Welcome to kingsnake.com's message board system. Here you may share and discuss information with others about your favorite reptile and amphibian related topics such as care and feeding, caging requirements, permits and licenses, and more. Launched in 1997, the kingsnake.com message board system is one of the oldest and largest systems on the internet.
If my cages' door frame is 2'tall x 5' long, what length and height would i have the glass cut to to make room for the track? Im going with the wood tracks from Rockler.com and wanted to be sure the glass fits into the tracks.
Thanks all and sorry for the stupid questions.
Cheers
-----
0.0.1 Varanus Salvator (Gator)
0.1.3 Varanus Exanthematicus (Adisa "long term captive" other 3 "yet to be named hatchlings"
2.0 Ferrets (Chaos & Kasha)
1.0 Cat (George)
Have you received the glass track yet? I'm fairly certain it will come with instructions as to how tall the glass needs to be cut.
If it did not come with instructions you'll have to experiment with something cheap. Maybe 1/4" cardboard or corrugated PVC. Just keep cutting it down until the sample piece is easily lifted in and out of the track but is still secure.
If you go with regular plate glass you can always have it trimmed down after the fact. In that case have the glass cut conservatively... can't add material back as far as I know 
If you use tempered glass this option will not be available and you'll need to have the right numbers up front.
Regarding the length of the glass, that all depends on how much or how litte overlap you want in the middle.
Do you totally build the cage, put the tracks in, and then put the glass in? or is it in another order?
also, the cage unit i am buiding is going to be on casters, yet it will have insulation. Should i cut holes in the insulation for the casters? or just attach them to the insulation?
the insulation will be polystyrene, what rating should i use. (my room temp goes from 78 summer high to 63 winter low).
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
0.1 Red blood python (Rhianon)
0.0.1 ball pythons (FELIX!!!!!)
1.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, and Bear)
"Do you totally build the cage, put the tracks in, and then put the glass in? or is it in another order?"
No, that's basically how you do it. You might look at the FineGTPs.com site to get a better idea.
"Also, the cage unit i am buiding is going to be on casters, yet it will have insulation. Should i cut holes in the insulation for the casters? or just attach them to the insulation?"
You'll need to cut holes in the insulation big enough so that the casters have room to swivel around.
"the insulation will be polystyrene, what rating should i use. (my room temp goes from 78 summer high to 63 winter low)."
I would question whether or not you really need insulation on the bottom of the cage. My best guess is that it won't do much unless you're using a UTH under a floor cutout or a thin floor made from plastic or something else. In that case a piece of the foil-covered styrene insulation over that area might be a good idea.
But better yet, put the styrene insulation *inside* of the cage and cover it with vinyl flooring or something else. I did that with my bearded dragon cage, but more to raise the floor rather than to insulate it. This may not work as well when UTH's or heat tape are used.
But all these these are mute points as I don't know the following.
1) What species is this cage for?
2) How large is the cage?
3) What is the cage constructed of?
4) What is the type, placement, and amount of ventilation in the cage?
5) What heat sources will you be using for the cage?
Regardless, the styrene insulation will primarily function to block radiant heat. This is why the foil covered type is best. Insulating reptile cages is a bit different from insulating a house where lots of convective heat sources are used.
In this regard the R value or thickness of the styrene won't have as significant of an effect.
Posted by: chris_harper2 at Fri Sep 3 14:54:43 2004 [ Report Abuse ] [ Email Message ]
"Do you totally build the cage, put the tracks in, and then put the glass in? or is it in another order?"
No, that's basically how you do it. You might look at the FineGTPs.com site to get a better idea.
"Also, the cage unit i am buiding is going to be on casters, yet it will have insulation. Should i cut holes in the insulation for the casters? or just attach them to the insulation?"
You'll need to cut holes in the insulation big enough so that the casters have room to swivel around.
"the insulation will be polystyrene, what rating should i use. (my room temp goes from 78 summer high to 63 winter low)."
I would question whether or not you really need insulation on the bottom of the cage. My best guess is that it won't do much unless you're using a UTH under a floor cutout or a thin floor made from plastic or something else. In that case a piece of the foil-covered styrene insulation over that area might be a good idea.
But better yet, put the styrene insulation *inside* of the cage and cover it with vinyl flooring or something else. I did that with my bearded dragon cage, but more to raise the floor rather than to insulate it. This may not work as well when UTH's or heat tape are used.
But all these these are mute points as I don't know the following.
1) What species is this cage for?
The top section will be immediately used by my blood python Rhianon when it is done. And the bottom section will either be used for another blood or something that will do well in a 4' by 2' by 2'.
2) How large is the cage?
Two sections each measuring 4' by 2' by 2'.
3) What is the cage constructed of?
3/4" plywood back. 1/2" MDF sides, top, middle, bottom.
4) What is the type, placement, and amount of ventilation in the cage?
Ventilation will be a series of drilled holes each about 2" above the substrate level (cypress mulch for my blood) to make adequate air-flow and a humidity level of 50-60%.
5) What heat sources will you be using for the cage?
