Hi April,
Gaylynn (my Manager) told me about your post, and she wanted me to respond. She has a Lot of knowlege with Necropsys and we have learned a TON this year. ESPECIALLY with albino boas.
There are a Couple of Senerios that could be the case, but the INBREEDING is not a huge issue, or the reason I would think many had some problems. Of course it is ALWAYS best to outcross as you can. However, the Boas don't have the same chromosomal make up that humans do, and they can't be effect the same from inbreeding. You can go a few generations with few defects, but again, it is always best to get some new bloodlines in there. I HIGHLY doubt this is your problem. I wouldn't hesitate ONE bit to breed those two together. IF you can find a new het mate, that would be better, but I bet the results would be no different other then the babies would have a little outcrossed blood.
The Most important thing to remember is that Albino Boas are a WEAK gene. The babies are very touchy ESPECIALLY when young. Often the mother will produce too much of a yolk for the babies to handel, and sometimes they are born with such big bellies, they don't survive. Othertimes the yolk is very big, and never digests and they get HARD bellies and die. This is VERY COMMON with albino boas. Every year I have bred them I have had 1 or 2 or more die as babies. This year I had more then 60 albinos, and boy did we learn a lot. Many were born with Big Bellies. I had one litter from a Sunglow to a DH sunglow, and I got 13 Sunglows. Of the 13 Sunglows, 10 of them Had HUGE bellies, and did Not make it. We now have a Great technique to get the yolk out of the body to save them. It isn't 100 percent, but it is better then the other result which is almost Certain Death. I also lost 2 of 4 Snows. SAME THING.
Since albinos are a weaker gene, they really need to be started right. Sometimes the odds are against them if they have big bellies. Also, if the Female drops the babies prematurely then the albinos don't have as great of shot. The BEST albino litters from my breedings are those where the female goes 105 and longer P.O.S. Also, the babies that come out with a very little lump in the belly. Those do very well. Remember this too. Once albinos get a good start and they get some good growth to them, they are VERY HARDY. The are almost just as hardy as any boa. However, the Babies are more prone to some problems.
Also, Sometimes you just get a litter out and many of the babies just don't do well or die. Often times this is due to some bad bowel, or a major organ that isn't functioning correctly. This DOES Happen once in awhile. It doesn't have anything to do with the parents. Sometimes you'll get a couple of animals in a litter that just don't do well. That is more common then you think.
My Last point. BABY boas can be VERY tricky ESPECIALLY albinos if you don't get them started right. Last year I learned this lesson. I had a very nice Albino litter from a striped female. Since they were from the stripe gene, I thought they were hardier and I didn't get them feeding Right away like I should have. They were hard to get on track after that. It is VERY important to remember when raising the babies, the FIRST 8 to 10 meals should be meals that won't make a lump. Also, do NOT feed in these first feedings more then every 5 days. I GO 7 days. After the 10 meals, and you can see they are growing and have a hardy and hefty feeding response, you can move up the size of meals and the amount. I still would be VERY careful. Maybe feed them after you see them deficate. That should be every 5 to 8 days. HERE IS MY POINT: there could be a possibility that you just didn't get them going like you can when you should have. (putting NO blame on you). Maybe you had one or two gurge and instead of a daily soak in a small container for an hour or two, you just let them go and fed them again. IF babies don't get a good start, it is pretty easy to say they won't be the best growers.
So, since there are many things it could be, I would just be careful with your next litters, (I'm not saying you aren't). I would make sure you get them set up and ready right away. If they don't shed on schedule (like MANY babies do) then you can offer them food 14 days after they are born. It is important to just get something in the stomach.
I would keep the albinos and maybe take them on a slower feeding schedule. I would go to mice that won't make a lump and feed them every 6 to 7 days. Do that for 5 to 8 weeks, and you'll see if they are meant to be or not. If so, they will get stronger in this period.
SOOOO, what do you do? I would try to breed those two again. It isn't going to hurt anything. IF that litter is bad, then you'll know that those two aren't meant to be. Don't Get discouraged. I know it is EASIER said then done. However, you would be suprised how often this is. Boas aren' that easy. I guess we really are lucky when we get those perfect litters with no problems. This year I had 6 litters with NO slugs. I thought I was in heaven. However, loosing 10 out of 13 possible dominant Sunglows put me right back in my place. LOL
April, I would breed them, and just go with your feelings. There is also some truth in the female being her first litter. Also, Albino females don't thermoregulate like normal boas. They don't know they are Alibno, so they go to sit on the heat and try to maintain 87 to 88 degrees. However, they don't conserve heat because they are albino. They are almost always thermoregulating at 85. WEIRD. I know it is only 2 degrees, but I know that is a HUGE difference over 4 months. It is in Ball pythons and that is only 60 days. I incubate the balls at 91 degrees, and they always hatch on day 48 to 50. So, keep things things in mind. I wish you the best of luck. Just don't hang your head. You'll do better in the future. Take Care, Jeremy
