Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Does anyone know how much clearance I should allow for lights, specifically mercury vapor ones? I have allowed 8inches in my cage design, but I am beginning to worry that the lights and foxtures will not fit in that space. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help,

Elizabeth
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

>>Does anyone know how much clearance I should allow for lights, specifically mercury vapor ones? I have allowed 8inches in my cage design, but I am beginning to worry that the lights and foxtures will not fit in that space. Any ideas?

LOL. I commented on this in my post re. math below.

I have another idea for you to consider. Sorry for my fickleness, but I often think of cage design in terms of what is most versatile.

Instead of using my false ceiling design, you could skip it to save money and to not have clearance concerns with your lights.

Since this cage houses Uros you don't have much worry about them burning themselves on the lamps and won't need the screen barrier for protection.

I only included it in my cages so they could someday house other species. And because I already have the frame stock to build it.

Without the false-ceiling you could instead have a solid back and put in some very cheap ventilation behind the lights.

The lights and heating elements would attach directly to the ceiling which would be the floor of the cage above.

They would still be somewhat hidden behind the upper lip of the cage.

If for now you found a light that was 8" tall, it would be hidden. If you later found a light that was 9" tall, only an inch or so would be visible.

Again, sorry for my fickleness, but I really think this might be a better idea for Uros. It would also provide a heck of a lot more support for the sand.
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1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

I have some paranoia regarding lights hanging from the "roof" of cages without screens. Maybe you can alleve some of my concern.

I am always afraid that the bulbs might shatter, break, or otherwise dislodge, hence falling to the ground below where the Uro could get hurt. The screen seems like a safety measure. I have noticed that many people put the lights directly into the enclosures though.

Am I worried about nothing?

Elizabeth
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

No, you're not worried about "nothing". And like I always say, you're own peace of mind is more important that what any "expert" has had success with or hasn't required.

But with that said, I do think a true false-ceiling (FC)is overkill for your needs. Maybe look into wire bulb guards or something.

You can still go ahead with your cage without the FC. Worst case scenario is that you have to fabricate something for whatever bulb(s) you choose. Maybe even a simple screen taped to a typical aluminum shrowd made for heat lamps.

One last suggestion. Again, sorry for my fickle nature.

If you do indeed rule out a FC *and* 48" lights then I might go ahead and tweek the total length of the cage again.

Now I would probably make the total length 48". Why? So you can simply buy some 1/4" birch or luan plywood and tack it onto the back of the cage. This will still offer a lot of structural integrity to the cage but will save weight and money.

Are you having this wood cut for you or what?
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1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Oh yes, I am DEFINITELY having the wood cut for me.

I was actually just working out exactly how to do the back. I think your suggestion regarding the total length being 48" is a good one, then just have the front pieces cut to the proper length given the 3/4in sides. I am thinking about tacking a small ledge where the "false ceiling" would have been and getting some of the portable screen windows that expand and contract to fit a space. Then I could just set them up there, to protect the Uros in case a bulb breaks or soemthing like that. They would not prevent escape, but that really isn't an issue in this situation, nor really in the forseeable future. lol.

My only concern at the moment, because I am feeling pretty good about this now, is how to make the cages support enough weight. Especially with how long they are. I think I am going to stop into a home improvement store and see if they have any idea. It seems like some 1x1in cross bars under the floors would do it, but I am not positive.

Keep the ideas coming. I don't think you are fickle, it is just part of the creative process! Well, that and figuring out what I need! lol.

Elizabeth
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

>>I am thinking about tacking a small ledge where the "false ceiling" would have been and getting some of the portable screen windows that expand and contract to fit a space.

That's a good idea. Allow me a counter-suggestion. Maybe just buy some of those metal corner angles and screw them in at the appropriate level. That way you can adjust the height if you go to a taller bulb.

But keep in mind you'll need a very tall upper lip to always have the bulbs hidden and protected by screen.

>>My only concern at the moment, because I am feeling pretty good about this now, is how to make the cages support enough weight.

I think some wood stock tacked underneath the floors is a good idea. The 1/4" back won't offer much support for a cleat like this but I think it will still work. Six casters will help a lot. Make sure one is in the middle-back of the bottom and it will prevent deflection from downward forces. The 1/4" plywood will do the rest.

Are you're having it cut at a home improvement center? I'm not sure I'd recommend that for your project.

A cabinet speciality store can do extremely accurate cuts AND they will stock a higher quality birch plywood than Home Depot, Menards, or Lowes.

Another point about the cutting. Simple math would suggest that the length of your floors and ceilings will need to be 46.5" to account for the 3/4" thick sides.

Well modern laminated plywood is actually a bit thinner than 3/4", meaning your 1/4" back-piece will overhand the edges slightly.

Due to this I suggest cutting your shelves more to like 46 & 5/8" or 46 & 3/4". This will give a total length of slightly more than 48" and allow you some "slop" when tacking on the 1/4" back.

If I remember your most recent design, you should be able to complete this project with two sheets of 3/4" plywood and one sheet of 1/4" plywood.

Then crown moulding, some thinner moulding, and two corner rosettes.
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1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)