I will either use heat pads (i like the idea of putting the polystyrene in the cage then covering it, i would make a hole for the heat pad) or a Helix heat panel.
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
0.1 Red blood python (Rhianon)
0.0.1 ball pythons (FELIX!!!!!)
1.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, and Bear)
I'm not sure insulation all around the outside of your cage will help much. Again, reptile enclosures utilize a lot of radiant heat which tends to bounce around like light rays rather than move like typical convective/conductive heat. As such thicker insulation to slow down heat loss is not as effective as we are used to thinking.
If I were you I'd insulate the floors of both cages as I suggested and use an Ultratherm heat pad. Cover insulation and heat pad with vinyl flooring, expanded PVC, or something similar.
You might also put some of the insulation on the ceiling of the top cage.
I do not think it will do much on the sides of the cage other than take away from the looks of the cage.
It probably would help on the back of the cage.
Regarding the ventilation, be sure to seal the inside of the holes you will be drilling. You do not want your MDF to absorb any residual moisture.
You might just look for some ventilated ports that have a 3/4" deep flange. Again, I believe some are posted on the finegtps site. The flange protects the inside of the MDF from moisture.
Would pegboard (whatever the stuff with the holes is called) be better for insulation as it would be easier to seal off (liquid nails to attach, caulk to seal)? or would sealing the holes (would i just used the polyurethane i've been using?) be better?
do you know what temp ultratherm heat pads heat to?
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
0.1 Red blood python (Rhianon)
0.0.1 ball pythons (FELIX!!!!!)
1.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, and Bear)
>>Would pegboard (whatever the stuff with the holes is called) be better for insulation as it would be easier to seal off (liquid nails to attach, caulk to seal)? or would sealing the holes (would i just used the polyurethane i've been using?) be better?
>>
Pegboard won't have much insulative value.
To seal your drilled holes you could probably squeeze polyurethane in there. Otherwise there might be rubber gromets or small pieces of PVC pipe that could be glued in.
I still think a true vent or PVC grate endcap would be best.
>>do you know what temp ultratherm heat pads heat to?
95* max, I believe. Probably not enough for a blood python in a 63* room.
-----
1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
PVC grate endcap? rubber grommets? can you explain those?
Do you think the ultratherms would get to 90 degrees, if they had to go through the vinyl flooring, 1-2" of cypress mulch, in a 70-75 degree room? Do you have experience with the T-rex Cobra heat pads? if so, would they be able to heat to 90 degrees under the above conditions?
also about space heaters, do they come with reliable thermostats? or would having a thermsotat/rheostat attached to it be better?
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
0.1 Red blood python (Rhianon)
0.0.1 ball pythons (FELIX!!!!!)
1.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, and Bear)
>>PVC grate endcap? rubber grommets? can you explain those?
The PVC endcaps are 4" round PVC fittings that have a bunch of slits in them. They are essential drain covers to keep stuff out of floor drains.
There are also register covers you buy for your home. There are some nice ones.
Gromets are rubber plugs with a hole through them for cords, etc.
>>Do you think the ultratherms would get to 90 degrees, if they had to go through the vinyl flooring, 1-2" of cypress mulch, in a 70-75 degree room? Do you have experience with the T-rex Cobra heat pads? if so, would they be able to heat to 90 degrees under the above conditions?
The very floor might get that hot but the python would have to burrow down to get to the heat. And even then any UTH would not do much to heat the air. It really sounds like you're a good candidate for a radiant heat panel.
>>also about space heaters, do they come with reliable thermostats? or would having a thermsotat/rheostat attached to it be better?
I have a new oil-filled radiator style heater. The built in temp. control is better than my old one but still not very good. I run it through a high wattage thermostat.
For a small amount of supplemental heat the built in device is probably fine. For maintaining a warm room an additional thermostat is a good idea.
Again, you seem to be the ideal candidate for a RHP. If money is a concern a light bulb with one of the guards made for the herp trade would also work.
-----
1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
I am going to be expanding my collection this year (hopefully another blood around my birthday or christmas, and a little albino ball python project [1.0 hets, 0.1-3 50/66% possible hets]). As i really hate light bulbs for heating cages especially cages where humidity is key, would it be cheaper to get a space heater than it would to use RHP's for the cages? i am assuming it would. Where do you get a thermostat rated to the 1500 watts most space heaters use? how much does it cost?
also, does the dremel rotary tool have an attachment that can cut through 3/4" plywood or similar thickness wood?
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
0.1 Red blood python (Rhianon)
0.0.1 ball pythons (FELIX!!!!!)
1.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, and Bear)
>>I am going to be expanding my collection this year... would it be cheaper to get a space heater than it would to use RHP's for the cages?
Yes, it certainly would. If you really want to save money then use an oil-filled radiator style heater for the room and Flexwatt for the gradiants. I'm not very experienced with Flexwatt so post another thread if you need advice on its use.
But even then many would make the argument that RHP's are the ideal way to heat herps.
>>Where do you get a thermostat rated to the 1500 watts most space heaters use? how much does it cost?
