.

If heat is an issue, you can use an infrared heat bulb for the difference. I didn't care for the cheap ("cheap" as in quality, the bulb is actually quite pricey) pet store bulb so I bought a Home Depot one. It is the same wattage (100W) but throws off MUCH more heat. With this bulb, I can create a hot region of 140F and both my uros LOVE it! They also both spend time under the bright basking bulb as well.

Hope this helps.

Here's a pic of Ra under the infrared light.

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1.1 Mali Uromastyx (Ra and Isis)

>>Part of it is that they keep the basking spots high up near the bulbs.

It's been my experience that halogens don't give off *that* much heat. No wonder some folks say to have a super tall basking spot....

They've been known to give off more heat than standard basking bulbs you get at a petshop....at least, more heat for the wattage I guess. Plus the flood bulbs give a wider basking spot, allowing the animals to get their whole bodies under the heat. I haven't tried them yet, but I plan on doing so when I build the new enclosures.

Also, for anyone that's thinking about using halogens, get the flood bulbs, not the spot bulbs. Spot bulbs concentrate all of the heat into one spot and can actually cause burns.

I would think a UVA bulb, like a repti-sun would be necessary. I don't know the details with the UV-Heat bulb you mention, though. The proper UVA and UVB are eneded, not for brightness, but for the uro's ability to digest and convert food properly.

You're heating issue brings back my earlier posted point of taller tanks. The taller it is, the harder it is to get temps up, unless you drop the light down inside.

-Jim

>>I have a 48 X 24 X 30 aquarium with 2X250 watt clear infared heaters and an active UV-Heat bulb which brings the enclosure up to the required temps. I was wondering if I should be adding a heatless light source such as a self-ballasted flourescent to brighten the cage or if uros will thrive in an environment where the lighting is dimmer than natural sunlight
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2.1 - Rocky, Runako, and RoxyIII

Heat is needed to be able to digest food, UVB is needed to synthesise calcium or something like that...basically, without UVB lights and/or supplements with d3, the animal can't use any calcium it takes in. Some choose to use just calcium with d3, some choose to use both (I do), but I wouldn't reccomend going without calcium with d3. I suppose some people in warm climates can keep their reptiles outside in the sunlight all of the time, and only then you should use calcium without d3 (using calcium with d3 when the animals are already getting ample d3 from the sunlight can actually cause problems).

I suppose the right amounts of light/UVA probably help trigger whether it's a good time to bask or not. Lower light/UVA usually goes along with bad weather and lower temperatures. That's just my take on it. Sometimes when it's bad weather, my room will get darker, and that triggers their instinct to stop basking, because conditions aren't good. I believe they also probably rely on atmospheric pressure to determine how good the weather is.

I was recently reading an article about Uromastyx (and you would think I would remember where...) that said that they equate heat and light, so if the lightest part of the cage is not the brightest, it can actually confuse them and lead to improper temperature regulation. When they get cold they will move to a bright area and vice versa, when they are hot they will move to a dark area. If you are using lightless heat sources this can really screw them up. I use a ceramic heat emitter as my "always on" source of light, and I am rethinking that practice, even though it is cheaper and easier than replacing 2 bulbs all the time. Additionally, I also have a "day" heat light, that brings the temp up and simulates the "daytime hours". It is definitely something to think about, but anything that is so far away from the natural world, such as lightless heat, always make me a bit concerned.

Elizabeth
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

I stated above

"I use a ceramic heat emitter as my "always on" source of light"

I meant as an "always on" source of HEAT. lol.

Ceramic heat emitters do not emit light.

Sorry for the confusion.

Elizabeth
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin