Reptile & Amphibian Forums

i have a baby albino corn that i have been shoving mouse tails down. (5 in all) how many more till it should be taking pinks, he still refuses them.
thanks

I've been force feeding rat tails to 3 baby boas for the last several weeks. I finally force fed two out of the three small pinkies and they kept them down, but the third refused and regurgitated his rat tail. It's frustrating not knowing what else to do...

I had to force feed my red albino (3 grams at 1 month old) tails for 2 months. Then I tried a runt pinkie newborn. BAM!! Now he can eat pinks on his own and is almost back to his siblings size. Just be patient. I was so tempted to put him down. Then my son looks at me with huge green eyes and I give in every time!!! Best of luck!!!

1. First, how long are you allowing for the snake to willingly eat when prey is offered (ten minutes, thirty, an hour?) before checking on it?
2. What type of prey (i.e. pinky? live or f/t? scented?)?
3. How are you offering the prey (i.e. leaving it the cage or with the snake in a small container, watching over it waiting, waving it in front of the snake or touching it with the prey)?
4. How long between 'feedings' are you offering?
5. Are you handling the snake?

Force feeding is very stressful to snakes and should only be used as a last resort. In my experience, young snakes can be shy feeders and won't eat if you stand over them watching or continually open the cage or container to check on them frequently. Typically I put the snake and the prey in a small container with air holes drilled in (the Ziplock or Glad disposable containers are great) and leave the room. I wait at least an hour before checking on the snake, disturbing it as little as possible when I do so (another reason I like the clear or semi-transparent containers). If it hasn't eaten the pinky in that first hour's time, I leave the snake & pinky in the container overnight. Many snakes, especially young ones, can be intimidated by prey that moves too much or repeatedly touches them. I find it best to just leave the prey and snake alone. If I'm using f/t and think it needs to appear 'alive' I make slower gentle movements towards and away from the snake but not touching it or only touching the rear end of the snake if I'm attempting to elicit a defensive strike. Touching the head or upper body often only makes the snake that much more reluctant to feed. If the snake still refuses the initial prey I offered (I always offer f/t first), then I will get live pinks to try out using the same method - leave it & the snake in a small container and leave the room.

I also do not handle reluctant feeders until they've eaten several meals consecutively on their own. Snakes need time to acclimate to new surroundings and it's usually best to leave them in peace for a week or so until they settle in. I find this especially true of very young or wc individuals. Any new snakes to my collection, regardless of age, are given at least one week to settle in undisturbed. I offer food after that time has elapsed. New hatchlings or newborn snakes usually need to go through their first shed before being offered food as many are still absorbing yolk in their stomachs. I offer prey every 7-10 days thereafter. The only time these methods have not worked for me were with my male WC Solomon Island ground boa...but these guys are known for their feeding difficulties as neonates anyway.

Hope this helps.

Raven

It depends on your snake.It depends on if it is stressed out or just a slow starter.As long as you keep your corn in a quite spot(no vibrations)and you leave it alone (no handling)it should come out of it.When is another story.You might upgrade to a rat tail or pinky head.Ive seen Marcel use a chick leg before.Just dont give up.I know the frustration you feel Ive been there and done it,more than once.Your a step ahead in the fact it's not a regurger...Paul