I was lucky to find a cheap one at a feed store. It has worked well for years. I think Rancos and the Johnson & Johnson thermostats have 1500 watt versions.
Some of the other popular herp thermostats can be upraded to handle more wattage.
>>also, does the dremel rotary tool have an attachment that can cut through 3/4" plywood or similar thickness wood?
I don't think so. A dremel does not produce anywhere near the torque of a high speed rotary saw and those can barely handle 3/4" plywood.
-----
1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
Okay, i will definately look into a space heater and high wattage thermostat. How much do space heaters usually cost?
Also this is about Randy's thread about his little display thing (if you don't know what i'm talking about click here) what is a "clear coat"? is it an epoxy? or just another layer of clear acryllic paint?
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
0.1 Red blood python (Rhianon)
0.0.1 ball pythons (FELIX!!!!!)
1.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, and Bear)
I think I paid $50 for my most recent space heater. It was on sale, though, as it was the beginning of the summer.
Clear coat can mean a lot of different things. I never did ask Randy exactly what he'd be using.
-----
1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
What would you use to clear coat that if you were to make an enclosure type set up?
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
0.1 Red blood python (Rhianon)
0.0.1 ball pythons (FELIX!!!!!)
2.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, Bear, and Tony)
would the weight of an adult female blood (30 lbs) cause the MDF to sag (attached with screws, and liquid nails)?
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
0.1 Red blood python (Rhianon)
0.0.1 ball pythons (FELIX!!!!!)
2.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, Bear, and Tony)
>>would the weight of an adult female blood (30 lbs) cause the MDF to sag (attached with screws, and liquid nails)?
1/2" MDF probably would sag a bit. Also, 1/2" MDF can be hard to screw into and get the screws to hold.
I know it's cheap stuff, but 3/4" plywood might be better.
For clear coat in a blood python cage I would use an oil-based polyurethane on the walls and ceiling.
I would cover the floor and first few inches of the cage walls with something more durable, probably a plastic of some sort.
-----
1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
s
-----
0.1 "Tremper" looking Albino Leopard gecko (Lex)
0.0.1 tiger crested gecko (peachs)
0.1 Red blood python (Rhianon)
0.0.1 ball pythons (FELIX!!!!!)
2.1 Feral cats that we adopted (Fuzzy, Bear, and Tony)
>>Have you received the glass track yet? I'm fairly certain it will come with instructions as to how tall the glass needs to be cut.
>>
>>If it did not come with instructions you'll have to experiment with something cheap. Maybe 1/4" cardboard or corrugated PVC. Just keep cutting it down until the sample piece is easily lifted in and out of the track but is still secure.
>>
>>If you go with regular plate glass you can always have it trimmed down after the fact. In that case have the glass cut conservatively... can't add material back as far as I know
>>
>>If you use tempered glass this option will not be available and you'll need to have the right numbers up front.
>>
>>Regarding the length of the glass, that all depends on how much or how litte overlap you want in the middle.
Hi Chris,
No , i have not purchased the glass track as of yet. I'm still in the process of assembling the frame. I do plan to go with regular plate glass though but hopefully wont have to get any additional cuts made if the tracks have the instructions.
Thanks and cheers
-----
0.0.1 Varanus Salvator (Gator)
0.1.3 Varanus Exanthematicus (Adisa "long term captive" other 3 "yet to be named hatchlings"
2.0 Ferrets (Chaos & Kasha)
1.0 Cat (George)
I have my eye on that real wood product from Rockler for my next project. Please take a picture of it for me in it's raw form (un-stained) if you can.
Also, I just looked at your signature (BTW, how does one develop a kingsnake sig?) and saw the two species you keep. I'd suggest posting a question on the monitor forum regarding what type of glass to use for such large animals.
I'm not confident that a strong tail slap from either species won't crack plate glass. The only time I built a large monitor cage was at a zoo and I had a budget for some high dollar glass. I did not even bother to research it, I just got the good stuff
The monitor forum is a great source for cage building tips. Like any other group of animals where commericial caging is not readily available, the hobbyists have learned to be resourceful.
Hi Chris
I'll make sure to take pics of it for ya and post them.
Also if you go into User Preferences and look at the bottom of the page, theres a space for a signature line.
I also frequent the monitor forum and find that most people who use glass go for the quarter inch thick stuff. I'm not sure about the difference between plate and tempered but i'll be sure to ask so thanks for the heads up.
Cheers
-----
0.0.1 Varanus Salvator (Gator)
0.1.3 Varanus Exanthematicus (Adisa "long term captive" other 3 "yet to be named hatchlings"
2.0 Ferrets (Chaos & Kasha)
1.0 Cat (George)
>>Also if you go into User Preferences and look at the bottom of the page, theres a space for a signature line.
Now I've got quotes listed in my replies as well. For as much time as I spend here you'd think I'd know some of this stuff.
-----
1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala (Silver/Yellow)
3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
2.1 Gonyosoma janseni (Black)
Help, tips & resources quick links
Manage your user and advertising accounts
Advertising and services purchase quick links
